I got a line for some front cross drilled slotted rotors and I can't seem to find the ones for my rear
does anyone know if they still make anything
I have a 9 bolt borg Warner rear with disc and not perf package
ty

 

Why? The iron calipers don't do anything anyway. Fancy rotors aren't going to suddenly fix the calipers.

 

There' out there, just gotta' look a bit harder......

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Chevy-C...0AAOSw4c5b4aVh



Remember that the 88 9-bolt brakes are the same as all other 82-87 rear disk brakes. If you keep finding "1LE" brakes just change the year of your search to 87 or earlier. Just verify that the rotor diameter is 10.5" and not 11.5" and you'll find the right rotors for your ride.

 

What both John and Drew said.

That brake system is so crappy though, it's almost a complete waste of time to spend any money on "upgrading" it, without changing it to some other system. Especially on something that's REALLY a "downgrade", like … drilled rotors. A relic of days long gone, that is so firmly etched into the general public's mind, that they WANT IT regardless of whether it DOES ANYTHING for them. The car mfrs and brake part mfrs keep SELLING them because people WANT them, not because they IMPROVE brake performance. They are leftover from the days when the pads were made of materials that evaporated and produced gases when they got hot, and the purpose of the holes was to let the gases out, so they wouldn't form a layer between the pad and rotor and act as a "lubricant". But since the binder material in pads hasn't done that for probably 50 years now, all the holes accomplish in 2020, is to decrease the rotor surface area, thereby REDUCING brake effectiveness. OTOH with the Saginaw rear discs you wouldn't notice the difference because they hardly ever do anything at all anyway.

 

Stillen has them - just slotted Here. I used their rotors when I re-did my brakes. Seems like I needed to wait a week or so to get them. Mine had some braking problems when I bought it so I just replaced all the hoses to braided lines, new pads all around, some red calipers upfront, and new rotors all around. I also changed the spring in the proportioning valve. The system works great, brakes nice and straight, can lock up the fronts if I want, and the parking brake holds the car on a small hill - Don't forget to cycle your parking brake every time you park.

Yes, there are better options today. Even better than the 1LE PBRs. The question is how much do you want to invest. Because, unless you are doing road courses, it's not necessary. Your brakes won't stop you any better than your tires will grip. If you have enough clamping force to lock your wheels up, you need better tires first. Bigger brakes just dissipate and spread out heat faster and last longer without fade in extreme conditions. If you get big strong brakes for the rears and start locking them up before the fronts, you are going to wreck your car. Just like anything else on the car, the entire system has to work together to produce the best results - from Master Cylinder to the contact patch of the tire.

 

If the reason for wanting them is "Because they look cool", and that's your opinion, then sure blow a couple hundo on some overpriced jewelery.
If the reason for wanting them is "Because my brakes suck", then they're probably not going to help much.

If you want the brakes to work better, upgrade the brakes to something else. For every person that gets the iron rear disc calipers to work, there are 20 others that never get it to work right. Personally I've driven countless thirdgens, and only remember one that had the iron rear calipers that worked well. Incidentally it was one of my cars, and I never touched the brakes, so who knows why that one worked well.

If you want the brakes to work better, AND look cool, get a system that uses a larger rotor, better calipers, etc. Trendy holes, slots, and gimmicky features are completely optional.

 

Advanced Auto factory replacement rear rotors are $54 and you've got to pick them up.

The E-Bay Drilled/Slotted rotors above are $ $60 -----> delivered.

Just about everyone that spends their hard-earned $$ money on "upgrades" does it or 1 reason,...... the cool-factor. I'm not a betting man; but I'd be willing to bet there isn't a single person that's EVER used this website that hasn't spent $6 to add a little 'cool' to their ride.

A brake system upgrade/conversion will 'literally' cost a couple hundred bucks (If you do the labor) and a probably up around a thousand (or more) by the time your driving again if someone else is turning the wrenches. So, Need new rotors,.............. either stock, or an extra $24 for the COOL drilled slotted rotors at all 4 corners and an afternoon to install them / or a week or more of effort to acquire the parts & get the garage time, then hundreds of dollars and a week at the shop??? Not everyone can afford the dollars or downtime & there's ABSOLUTELY NUTHIN' wrong with fixing what you've got ( the problem at hand ) and moving on.

