Audio gurus, got a sec to tell a newb how to set up his system?
Audio gurus, got a sec to tell a newb how to set up his system?
First of all, thanks for even opening this post. My request is simple - I'm getting an amp and want to not burn down my car misinstalling it. Here's what I have now:
Pioneer DEH-P77DH 1.5 DIN head
2 4x6 Boston Acoustics
2 6x9 Pioneer 3-ways
I'm getting a Kicker IX405D, and will be *trying* to put it in this weekend. I'll probably get a 10" sub later, but I won't worry about that yet.
Can/should the head unit still power something? How many ohms, that kind of junk? Anything you have to say I'm sure will enlighten.
Thanks a lot,
Gerry
Pioneer DEH-P77DH 1.5 DIN head
2 4x6 Boston Acoustics
2 6x9 Pioneer 3-ways
I'm getting a Kicker IX405D, and will be *trying* to put it in this weekend. I'll probably get a 10" sub later, but I won't worry about that yet.
Can/should the head unit still power something? How many ohms, that kind of junk? Anything you have to say I'm sure will enlighten.
Thanks a lot,
Gerry
Sorry...here goes everything I can find.
Kicker amp stuff:
KICKER Impulse IX405D Specifications
Four Channel Section
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 4 Ohm stereo, 0.085% THD, all channels driven 40x4
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 2 Ohm stereo, 0.2% THD, all channels driven 55x4
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 4 Ohm bridged mono, 0.2% THD 115x2
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 4 Ohm stereo, 0.085% THD, all channels driven 55x4
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 2 Ohm stereo, 0.2% THD, all channels driven 75x4
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 4 Ohm bridged mono, 0.2% THD 150x2
Frequency Response: 20-20kHz, +/-0.5dB
Input Sensitivity - High Level: 1V-10V
Input Sensitivity - Low Level: 150mV-3.0V
Class D Subwoofer Section Power Ratings
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 4 Ohm mono: 200
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 4 Ohm mono: 275
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 2 Ohm mono: 290
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 2 Ohm mono: 390
OKAY...here's 4x6 stuff:
FX7 - FX Coaxial Full Product Specifications
Recommended Amplifier Power 12-80 watts
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Sensitivity (1 watt (2.83v) at 1m) 92dB
System Type 2-way
Now, 6x9:
Pioneer TS-A6975 3-way 6x9
4-ohm rated
220 Watts Max. Power (40 Watts Nominal)
Sensitivity (Efficiency): 93dB (1W/1m)
Please keep in mind the kicker watts are real watts, probably vastly underrated...
Thanks for the advice, I REALLY appreciate it.
Kicker amp stuff:
KICKER Impulse IX405D Specifications
Four Channel Section
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 4 Ohm stereo, 0.085% THD, all channels driven 40x4
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 2 Ohm stereo, 0.2% THD, all channels driven 55x4
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 4 Ohm bridged mono, 0.2% THD 115x2
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 4 Ohm stereo, 0.085% THD, all channels driven 55x4
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 2 Ohm stereo, 0.2% THD, all channels driven 75x4
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 4 Ohm bridged mono, 0.2% THD 150x2
Frequency Response: 20-20kHz, +/-0.5dB
Input Sensitivity - High Level: 1V-10V
Input Sensitivity - Low Level: 150mV-3.0V
Class D Subwoofer Section Power Ratings
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 4 Ohm mono: 200
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 4 Ohm mono: 275
RMS Power (wattschannel) @ 12.5V, 2 Ohm mono: 290
Dynamic Power (wattschannel) @ 14.4V, 2 Ohm mono: 390
OKAY...here's 4x6 stuff:
FX7 - FX Coaxial Full Product Specifications
Recommended Amplifier Power 12-80 watts
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Sensitivity (1 watt (2.83v) at 1m) 92dB
System Type 2-way
Now, 6x9:
Pioneer TS-A6975 3-way 6x9
4-ohm rated
220 Watts Max. Power (40 Watts Nominal)
Sensitivity (Efficiency): 93dB (1W/1m)
Please keep in mind the kicker watts are real watts, probably vastly underrated...
Thanks for the advice, I REALLY appreciate it.
Ok well I will assume you dont feel like buying a seperate amp for the sub. From what you have I would just bridge 2 channels on the 10 (need a DVC though) inch sub. Then use the other 2 channels for your rear speakers (dont turn their gain up toooo much, although pioneers could probly take it). Then run your 4x6s of the head unit.
