kickass92z

I need some links to rear swaps. I have found lots of info on front swaps, but not much on rear. I have been searching the forum for 30 min, and haven't found much. Maybe I didn't use the right combo of words, Who knows. I just bought a wrecked 2000 Z and want to swap out the brakes. I really appreciate the help...Thanks...

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Swap out rear ends, they are the same save the 93+ are wider.

kickass92z

I don't want to swap rears. I have my 10 bolt built with nice stuff. I know I had seen some stuff on this swap sometime back, but can't find much now.

Anti-Venom

Thats because rear brakes on our cars don't need to be swapped. Under hard braking all the weight biases to the front and the stock rear
brakes already have issues with locking up. Unfortunate flaw to the torque arm design. So basicaly your wasting your time.

kickass92z

Well thanks for that thoughtful insight, but you kinda missed the point. Looking for more the e-brake, and yea maybe better braking. I will have some time this winter while the car is torn down, I will see what I can come up with, don't really see that as a waste of my time, but thanks....

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

As far as I know the swap doesn't require much if any modification on a 10-bolt (seems as though I recall that the holes in the flange require some enlarging). Ed Miller sells custom parking brake cables:

http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i153.html

JamesC

Anti-Venom

You really won't see better braking from this swap. That's what I'm trying to tell you. I properly serviced my factory e-brake and it works fine. Lack of use is what causes them to stop working properly. Just trying to save you time, effort and a little cash thats all. If your rear tires are locking before the fronts (which is what f-bodies typically do) then adding more braking to an already skidding tire won't create an improvement.

kickass92z

Thanks JamesC, I checked out that site last nite and will call tomorrow. When I got my car all the e-brake parts were gone. 10 bolt rears for 3rd gens are expensive around here, but I have a 2000 I pulled the engine and trans from, so it would be cheaper for me to buy the swap parts to put the 4th gen brakes on. As for the rears locking up I have never had that problem, and since I may drive it 1000 miles a year, no real concern. Since doing a 6-spd swap from an auto the e-brake has become something I very much need.

blakecharles

it's not hard. I just did it... but still is a pita with all the cutting.

I'm guessing you have drums
https://www.thirdgen.org/ls1reardisc

I followed this post nearly to the t. it's as accurate. I can post pics if you want

Al Hasse

I did the swap a couple of years ago, including all the e-brake stuff on my 89. I already had a disc rear, so no fabrication on my axle housing was necessary. I posted in the Cascade Crew forum with pics, can be seen here...

http://cascadecrew.org/phpBB2/viewto...&highlight=ls1

pokey-z

E3e3333333333332E3W

pokey-z

Sorry, 18 month old girl sent that message.

kickass92z

YES!! Get her started early!!! Now give her a wrench and take this young one to the garage....

kickass92z

Since I posted this, I found a rear. I found a 92GTA that was cut and gut, but had the factory rear with disc and all the e-brake components. Will be posting up my built 10 bolt soon in the for sale threads...Thanks guys for all the info...

punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

where did you get the backing plate from?

daferris

iTrader: (8)

If you have a 10 bolt disc rear the backing plates from a 98 up 4th gen bolt right on no mods needed. Grab the parking cables with the backing plates. 3 basic ways to make the 4th gen cables work. 1) mount the 4th gen style e brake cable bracket in the trans tunnel so cables reach. 2) Weld a 3rd gen cable on the tunnel end of the 4th gen cable to get 12.5" overall sticking out the end of the housing. 3) the simplest is to make 2 cables (1/8" plastic covered works good) about 9.5" long from the inside of the furrell you attach at both ends weld ot otherwise make so the cable can't pull thru the furrell. then get a cable sleeve like this http://www.sanlo.com/assets/images/p...zinkcopcom.jpg and cut it open in the center small spot. spread it to get over the 4th gen cable end and the extension cable you made. Crimp it down tight and put a small hose clamp over it to prevent it from spreading open. This will then give you the length you need for less than $5.

ramicio

iTrader: (-1)

I did the recall kit on my rear calipers and new cables and they just barely started working. Yeah, and it wasn't an adjustment issue. I can apply them to the point that pulling up the handle again to release the brakes is insane, and they still won't hold the car when it's idling in drive. Now about a year later the one now gets stuck. These iron calipers are giant pieces of crap, and the e-brake doesn't stop functioning from lack of use. I couldn't care less about braking force in the rear. I want to get LS1 brakes so that I can pass inspection without replacing the brake calipers every year, oh and because I park on a hill and I don't like letting my driveshaft hold the weight of my car. In my opinion, GM should give me some kind of properly-functioning rear brakes for free. These brakes are a flaw, and a hazard, and the supply of recall kits are going to soon be gone. Remanufactured brakes don't even have the recall kit installed.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Well ramicio, yours are the crappy cast-iron Saginaw ones, and yes, they are crappy. OTOH the OP has a 92, with PBR rears, which are basically the same service brakes as the LS1s, the LS1 setup just has that other style of parking brake. (not sure what "e-brake" is, no car I've ever had has come with that, so w/e) So if you upgrade yours to LS1s, you'll make a YUUUUUUUUUJJJJJJE difference to how yours behaves. You'll need to change the prop valve: the hydraulic properties of the PBRs are WAY different from the Saggy, therefore the prop valve is different. However the prop valve for the last coupla yrs of drums and PBRs (91-92 or thereabouts) is the same, because the hydraulic properties of the PBRs are relatively similar to drums. So, always better to get "the right" prop valve of course, but in the particular situation of PBRs, a drum one will work MUCH closer to "right" than the one you have now.

ramicio

iTrader: (-1)

Was your sentence about the e-brake really necessary? Snobbery at it's worst. My reply wasn't necessarily towards the OP's. My rear brakes work just fine, hydraulically. I am venting because it's inspection month for my car. Last year I just got them barely working. This year they don't again, and I cannot afford to do anything about it. If I replace the calipers with ones from a store, they aren't going to work. Are there even any recall kits left? This is getting ridiculous. What is a person supposed to do to keep a classic car on the road? Parts that fall under fixing a safety recall should not be discontinued.