changing E brake cable
changing E brake cable
so my E brake hasnt worked in afew years and I finally wanna put in a new one, my question is do I need to take out my center console to disconnect the old cable or is everything underneath the car?
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Supreme Member




Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,977
Likes: 348
From: CT
Car: 1984 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
Engine: 5.0 Liter 4-BBL V8 High Output
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: changing E brake cable
Are You Replacing All 3 Cables Or Just The Rear's,If Your Also Replacing The Front It Has To Be Removed From The Console To Access Pin (5) Shown In The Diagram.




Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: New York
Car: 1985 IROC-Z H.O. 4bbl
Engine: L69 Small-Block, 305
Transmission: Borg-Warner T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: changing E brake cable
before you change those cables. See if you can push the actuating lever, {This is what the cable pulls to controll the piston in the caliper to move mechanically}, If it moves with moderate pressure than there cool. but if you gotta give it a hit with a hammer to make it move back and forth, then I would change them. (If you kept them like that, those new cables would stretch and turn into ****.. also if all this played out good, you might just have slack in the 2 cables to the rear. take a shot at adjusting the equalizer and see what you come out with.
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 887
Likes: 17
From: Golden, CO
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: L31 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 D44
Re: changing E brake cable
If you have to replace the first cable, which includes the treaded "bolt" adjuster underneath, I would STRONGLY suggest removing the console. Access to the clevis on the brake handle as mentioned above, and especially getting the cable through the floor grommet will go much easier.
Re: changing E brake cable
one more thing since I didnt realize there was 3 cables how can you tell which ones is causing the issues?
The e brake handle pulls up with no pressure and the car will roll with the handle all the way up.
The e brake handle pulls up with no pressure and the car will roll with the handle all the way up.
Trending Topics
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Car: 1985 IROC Z28
Engine: Rebuilt '69 327 0.030
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Re: changing E brake cable
Another response already indicated to check the ebrake levels (drums) if it moves or not (RE hammering it to move). That requires you to pull the tires off. The way I checked mine was:
1) Raise the vehicle.
2) Place a clamp the point 11 of the provided diagram in a previous post.
3) Pull the ebrake lever ... do I hear the clamp moving? Yes means the front cables are good (though it could be stretched and not as good as new).
4) Do the same per rear tire side and/ or again check the ebrake drum lever.
I had more issues with trying to source the right ebrake cables =(
1) Raise the vehicle.
2) Place a clamp the point 11 of the provided diagram in a previous post.
3) Pull the ebrake lever ... do I hear the clamp moving? Yes means the front cables are good (though it could be stretched and not as good as new).
4) Do the same per rear tire side and/ or again check the ebrake drum lever.
I had more issues with trying to source the right ebrake cables =(
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,293
Likes: 6
From: Howard Lake, MN
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: 355- hopefully a 5.3 this summer
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: changing E brake cable
have someone move the parking brake while you watch the cables under the car to see what moves and what doesn't..
if you have drum brakes, it might be as simple as actually adjusting them so the shoes actually hit the drum.. they are supposed to self adjust every time you stop in reverse, but too many people never bother actually stopping in reverse before slamming it into D (auto) or 1st gear (manual) and taking off.. this leads to the self adjusting stuff getting frozen, which leads to no rear brakes under any circumstance.
if you have drum brakes, it might be as simple as actually adjusting them so the shoes actually hit the drum.. they are supposed to self adjust every time you stop in reverse, but too many people never bother actually stopping in reverse before slamming it into D (auto) or 1st gear (manual) and taking off.. this leads to the self adjusting stuff getting frozen, which leads to no rear brakes under any circumstance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Terrell351
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
5
Jun 13, 2021 01:13 PM
Eric-86sc
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
3
Apr 3, 2016 03:52 PM







