joshwilson3

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iTrader: (14)

the calipers are only 13bux? Sounds a bit low. they are just re-manned stock calipers, nothing special, only thing you need are new crush washers and the pins from the existing calipers, unless they are shot, they get new ones.

joshwilson3

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iTrader: (14)

yes, they crush washer go on the banjo bolts, usually a good idea to change them when doing this.

joshwilson3

I guess I'll have to ask Autozone or Napa to see if they have some as Autozone doesn't list any. But I'm guessing it must be a generic part.

I'll have to pull out my Haynes to see if they've got the torque specs on the caliper and brake line bolts.

Oh, and how do you tell if your rotors are worn? That might be something good to check.

joshwilson3

Or are the Cardone rebuilt calipers at Advance better? It looks like Cardone paints their calipers from the pics. I had read somewhere that Fenco (Duralast) blasts the calipers they rebuild, and it takes off an antirust coating, and they don't recoat them. Which means they will rust.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The AZ calipers are fine. Last set I got came with new caliper bolts. If the calipers don't come with the copper banjo washers, and they should, ask the counterman and they'll have them in a generic bin somewhere.

I'd recommend new hoses while you're there if yours haven't been replaced. I've had hoses that were so clogged fluid wouldn't flow thru even with the hose disconnected from the caliper.

The reman calipers will come with a light oil coating that can be cleaned off if you want to paint them. I'd recommend POR15 followed by your favorite top coat. Don't expect any finish provided by the re-manufacturer to last any longer than a day after install.

Your existing rotors may can be turned-if there's enough clearance left. If you need new, I'd stay away from rotors that come in a plain white box. Pay the extra for a name-brand. The metal here sees some high temps and is susceptible to warping.

joshwilson3

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naf

iTrader: (7)

Cardone will be fine. All of the remans will be pretty much the same. I run the parts store ceramic pads on mine but they're getting near $50 a pair. I've run the semi-metallics and they're fine but seem a little squeakier. I tried the Hawks HPS for about a year but felt they were too 'grabby'. If $ is an issue go with a set of mid-grade semi-metallic pads.

The outside of the caliper will rust but that won't hurt it. No worry over the piston unless is sits for a looonnnnng time.

Last set of rotors I got were Brembos from Tirerack at ~$50 each but I note that they don't carry them any longer. Look for raybestos, AC Delco or wagner if you can find them cheap. Most of the parts stores will carry two grades of white box rotors. In many cases the parts will be identical and only the warranty is different.

Why not just replace the one hose you know is old? Seems like a lot of effort to maybe save $13.

And if you get the stuff at AZ: space out your purchases to get as many reward points as possible. Buy a set of pads today, 2 calipers tomorrow, etc.

joshwilson3

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naf

iTrader: (7)

I prefer ceramic, but opinions, I'm sure, vary.

When you swap the calipers I've always found it easiest to flush the old fluid through the hoses before connecting them until it runs clear (ALWAYS ENSURING THAT THE MC DOESN'T RUN DRY). Then I pre-fill the calipers with fluid before installing, using a hammer to tap them as I fill to knock out most of the air bubbles. Attach everything and bleeding is much easier.

You can 'rent' a mityvac brake bleeder from AZ or one of the others. A trick when using it is to dab some teflon sealant on the bleeder screws to reduce the amount of air the vac pump will pull from around the threads while it's sucking out brake fluid. You can also use the vac pump to suck out some of the crud in the bottom of your MC reservoir. Depending how dirty your fluid is count on one or two of the big bottles of fluid. Bleed your rears too if your pedal is still spongy.

Just don't let the MC reservoir get dry. Once air gets in there no amount of bleeding with it installed will clear it.

I'd try to turn your existing rotors. Some parts stores will do it or refer you to a shop that will.

joshwilson3

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naf

iTrader: (7)

You can use a small funnel or just dribble the fluid out of the can.

I usually let the hoses gravity bleed while I'm working. I've use a golf tee stuck in the line but have better luck with a short piece of rubber hose capped with a bolt on one end.

The mityvac should have come with a plastic reservoir that goes between the hand pump and the suction end of the hose. The plastic reservoir fills up with fluid.

You may be fine using your current rotors without turning them as long as you're not now experiencing any shimmying when the brakes are applied. It can be a pain to pull them then find a way to drop them off at a shop and go to pick them up later only to find that the shop hasn't turned them yet and the guy that runs the machine has gone for the day.

If your brakes are smooth even when lightly applied, I'd re-use them.

joshwilson3

They said they don't rent the plastic mighty vac with the bleeder stuff. Just the metal mighty vac.

Do you know the torque specs for the two caliper bolts and the brake line bolt?

And is there any tricks at installing the caliper on the rotors? It looks like the worn out pads are touching the rotors. I just wondered if there would be enough of a gap with the new pads to slide them on the rotors, or do you need a special tool to put the caliper on?

joshwilson3

I went ahead and got the Cardone calipers and Wagner ThermoQuiet Semi-Metallic brake pads

joshwilson3

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joshwilson3

I started to just go ahead and flush the rear of the brakes. Then do the fronts when I change the calipers. I was on the RR, and I was using a Mityvac to create a vacuum. And I was keeping an eye on the back half of the reservoir. But I ended up running it all the way dry on the RR. As I guess it pulls brake fluid front the FRONT of the reservoir, NOT the rear that I was keeping an eye on.

So, I went and picked up a gallon of Dot 3. And finished using the 32 ounce I had and probably put over half a gallon going back and forth on the rears. Tommorrow I'll do the fronts when I change the calipers. So, hopefully all the air is out of the system. I did try to keep the vacuum at 20-30 psi. I did keep getting air bubbles like when I did the Vette before, but my guess is it is pulling air from the bleeder screw threads.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Did you figure out how the clips go on the back of the pad that goes against the caliper piston? The old ones should have had them. A little dab of grease on the back of the pads, where they touch the calipers, should help keep them from squeaking.

If you ran the MC too far down no amount of bleeding it will clear any air in there. It may need to be removed and bench bled. When you're done check your pedal feel and if it's spongy suck it up and do it right.

Using some teflon sealant around the bleeder screws will lessen the amount of air that gets past but won't stop it all.

joshwilson3

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joshwilson3

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naf

iTrader: (7)

A new, or reman, MC should come with the bench bleeder fittings and a short length of hose. Make sure these pieces are in the box. There are several thread 'how tos' on bench bleeding. After bench bleeding and re-installing the MC, you'll of course have to re-bleed the brakes.

Just place a little grease on the back of the pad where it comes into contact with the piston or caliper - for the outboard one. You don't need much, just a light smear.

The outboard pad just slides in.

joshwilson3

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joshwilson3

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naf

iTrader: (7)

The brake hose is supposed to go on only one way. If it's flipped over it will leak. You can look at it and tell which side is supposed to seal to the caliper. Run that line back the way it was.

Use the teflon sealant on the threads to help with the air getting through, the thread pitch doesn't matter.

joshwilson3

I'm going to go ahead and put new hoses on.