How hard is to tap the front spindles for a WilWood type bracket? I read the instructions and the drill and tap seems like it would easy enough (I have a $60 die/tap set already). I'm a little concerned over the 2nd drilling to countersink the hole though. I don't have a drill press so I would be trying to do it with a normal power drill. I'm hoping it's manageable. I'm trying to keep on a budget of $500. That's all the wife would agree on.

 

What kit you looking in to

 

Grabbed an old JFZ Kit from eBay. Seller told me it was a WilWood 10.75" HD Kit. After I bought it he dropped off the face of the Earth and won't answer emails. Turns out it's not a WilWood but a JFZ 12.2" x 1.25" Rotor with 4 1.75" piston calipers. Which I like much more than the WilWood kit they make for our cars. I wasn't overly excited about there thin 0.81" rotors. I then bought a spare set of spindles which I can modify over this Summer and drop them in when I'm done. :-D

 

When hand drilling the holes I found that the drill bit wanted to grab and twist the drill. Which in turn (bad pun) tried to break my wrists. I started off by trying to do the mod with the spindles still on the car. But after the drill bit grabbing occurred I removed them and did it in a drill press. Night and day difference.

RBob.

 

I did it off-car with a hand drill. A drill press would have made the job a bunch easier.

JamesC

 

Since the cast iron is so soft, you need to make the hole bigger in little steps. You will get a cleaner and straiter hole that way too. Get a set of bits in 1/32" increments and go up one size at a time. make sure you know the tap your going to use and have the exact size bit stated on the tap. Level the spindle on a work bench with pieces of wood, put some oil on the bit and in the hole. put the drill on the hole and look at it from 2 points 90 degrees from each other so its strait. If you go gently in small steps the drill wont get caught as easily and the hole will tend to guide the drill. Whan you tap do the same, strait in with oil. Starting the tap is most critical part. Keep it oiled and advance it about 1/4 - 1/2 turn each time then reverse. Stop every couple complete turns, remove it and clean the chips from the hole. re-oil and start again.

 

Sat down and did my normal parts inventory. I'm missing a few bolts and nuts, but nothing a trip to a hardware store or 2 for new grade 8 wouldn't fix. JFZ Kit looks like it might be different than the WilWood type afterall. The bracket isn't countersinked for the bracket to spindle bolts and the bracket itself doesn't allow for a 3/8" bolt in that hole. I guess I'll have to go back out into the garage and see if the OEM bolts works. It would be nice just to get longer ones. So much of a pain doing this stuff without directions (just reviewing the WilWood directions since designs are similar).

 

OEM bolt sizes won't work. There way to loose in the bracket. I guess I'll be making a parts run for more bolts. I also checked the Bracket to Caliper bolts there way to long. They actually grab on the rotor sliding the caliper on and off during mock up. I'll be replacing those as well. Probably the reason why the guy sold the kit in the first place. Oh well nice brake kit upgrade for cheap once I track down stuff. I haven't tapped the spindles yet since I need to figure out the right size bolts, but here are some pics of the progress. Sorry for them being so grainy I had to use my cell phone I couldn't find the digital camera.

Modified spindle (using a hacksaw... god I'm tired... 1 done 1 to go).



Test mounted in a 15" draglite rim. It's a little tight and it does rub barely on the outside lip of the caliper, but a small spacer should make it work just fine. I'd say 12.2" rotor is the largest size that would fit with 15" rims. As you can tell the caliper is pretty darn close.
I have 16" OEM rims right now on the car so that should work fine.

 

Just figured I would show the finished tapped spindles. Thanks to everyone who provided advice. I think it took longer to trim down the spindles with a hack saw than cut the new threads. Overall they came out well only one was barely off so I had to enlarge the bracket bolt hole by 1/8" or so. Time to remove the mockup bolts (way to long), degrease and paint the spindles.

 

Hey looks good did you use grade 8 hardware? ?

 

Actually I couldn't find any replacements for the 1.75" threads depth. The one by the strut mount. I found a Grade 8 for the other one though. I'm waiting to see if Menards ever restocks there Grade 8 for the 1.5" length and I'll use that since I couldn't cut the threads any further in anyways due to the tap not being any longer. The stress should be put on it sideways pulling it against the spindle not trying to pull it out so I don't think that's a big set back. Worse case I'll use one grade 8 the other grade 5. For now I'm only using Grade 5 for mockups. I still need to degrease and paint. I'm thinking an aluminum engine enamel I had laying around might look nice. I'm in search of an option for the caliper to line connection. I'm hoping if I take the caliper into the auto parts store I can get them to find a banjo bolt with new crush washers to fit it to the OEM lines. I already have the complete aftermarket stainless braided set so I don't really think it's necessary to upgrade to Wilwoods $60 front set.