ok so I accidentally stripped out the 1le prop valve I got that I have on my 88 gta I know its like impossible to find another so I was wondering if a adjustable prop valve would be better im also running LS1 front brakes so a aftermarket prop valve would be best in my book also running a 4th gen master cylinder is there any companies that make a adjustable one that has the bubble flare threads in it or do I have to use adapters to make it work

can't you just put the spring from the 1LE prop valve into whatever random prop valve you can grab from a rusted hulk in a junkyard and be as good as new?

I didnt know u could do that do u have to get like a new seal kit as well

Adjustable is the best way to get the most out of the rear brakes. If you change tires or the load or the rear brakes it's easy to re-adjust with a turn of a ****. Doesn't affect the front. You get full pressure there anyway.

Yea just wondering what is the best prop valve to get i see that wilwood has one but dont know how the configurations are for the lines since I already made copper nickle line with the bubble flare would i have to totally change that over to accept the inverted flare

I got the summit one. $40 or so and works just fine. A great mod.

Yea i think the summit one is a single inlet and a single outlet im looking for one that i can hook up all 3 lines to it and also hook up the 2 from the master to the prop valve

Yes. They've got those too on the site somewhere.

took 5 seconds to find this on the Summit site:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...1179/overview/

Nice thats a nice looking piece now would this be a direct bolt in or would i have to change the brake line fittings and flares i have all bubble flares my guess would he is that i would need adaptors to make it work

I went with a wildwood valve I got from amazon for around 40 bucks. I just have it ran inline with the rear brake line. I have the front lines going directly to the wheels, no longer through a prop valve. Night and day with braking. No more nose diving under hard braking. Im running 4th gen disks in the back and 4 piston ctsv brakes up front.

The only real reason for having the front lines go through the distribution block is the fail switch if you lose the front brakes. But you'd figure that out pretty quickly anyway!

Yea im just wondering if u can get this in the metric bubble fitting threads if not looks like im changing all my lines back over to inverted flares

Ok so i got an update on this i purchased the wilwood single inlet single outlet prop valve and now im having trouble with the install the prop valve comes with 2 adaptor fittings to run 3/8x24 inverted flares but my 89 has metric bubble flares i think its m6, m8, or m10 line then the prop valve then m10 line going to the rear now im womdering if there is adaptors that i can use so i can keep the stock fittings and stainless steel lines i already purchased and installed on the car

You can hunt for exactly the right adapters or buy/rent a flaring tool to get what you need. I know a guy who does brakes so got it done by him.

Ok so i have the single inlet single outlet wilwood prop valve now the kit comes with 2 1/8 npt adapter fittings bit i cant use these for the stock f body metric brake fittings the one coming out of the mc is a m12 bubble flare and the one on the outlet that goes to the rear is a m14 or m16 bubble flare as well how do i go about getting the adapter fittings for it

i got that exact same prop valve, and the answer is that you need to reflare the lines with SAE nuts on the lines... i could not find a 1/8" NPT to metric flare adapter for either of the lines.

so I dont need the prop valve in the front lines? and just run that wilwood adjustable in the pic above in-line on the rear line? just making sure i understand this right?

Yes, the valve goes in the rear brake circuit.

you want full pressure to the front brakes, the adjustable valve cuts pressure to the rears to help deal with premature lockup as the weight shifts to the front of the car in a hard stop.