Hi
I am finishing my engine with a 510 lift and I am worried about the brakes because a friend of mine just finished his engine with 490 lift and he is having problems with loss of vacuum and harder brake pedal!

What is the best thing to do? any ideas? shoul I fit a vacuum pump or a vacuum tank?

thanks and iclude pics if any!

 

Hey Manovox, My cam is a little bigger than that and I use a Vacuum Canister with great results. Its a CamDynamics brand and easy to plumb. Ill include some pic's but I dont know how well you can see it? Its located behind the drivers side headlite, laying on its side. If you look you can see the inlet hose coming out of the front of the forward intake air gap. The outlet hose runs over the drivers fender to the booster's check valve. Simple, cheap and effective.

 

I will make an aluminium tank by myself but should I have to put a non return valve or just the tank
please expalain to me coz I am confused!!

thanks more pics will bemor ethan helpful

 

Ok, your tank is going to need two ports, an inlet, and an outlet. The inlet is connected to a vacuum source on your intake, then routed to the inlet side of your tank, thats where you install the 'check valve' just like the one on your brake booster. Then route the other line(the outlet)to the brake booster's check valve, Done, assuming your tank is airtight. If you want more pic's, check Jeg's or Summit.

 

Sorry but English is not my language and to be sure if I understood

so I have to put the hose from the intake to the vacuum canister instead of the brake booster and another hose from the vacuum canister to the brake booster! and should I make another check valve?

how much hoses should the cansiter have?

 

Yes, you understood correctly. The tank should have two(2) hoses. One for the inlet(this is where the check valve goes), and one for the outlet(this is the one that goes to the check valve on the brake booster. Hope this helps.

 

Ok you was a great help for me!
tomorrow i will go to my friends shop and will make an aluminium tank to my measurments and will order a vacuum gauge for it

thanks

 

Just remember, a vacuum canister only stores vacuum, so after you first install your new tank the gauge will read low or no vacuum at idle. You will have to build vacuum by raising the rpm's before the gauge will register/read vacuum. A good vacuum system should hold vacuum for days, if not then you got a leak.

 

i have a larger cam than that and have no problems with brake vacuum. You will be fine. If your friend is having problems, there is something else wrong

 

i have a 525 lift and i had a problem with vacuum. i put the can on it and it worked great.

 

can show us the can with some pics?

 

Sure.

 

 

thanks for all te help

will fabricate one out of aluminium for sure as the motor will be ready for sure!!

 

im in the neighborhood of 550/570 lift intake/exhaust and have no brake issues. the rest of the cam specs are relevant to the issue too. I still dont think he will have issues

 

hi , can you tell me where i can find this tank you have, does jegs have this?...where did you buy it?...thanks.

 

Sure, the part number# is 99590-1 . Cam Dynamics is now CraneCams,and its black in color not yellow, but the part number is the same. Yes both Summit and Jeg's carry this piece for $85. Hope this helps

 

Its not lift that matters really..its overlap of duration at idle that kills vacuum. Adding a bunch of timing and keeping idle higher can give you some good vacuum but there will be a point where you just dont have enough. For reference I had a 230/245 duration cam with .603/.613 on a 109 lsa and didnt have any problems with brake pedal feel. STock discs sucked anyway even when stock, so didnt notice much of a difference. Ran it leaner at idle with 28 deg timing overall and it worked out. Dont know the exact numbers it put out but I got a feeling it was around 12-13 inch Hg. My current 233/233 .564/.564 on a 112 in the 401 motor idles nicely at 15-16 inch Hg with about same 28 deg timing