87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Its actually not the same caliper. The Wilwood kits include the small Dynalite caliper. The kit we are talking about here uses the mid sized Superlite caliper. The Wilwood kit also includes the much smaller 11 x 0.81" rotors vs the 13 x 1.1" rotors. Overall it looks to be about a 15% reduction in braking torque, 50% reduction in thermal mass, and a 58% reduction in pad volume.

d00012

Regardless of the size difference, they are essentially installed the same way. But thanks for being understanding and helpful. Your comparison numbers are irrelevant to the install questions I asked, like some kind of one-up-manship, completly pointless. And you didn't really answer my questions, just repeated what I already know from reading the thread, hence the questions in the first place. But allow me to reiterate more thoroughly; for your Wilwood proportioning valve, which one did you use, or recommend for my caliper and stock master cylinder? Your brake lines, were they replaced completly, or just the flex line, what length are they, fitting size?

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

The brake torque ratios front to rear are very relevant to proportioning valve selection. In fact stopping the car depends on it more than any other component in the system. Based on my calculations, your system will produce around 3.7% more brake torque to the front wheels than stock. So you will need a similar improvement to the rear brake torque to keep the OEM balance. Now that assumes you want to keep the OEM balance. Now these cars already have a bad front heavy bias, IMO. You brake kit will make that worse. So I would recommend an adjustable valve. Pretty much any brand should work fine.

I use the old style Wilwood, like in the picture below. The threads in the valve are 1/8" NPT. The valves came with two 1/8" NPT to 3/16" Inverted Flare fittings. On top of that, you will need 3/16" IF to 1/4" IF adapters since our OEM rear lines are 1/4".

For my installation, and most others here, there is no need to modify the front hard lines. Ed's kit includes a hose to connect the caliper to the factory hard line. The Wilwood calipers are tapped for 1/8" NPT threads. Ed uses a 1/8" NPT to -3 AN adapter screwed in the caliper. Then his hose has a 90 degree -3 fitting on one side and the factory style flare fitting on the other. I thought Wilwood provided hoses with their kits??? Looks like part number 220-6856 according to Wilwood's website.

d00012

Thank you.

No, the kit didn't come with any hoses. Would have been nice, but they aren't too expensive.

ASE doc

An update to this old thread. I've been running the 4 piston Wilwood,, 13 inch rotor kit from flynbyeperformance for two summer's now. I installed their LS1 kit in the rear for a 4 wheel upgrade of the car's brakes. After putting some miles on these brakes I am very pleased with them. To think that I ran this car with 400+ hp and 14" vacuum on the stock brakes for so long seems inconceivable now. I remember being really nervous when I would need to slow down quickly. Sometimes I think I got lucky as there was no way I could stop the car in time. Now I have total confidence in my brakes. These things will practically plant the car on command. I do get a bit of squeal from the front when the brakes are hot. I don't mind it.

ASE doc

87350IROC, If I already asked you this before, I apologize. What brand of front A arms are you running? I've been looking for the adjustable units and couldn't find them.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

This is great to hear. I feel the same exact way right now... I am going to be installing the same brake setup you have. My brakes make me rather nervous.

myroc86

Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android

myroc86

^^ Damn android app..Anyways, was wondering the same thing. Has anyone talked to Ed? Hasnt responded to me on the stuff I ordered over a month ago.


Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I am using the Spohn del-sphere A-arms. I have had no issues with them. The adjustability was nice for me to perfectly center the wheel in the wheel well for taller tires.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Excellent, my thoughts as well.

ASE doc

87350IROC, thanks for the info on the A-arms. I was on the Spohn site but couldn't find adjustable A-arms. I'll go back and look again. The adjustment seems like it would be a good thing. Especially if I decide to go with a tubular X-member. I have heard of issues with the front wheel setback coming out a little different.

Working with Ed can be a practice in patience. He was a very busy man the last time I spoke with him. It took me months to get my stuff and I was anxious too. But at some point I just decided to leave the man be and trust him. All of my parts arrived as promised, he said that he was behind on orders and the man doesn't lie. Believe me, you will get your stuff and it will be awesome. Take your time and do a good install and you will be so glad that you made the choice to go with Fly N' Bye.

I may have said this before, but to get a bolt on kit with 13" rotors and 4 piston calipers, there just isn't any other option. Ed is the only person on the planet who cares enough to have engineered brakes like this for our cars. So, we either wait patiently for him to do his thing, or we can always take our chances with Baer or Brembo or going directly to Wilwood.

I visited Wilwood's site back when I was researching brake options and I honestly don't know how Ed does this kit for $1000 without loosing his butt. Just for the calipers alone you are half the cost of the kit. Then modifying the spindles to fit and cutting a set of new rotors down into hubs, including new bearings and seals. Then add the braided brake hoses and hardware that the kit includes and you will kill $1000 real quick and spend alot of time trying to make it work. The LS1 rear kit that I ordered was just as well executed as the front kit was. My hat's off to Ed Miller and Fly N' Bye. We are lucky to have him.