87 IROC brakes
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From: Elm City, NC
Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
87 IROC brakes
During the course of trying to fix up my new acquisition, I did a little brake work. I replaced the rotors all around with drilled/slotted ones. Upgraded brake pads, bled the system. Didn't make much different over stock. I don't really feel like it won't stop, but I do wonder if I'm going to run out of floor. They just don't feel tight. I realize this is late 80's brake tech, but dang. I've done all of the adjustments I can find, it just seems like they are a little bit substandard. Vacuum pressure is fine by the way. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Steve
Steve
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From: Mid West
Car: '87 Camaro
Engine: '92 Carb'd 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: factory stock
Re: 87 IROC brakes
What condition are the rear brakes in? Did you clean the rotors real good before finishing the assembly?
Another thing I've read here is the need to replace the original rubber lines with either the braided style or new rubber lines dueto the inside failing, thus causing swelling when brakes applied.
IMHO, check all the rubber lines for any swelling when brakes applied. You will need an assistant for about 5 mins to do it.
Another thing I've read here is the need to replace the original rubber lines with either the braided style or new rubber lines dueto the inside failing, thus causing swelling when brakes applied.
IMHO, check all the rubber lines for any swelling when brakes applied. You will need an assistant for about 5 mins to do it.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 306
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From: Elm City, NC
Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: 87 IROC brakes
What condition are the rear brakes in? Did you clean the rotors real good before finishing the assembly?
Another thing I've read here is the need to replace the original rubber lines with either the braided style or new rubber lines dueto the inside failing, thus causing swelling when brakes applied.
IMHO, check all the rubber lines for any swelling when brakes applied. You will need an assistant for about 5 mins to do it.
Another thing I've read here is the need to replace the original rubber lines with either the braided style or new rubber lines dueto the inside failing, thus causing swelling when brakes applied.
IMHO, check all the rubber lines for any swelling when brakes applied. You will need an assistant for about 5 mins to do it.
Replaced the rubber lines on the front when I did the rotors. Car stops straight. No pulling, chattering, etc.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: 87 IROC brakes
Bleed Bleed Bleed is my only other suggestion since you replaced the rubber lines. Start at rear pass, then rear driver, then front pass, then front driver.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 306
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From: Elm City, NC
Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: 87 IROC brakes
Just to clarify, the car stops ok. It just seems to me, with all the things I replaced, it would have a little better stopping power. Not that I condone locking up the brakes, but just out of curiosity, I tried it. 40 mph and layed on it with both feet. Not happening.
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