Kendol

The poweradder board hasn't been the best place to ask brake questions so I thought I would post them here. I really wish there was a thread that listed out all the necessary parts and procedures to successfully perform a power to manual brakes swap.

The car is a 92Z with disc brakes at all for corners. I am still using the original GM metric calipers that came on the car and have done the following:

1. Purchased a Ed Quay power to manual 3rdgen conversion kit. Unfortunately, it came with the Strange Engineering large bore (1.125" bore P.N. B3359) dual master cylinder. The Strange spec sheet shows the smaller bore (1.034" bore P.N. B3360) master cylinder should be used on applications that utilize 1-2 piston calipers up front. The kit, however, did come with a modified brake pedal with the appropriate mods to move the MC push rod up 2" on the brake pedal.

2. I fabbed new brake lines to accomodate the MC outlets facing the opposite side as the stocker. Ran same size lines as stock to the combo valve.

3. Bled the brakes but forgot to bench bleed the MC. Took a drive and the brakes were hard and spongy. The end result was an unnerving drive with very little braking power.

4. Did a search and discovered the MC bore size issue and decided to order the new smaller bore MC from Strange Engineering (P.N. B3360).

5. Bench bled the new MC twice before installing it on the car.

6. Modified the combo valve by removing the spring and piston. Installed a 5/8"x18 allen plug to seal the valve.

7. Installed speed bleeders at all four corners.

8. Bled the brakes with the help of my daughter and went through 2 full 32oz bottles of DOT5.1 brake fluid just to make sure all of the air was out of the lines. Started the bleed at the RR-LR-RF-LF. All looked great, new uncontaminated fluid came out at all four corners.

9. Took the car for a test drive and the pedal is hard but not spongy. I was hoping to be able to lock up the brakes, but could only do it at 1-2 mph rolls. It takes quite a bit of force to stop the car, but it does better than the 1.125" bore MC. I would really like to improve the setup.

Has anyone else successfully performed this swap with better results. I read a few threads where a few guys claim to have braking power identical to a power setup with the above mentioned mods. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

.....Sand traps aren't fun in golf, and they really suck for drag cars

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I'm confused with this step. Did you install an adjustable prop valve? If not you are getting full power to the rear brakes and they will lock up MUCH earlier than the fronts. This is extremely dangerous.

As far as brake power. Yeah I'd think you should have as much power as with a stock power brake setup since your MC bore size is about the same as stock. You will just need to push the pedal MUCH harder.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Drop down to a 7/8" bore M/C. And add in a prop valve as recommended by 87350IROC.

Good brakes pads are also required. At least a semi-metallic in an FF rating.

RBob.