Looking to put line locks on my all wheel disk brake 5 speed 383 powered z28. Was hoping someone here has some suggestions in a good everything included kit along with some insight on what is reccomended. Not what parts are reccomended but what line locks are. My buddy's line locks have been on his car for a couple months and they're already nonfunctional. No leaks but won't lock fronts.

Long story short I don't want to end up in the same boat.

 

I know someone here is running line locks...

 

I run a TCI line lock on my fronts. Had the same linelock for 15 years on 2 different cars. It was stored away for a few years in between those two cars.

I didn't use a kit to install. I just bought brake line from parts store and some adapter fittings.

Mine is with a strange manual brake master cylinder, and no prop valve though, but here is a picture.

My hardest part was finding adapters for the metric ISO bubble flare fittings on brake lines to the NPT fittings/threads in the T and line lock. After alot of digging online I found what I needed at 'the chassis shop'

 

Hey night rider, I appreciate the reply. Just curious why you decided not to run a prop valve. The reason I was looking for a kit was because of the difficulty of finding the proper adapters, as you stated. If at all possible could you give me a list of the parts/adapters you needed to purchase if I decide to go that route?

 

Just a question, why would you put a line lock on your rear wheels. I have one on my front wheels, just bought some brake line and adapters and fit it my self

 

Line lock on rear wheels can help a foot brake racer load the converter more on the line with out wheel spin. It will hold more pressure on the brakes than you just pushing the pedal down. Also faster reaction time to move your thumb off a button then to lift your foot off the pedal.

So set your 2 step, push your rear link lock button, floor throttle, lift your thumb off the button on the last yellow light

 

My car was going from daily driver to more weekend toy/race car. Not much street time anymore, so removing the prop valve gave me more rear brake bias to help hold the car on the line, plus took weight off, clutter off and made it a little easier to plumb in the line lock per NHRA rules.

To be NHRA legal you must plumb the link lock after the prop valve. This takes more effort, fittings, cuts, etc. than installing between master and prop. So to me if I didn't feel I 100% needed the prop valve, then why deal with extra BS. Just delete it.

I WOULD NOT remove the prop valve if you drive alot of the streets. I tested my limits after the mods.. 60 mph on the street (done on a country back road) and jammed on the brakes like you would have to in a panic stop and before I could do much other than look, I was pointing in the wrong direction. The rear locked up and car spun a 180. Which I knew that was gonna happen, just didnt know at what speed it would take to cause it.

As far as the fittings. Here's what I ordered
1) #889-f 1/8" NPT female to 3/8"-24 Tee
1) #891 3/8"-24 female to 1/8" NPT male straight
2) #892 3/8"-24 to 1/8" NPT male 90*
2) #896 10mm x 1.0 bubble female to 1/8" NPT male
1) #884 10mm x 1.0 bubble female to 1/8" NPT male 90*

Those parts was $42, shipping was $11.60, and that was Oct. 2009

And that was from www.chassisshop.com #800-530-9494

 

Thanks night rider, I'll be ordering mine friday!

 

My line lock came from Jegs, just their in house brand I believe, going strong after 6-7 years.

 

I have a thread on how I plumbed my Hurst line lock and an adjustable Wilwood proportioning valve. I do have the LL before the PV but it is legal per NHRA regulation because the PV does NOT have a differential switch or "brake" light switch. I have all the fitting sizes and info of how I made my setup work. I'll actually be doing the install some time this winter.

Here is a link:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brakes/709843-wilwood-adjustable-proportioning-valve.html