89 iroc brake upgrade. asking for input
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 69
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From: Bloomington, IL
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Auto
89 iroc brake upgrade. asking for input
hey guys, i've been wanting to upgrade my breaks for a while now, and i would like to do after the pads im on are worn out.
the thing is i dont know much about breaks and brands, clearance, sizing, etc.
i am working with original 16inch iroc rims and have stock disk in front and back. i know that i want drilled and slotted rotors. thats about as far as my definate choices have gone so far...
i don't want to spend too much money, but i do know sometimes money buys quality.
if someone could just give me a kick in the right direction it would be appreciated. thanks
the thing is i dont know much about breaks and brands, clearance, sizing, etc.
i am working with original 16inch iroc rims and have stock disk in front and back. i know that i want drilled and slotted rotors. thats about as far as my definate choices have gone so far...
i don't want to spend too much money, but i do know sometimes money buys quality.
if someone could just give me a kick in the right direction it would be appreciated. thanks
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 177
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z Z28 Convertible
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: 89 iroc brake upgrade. asking for input
I am starting to wrapup my disc/drum IROCZ conversion to disc/disc. You are already apparently there...you have the J65 package upgrade. If you look for LE1 brakes, you'll get the upgrade. They are aluminum front & rear. More stopping power up front, about the same in the rear (and the only do nominally 1/3 of the braking anyway). For the fronts, these are twin piston calipers. There are slight mods to the spindle, but they're easy and cheap to do (as an individual). Pretty easy to find. For the rear, you'll need an adapter kit to mount the aluminum rears. The rear calipers and caliper mountying brackets fit many products (Mustang, et al)...but the mounting bracket at the axle is F-car specific. In my mind, this is really a cosmetic upgrade (to match the front alum cals), but many folks do it. I estimated adding the alum rears runs an additional few hundred dollars. You have the J65 setup, so no prop valve change is required (although some will trim pressure split with spring changes).
If you choose to pursue, many smarter folks than me have great posts in here....
I chose to go with the LE1 front & J65 (what you have) on the rear....just painted them alum color.
If you choose to pursue, many smarter folks than me have great posts in here....
I chose to go with the LE1 front & J65 (what you have) on the rear....just painted them alum color.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: 89 iroc brake upgrade. asking for input
If the OP has an 89 with RPO J65, the front would be equipped with 10.5" rotors and single-piston iron Delco-Moraine calipers, which all cars were equipped with with the exception of the 1LE cars. The rears would be the so-called 1LE's, which all rear disc cars were equipped with 89-92. This system would have 11+" rotors and single piston alum calipers. BTW, all disc/disc cars, 82-92, are J65 regardless of the type of rotors/calipers.
If you wish to upgrade to 1LE's, here a how-to:
http://web.archive.org/web/200605221.../1LEbrake.html
The fronts and rears can be seen in my vbGarage (the icon next to my online status in the lower left)
There are many other options, however:
http://www.flynbye.com/
Oh, and many members would say that drilled/slotted rotors on a DD are a waste of money. If money is an issue (and when isn't it?), you might simply consider new rotors, pads, braided lines, and a fluid swap.
JamesC
If you wish to upgrade to 1LE's, here a how-to:
http://web.archive.org/web/200605221.../1LEbrake.html
The fronts and rears can be seen in my vbGarage (the icon next to my online status in the lower left)
There are many other options, however:
http://www.flynbye.com/
Oh, and many members would say that drilled/slotted rotors on a DD are a waste of money. If money is an issue (and when isn't it?), you might simply consider new rotors, pads, braided lines, and a fluid swap.
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; Oct 22, 2010 at 08:04 AM.
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