Now if you felt like making your sytem about 40% better sounding with about 400-500 bucks, you could get kickpanels, a seperate 2/1 channel amp for your future 10 inch and a set of components. Then run your kicker to the components and 6x9s with a channel going to every corner and then your seperate 2 channel amp bridged to a 10 inch DVC sub. That would give you infinite better sounding highs, much better mids in the front and alot more flexibility on controlling your subs range and gain. It would also allow you to buy a higher watt sub and amp for more bass if you felt like it. You will definately be happy either way you go. And if you felt like it you can always build yourself up 1 step at a time to my second suggestion. Feel free to ask any more questions if you have em.
greg
Now if you felt like making your sytem about 40% better sounding with about 400-500 bucks, you could get kickpanels, a seperate 2/1 channel amp for your future 10 inch and a set of components. Then run your kicker to the components and 6x9s with a channel going to every corner and then your seperate 2 channel amp bridged to a 10 inch DVC sub. That would give you infinite better sounding highs, much better mids in the front and alot more flexibility on controlling your subs range and gain. It would also allow you to buy a higher watt sub and amp for more bass if you felt like it. You will definately be happy either way you go. And if you felt like it you can always build yourself up 1 step at a time to my second suggestion. Feel free to ask any more questions if you have em.
greg
Thanks for the input, man...let me clarify one thing that I didn't before - this amp is specifically designed to run 4 speakers AND a subwoofer...the sub portion is 290 watts. I do plan to use the amp as it is set up...given that info, what should I do? Can I still use the head unit, it would it prevent me also getting amp power to a set of speakers? Thanks again, I really appreciate the expertise.
- Gerry
- Gerry
OK, a quick search and I couldn't bring up much info on your amp, but I'm guessing that the 4 speaker and sub setup is the SAMS system, where two of the channels can be bridged to essentially create a third mono channel, while the original two channels still operate in stereo.
Since you have this option, your best bet is to run everything off of the amp. Your amp most likely has a built-in crossover, which means you can cut out some of the bass frequencies going to the 4x6s and 6x9s, allowing you to push much more distortion-free power. Even if it doesn't, the amp supplies cleaner power to your speakers than the headunit can.
Since you have this option, your best bet is to run everything off of the amp. Your amp most likely has a built-in crossover, which means you can cut out some of the bass frequencies going to the 4x6s and 6x9s, allowing you to push much more distortion-free power. Even if it doesn't, the amp supplies cleaner power to your speakers than the headunit can.
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It sounds like CaysE is right. Ive never heard of that amp, but it could be out there. If it is a true 5 channel amp then just run your speakers off the 4 channels and sub of the 5th. If you can though, upgrade the fronts to components, whether you put the in the door or kickpanels or a custom mount, it will sound alot better than amplified 4x6s. The amplifier does supply a much cleaner signal than the head unit, but with the factory mount location for the 4x6s you wont notice it all that much.
greg
greg
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-irZoMXt...06IX405D&o=&a=
There's the Kicker IX405D.
Thanks everyone for your input, I'll run the whole shebang off of the amp, and let the head unit relax. One more question...since all my speakers seem to be 4-ohm rated, does that mean I simply have to wire them or whatever to be 4-ohm? I think I've gleaned that the lower the ohm the "better", so I'd better stick with 4 ohm settings.
Thanks for your patience.
- Gerry
There's the Kicker IX405D.
Thanks everyone for your input, I'll run the whole shebang off of the amp, and let the head unit relax. One more question...since all my speakers seem to be 4-ohm rated, does that mean I simply have to wire them or whatever to be 4-ohm? I think I've gleaned that the lower the ohm the "better", so I'd better stick with 4 ohm settings.
Thanks for your patience.
- Gerry
It's a 40x 4 stereo,up front, has built in EQ and crossovers. Sub channel is 290 watts, Class D with remote gain. You need a 4 ohm load on the sub, and run the remote to the front for easy adjusting. It also has a built in sub crossover...good, powerful amp....the 40x4 is really closer to 60x4....and sub amp is more like 320+....hope this helps!
Pretty sweet amp if you ask me, that aint to shabby at all. You should be good running all of the amp. Sounds like all your stuff is single voice coil so just wire it from the amp like you would wire it from the head unit... let us now if anything lights up!
greg
greg
Let me just say thanks to everybody who has replied...you don't know how helpful you all have been. Without you I'd have been up the creek without a boat. I'll attempt to install this beast this weekend, so I'm sure I'll come crying back begging to know why part of my car's on fire.
Really, I appreciate it.
Really, I appreciate it.
Hey, my email is yelowramair@att.net, you have any probs. let me know. I just hit 150.4 db swystem is for sale if you know anyone looking.
ok...this should be pretty simple. You have 5 speakers, and 5 channels, all you need to do is hook up the fronts to there respective connections, hook up the rears to their respective connections and so on with the sub. beacuase the amp is designed to power 4 full range speakers plus a sub, no bridging will be required whatsoever. just hook it all up where it goes (should be labeled somehow) and let 'er rip.
Tim
Tim
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