 

GM couldn't make the iron calipers work. That should tell you something.

 

My GM Iron calipers work fine; that should tell Ya' sumthin'...........

 

That you got lucky, or fought with them forever until you understood them better than an engineer?

The point is for the average person, who doesn't want to make a career out of adjusting and fiddling with defective calipers, the GM solution was to throw the Delco-Moraine caliper baby out with the bathwater and use something different. I'm not one to throw something away if it can be fixed or is working fine, but if there's ever a case for something that was designed, produced, and the manufacturer admitted they messed up, the iron rear disc calipers is it.

Wake up and smell the new millennium. The iron caliper rear discs were crap by 80's standards. It's been over 30 years since GM said "Fudge it" and started using PBRs. In all this time no one has ever conclusively found a way to fix the problem with the early calipers. You might as well be sacrificing chickens and having a witch doctor perform rituals with the bones. Sorry but you're never going to get me on board for the early disc brakes. They're garbage and a liability at best, and drilled or slotted rotors paired with the iron calipers is the dumbest thing since the solar powered flashlight. I have spoken.

 

The screen is cracked on my Iphone 6,.. it only gets limited use cause' it stays in my ride. Should I spend $20 to replace the screen so it looks 'cool' again, or buy a Iphone 11 @ $1300 ?

I didn't realize bensbaby had problems with his rear breaks,... I must have missed that. Thought he was just looking for some replacement cross-drilled rotors.

 

[QUOTE=

I didn't realize bensbaby had problems with his rear breaks,... I must have missed that. Thought he was just looking for some replacement cross-drilled rotors.


[/QUOTE]
I guess that would be the ultimate question. If he is going for the cool factor then go for it. As for better braking with drilled and slotted probably not gonna happen. I was gonna do drilled and slotted the whole way around on my car. I was told by a a road racer to not bother. They are a waste of money unless you are running huge big dollar brakes. Factory is more than enough for a daily driver and weekend racer.

 

Agreed, I find it funny that putting a drilled rotor on a car is so frowned upon when said car has fake hood scoop/louvers, molded ground effects that do nothing, and split exhaust form a single pipe to look "cool"... but those brake rotors "looking cool" is just too much.

 

I'm sorry, does your Iphone's screen keep you from slamming into a bus load of nuns because your car won't stop?

If you're going to drive a car, it has to be able to stop for the safety of you and the people that share the roads with you.
The Delco calipers don't work for most people, in most cases. You can throw money at the problem, but unless you put something else on there, you're still dealing with flaky shitty brakes. Fancy rotors aren't going to fix anything, they're just tossing good money after bad.

 

Delco Morraine caliper rotors from Summit:
Left rear:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...t/model/camaro
Right rear:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...t/model/camaro
Several listed:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending

 

No,.. my front brakes do; the rear brakes just keep the car from nose-diving as the front brakes stop the car.

 

Also doesn't lock up - keeps the rear from coming around on you in an aggressive stop situation

 

Ya'; I've driven a car that had no front brakes at all and a different car with no rear brakes at all. A car with no rears dives REAL hard - but you stop. When there's no fronts you almost instantly lock up the rear wheels and slide,..... really just 'along for the ride' at that point.

 

Weird. Lost the fronts on my 83 at the top of an offramp (burst front hose). The drums out back didn't lock up, the car stopped about 20 feet past where it would have normally stopped, it was just a white knuckle, stand on the brake pedal, experience.

We're going around and around the issue. I asked the OP "why" in the first reply to the thread. OP never clarified. I followed up by clarifying if the goal is looks, to go ahead, but not to expect a great improvement in braking.

Take the time to explain why the rear discs pre-89 are a mixed bag, and recommend an upgrade if the goal is improved braking, and suddenly we're talking about Iphones and debating the merits of no brakes. What a ride.

 

Cross drilled rotors are useless if you don't upgrade to the cross drilled brake lines to go with them.

 

I have the spring in my prop valve upgraded
so the rear brakes work 50% better than they ever did before
and I was just asking ok
my calipers all work
my ebrake works
tho for the eBay link I asked them if there the right ones