built91Z28

I'm going to try to give as much info as possible so this may be a little long.

My car was originally an auto. I drove the car for 3 years with the original booster, a pin that was cut to factory length out of a bolt (lost the original pin), an LT style used master cylinder, no proportioning valve, stock front brakes, Wilwood rear brakes with adjustable proportioning valve, and stainless steel flex lines.

I just got done with my 6 speed swap. The only things I've changed since last time I drove it are, the booster, the front steel hard brake lines, installed line lock, and the pedals for the stick shift.

The pedals are from a stick shift 3rd gen. They are from a V6 car, but from what I understand, this does not matter. The booster is from a 4th gen.

The problem I am having is that the brake pedal will move about 1.5" and then lock. I dont mean that it just gets hard to move as in no vacuum, I mean it 100% solid locks. You would have better luck pushing the concrete walls down in your house. If I loosen a rear bleeder, the pedal will go to the floor. If I loosen a front bleeder, the pedal will still lock. I have since taken the line lock off, tried a new booster (that I know is good) and bought a new (reman) master. None of this made any difference at all. It is exactly the same as before.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I am going nuts. I just spent 4 months rebuilding half my car and I want to drive the damn thing. Thanks for any help.

built91Z28

Update: I put my old auto brake pedal on and no change. Then I swaped the brake lines front to rear at the master and now the pedal will go to the floor. I'm thinking it may be something in the rear brakes afterall, even though I didnt change anything. I'm putting the car up in the air now to start checking things.

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iTrader: (14)

had the exact same problem for years, turns out, it was a vacuum leak from the carb to the booster, the hose itself was leaking. make sure its a new line and all connections are clamped well.

built91Z28

Yeah all thats new and good. The wierd part was that even with the front brake line off at the master, the pedal would lock up still, but with the rear open, it would go to the floor. And that was with 2 different masters and 2 different boosters and 2 different pedals. Once I switched the lines on the master though, it seems to have worked. I still have a decent amount of air in the system, but I have pressure back and front now. I'll find out tomorrow if it actually worked when I go back to fully bleed the system. I dont know why it would matter though. How would the master know which is which?

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iTrader: (14)

sounds like a real mess. hopefully you have it fixed now.

if it happens again, unbolt the master from the booster, ( 2 nuts), move it to the side, and see if the pedal goes to the floor or locks up.

built91Z28

It will go to the floor like that. The only time it wouldnt go to the floor is if the rear brakes started to build pressure. Then it felt like the master hydraulicly locked. I'm a tech at a dealership and I've had just about everyone help me try to figure this. I'm hopeing it was just the two lines.