bleed brakes
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 222
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From: Toronto
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
bleed brakes
hi, i just replaced my old rubber lines with some stainless steel lines, my question is how can i bleed the brakes by myself? Thanks
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: bleed brakes
Put the MityVac on the other jar fitting, open bleeder, and pull some vacuum. Quick, easy, and effective.
RBob.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: bleed brakes
I tried the speed bleeders. Total disaster from my experience; I wouldn't recommend them. That said, I've read where other members (which is why I bought them) have had good luck.
JamesC
JamesC
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 116
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From: Grande Prairie, Ab
Car: 1987 Z28 / 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 LG4 / 305 LB9
Transmission: T5 5spd
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / 3.08
Re: bleed brakes
Find a buddy, g/f, wife, someone with a foot... to lend you a hand pumping the brakes.
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From: Chasing Electrons
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: bleed brakes
I just get a 2ft piece of tubing from hardware store, and a glass mason jar. The tubing needs to be flexible and fit tight on the bleeder valve. Fill the jar 1/2 way with fresh brake fluid, stick the tube in the jar and make sure the end should be submersed in the jar, attach other end to bleeder. Remove top from the resevoir, but leave it laying on top - when the pedal is pushed, the fluid will come out the top of the resevior and make a mess. Then loosen bleeder, and go push brake pedal several times, very slowly steadily and gently as far as it will travel, then release slowly. Check resevoir and refill if necessary, repeat several times. then tighten bleeder and move to next wheel.
Start at pass rear, the driver rear, then pass front, then driver front. You want to press brake pedal on each wheel at least 20 times.
The tube submerged in the jar of fluid allows the air to pass out, but when pedal is released it's not sucking in any air back since the tube end is submerged. You have to do each wheel alot, but it's always worked for me.
Start at pass rear, the driver rear, then pass front, then driver front. You want to press brake pedal on each wheel at least 20 times.
The tube submerged in the jar of fluid allows the air to pass out, but when pedal is released it's not sucking in any air back since the tube end is submerged. You have to do each wheel alot, but it's always worked for me.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,449
Likes: 8
From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: bleed brakes
You know I had a very similar experience to you. Mine just leaked all over the place. Now I bleed the old fashioned way. Mine were the Russell bleeders. I have heard the Earls and Solobleeders are better.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: bleed brakes
I just get a 2ft piece of tubing from hardware store, and a glass mason jar. The tubing needs to be flexible and fit tight on the bleeder valve. Fill the jar 1/2 way with fresh brake fluid, stick the tube in the jar and make sure the end should be submersed in the jar, attach other end to bleeder. Remove top from the resevoir, but leave it laying on top - when the pedal is pushed, the fluid will come out the top of the resevior and make a mess. Then loosen bleeder, and go push brake pedal several times, very slowly steadily and gently as far as it will travel, then release slowly. Check resevoir and refill if necessary, repeat several times. then tighten bleeder and move to next wheel.
Start at pass rear, the driver rear, then pass front, then driver front. You want to press brake pedal on each wheel at least 20 times.
The tube submerged in the jar of fluid allows the air to pass out, but when pedal is released it's not sucking in any air back since the tube end is submerged. You have to do each wheel alot, but it's always worked for me.
Start at pass rear, the driver rear, then pass front, then driver front. You want to press brake pedal on each wheel at least 20 times.
The tube submerged in the jar of fluid allows the air to pass out, but when pedal is released it's not sucking in any air back since the tube end is submerged. You have to do each wheel alot, but it's always worked for me.
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