Hey guys I was just wondering if anybody knows anything about legacy stereo stuff. I have heard many mized things from friends but my friends are retarded so I figured I would ask people that actually know. SO what do we know about legacy? Good or Bad or middle of the road?

 

Crap

 

all legacy or just subs or just amps? Crap how so? lol

 

Everything of theirs is crap. There are a VERY low quality maker of "car audio" equipment. Stay away from brands like legacy, pyramid, rockwood, kenford, urban audio. Pretty much everything that looks like it might be good but is very very cheap.

Brian

 

i have 2 legacy calimed 500 watts amps. had each one hooked up to a kenwood sub 12" blew both subs. People talk crap, but dont know what to say when i show them what i did. for hte price, if ya want a ok sounding system, get it. If you want it loud, go with mmats

 

wow, you blew crappys subs, congratulations, when you have the gain turned up to the moon, on a junk amp, the signal gets dirty, and the sub distorts, kudos to you for not having an ear to keep from wasting money.


adam

 

I can blow subs with a 30 watt amp.

 

I'll bring the amp. You bring the subs. :sillylol:

 

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
I can blow subs with a 30 watt amp.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------






I HATE TO DO THIS BUT I HAVE TO PULL THIS HERE






I'll bring the amp. You bring the subs.

I HAVE TO BE THERE FOR THAT.

 

I wouldnt try that with Jim. He will smoke ya. Especially if you arent sure if legacy stuff is good or not. I am not trying to be a
d!ck but Jim is an electrical engineer.

Brian

 

I'll see your

and raise you 4 's because it's true.

If you don't know why then you don't know car audio.

Find a website about car audio and look up what clipping means. Then maybe you'll understand why.

Until then, shut your pie hole man.

 

I RAISE ALL 180000000000000001 s

 

Whoa.....

He's getting dirty now!!!!!

 

So I will blow an amp with out an AMP !!

 

Hey Jim is it. . .Mr. Electrical engineer you are just the man I am looking for than!!! I want to learn all there is about car audio I know some but not very much please teach me oh wise one. . . I need guidance.

 

gain wasnt turned up more than a 1/4 turn. Kenwoods are not all that bad. I did have 2 kove audio subs and 2 mmats 800 watt amps. Now that was loud, and would blow any sub, but for the money u pay if you want a hceap system, i think legacy is the way to go. you cant beat there 5 year warrenty.

 

i'm agreeing with jim. those of you who dont, go do a little research on a topic before you bull out the "BS".

and on the topic, legacy is crap. and i doubt either of those 500 watt amps put out half of that....

 

push enuff amps to blow some ok speakers. I mean all what i needed was bass, not earth pounding, even tho i am doing a 4 10;s set up. Just to look nice, not much for sound. I did hook it up to the old volt meter, u would be surprsied of the peak power at 14.4 volts

 

what frequency were you playing when you hooked up "the old volt meter" to find wattage?


adam

 

umm, 150 blocked off at the pioneer receiver. I think it goes 40 80 then 150 lpf on the pioneer decks. But i had it on the highest one.

 

so are you telling me that you measured wattage at 150hz?


adam

 

yes sir.

 

Here is how you can blow a speaker with hardly any power:
The speaker is not meant to sit in one position, it's meant to always be moving. So if the sub needs more power, and you crank up the amp, it will start to clip. The cause the speaker to extend as far as it can, and then stop. While it's stopped at the top or bottom of its excursion, it starts to build up heat. This eventually fries the sub. That's why manufacturers always state that it's better to overpower a speaker slightly than to underpower it. If you want to see this in action, just attach a battery to a speaker.

quingofpenguins, if you are really interested in learning about car audio and how it works, I can get you some websites. As always, a search of this board will teach you a ton!

 

the only frequency that you can halfway test an amps output that i know of, is 60hz. that is the only one i have ever heard of doing, or been able to find the formulas for.

thank you, drive through

adam

 

Testing at any specific frequency is a complete waste of time considering that an amp is playing a wide frequency signal into a load that is dynamic and different at all frequencies.

 

then how do manufacturers do it?

i have always thought it was by measuring the output at the 60hz sine.


adam

 

I have been searching as much as I can but if you can some websites that teach in laments terms that would be awesome. Thanks guys.

 

This should fry your brain pretty good.

 

Crappy stuff is either measured in PMPO (forgot what it stand for...). It's a different wattage measurement that shytty audio stuff is rated with to make it seem like more. Like 150w computer speakers that come with your E-Machines.

Either that, or they measure the absolute peak they could get out of the item for a split second before it blew.

Trust me, I have had some real junk in the past, (Urban Audio 400w amp... my STOCK speakers sounded better than the 2 Alpine Type S's that I had hooked up to that), and it may seem like a good deal, but this is ALWAYS gonna be true:

You will get what you pay for.

My 2-c-

Oh yah... what about Road Gear!! lol

 

I have been running a full system of Legacy's for about four months now. I just upgraded my stock unit to an Eclipse 180W unit and attached that to my 240W 2-way (front) and 400W 3-way (rear) Legacy speakers and they sound a heck of a lot better than the crappy ones I took out of the car in the first place. Granted, I don't have them hooked up to my 340W Jensen amp yet, but that's coming in the future. The only problem I am having with the speakers is that the fronts have way too much treble in the sound they put out-if I adjust my system slightly to the rear fade, the treble disappears, and so does the loud squeal as a result of that design.

 

there are NO 180watt head units.
real wattage is probably 20rms at most.


adam

 

Legacy blows. Can't say enough about it. I always will wonder how a 800w max amp can become 50rms x 2 in the end. Had it on two Kenwood tornadoes. Sounded like ***. Got a sony amp for it, sounded better. Anything you can find in wal-mart aint worth buying. Bad thing is, Legacy and Pyramid arent even good enough to get into wal-mart. In car stereo, if its too good to be true, 99.9% of the time it is. Also, clipping the amp means doubling the amp power by pushing it too hard. Wal mart subs, like the "200 watts of blasting power" bass tubes, might be blown on it. I did it with my sony 760w in about 30sec. It was pretty fun actually. 30rms amp will get 120max when clipped which could blow a ****ty sub, like the 500watt Chrome monster you can find on ebay for like 19 bucks.

 

What about legacy equalizers. They have a 10 band pre amp equalizer that looks pretty clean. It should work. Anyone tried one?

 

Honestly, just stay away from it. It might be good, but i doubt its worth the chance you are taking.

 

Do you think that a company that makes the lowest quality amps and speakers on the market is somehow going to turn out a show winning equalizer?

Let me put it another way. Every time you sniff your ****, it stinks. You can be pretty sure without checking, that next time it's not going to smell like Drakkar. Same deal with Legacy. Even though you didn't actually evaluate their equalizer, you can make a pretty reasonable assumption based on prior knowledge.

 

i have 2 brand new Legacy 1,000 watt amps more like (10watts)
someone gave them to me... i wonder why
and they each got one 15amp fuse:sillylol:
things around here that arnt useful well end up like my printer!...
believe me this would be the only way to blow there amps:lala:

 

I wouldn't bother with the EQ, cause most of them have an amp built into them, which isn't what you're looking for.

Also consider this, companies like legacy use cheaper electronic components and don't have as strict of tolerances as higher end stuff. And everyone knows that your sound system is only as good as your weakest link. So trying to save money by buying that legacy EQ will actually decrease the quality of sound you get. When I was looking for an EQ, I looked at those, because all I wanted was selectable inputs for my PSone. I ended up going with the clarion s560, which I found for ~$60. And when I installed it, my system sounded better and I had all the features I wanted. So keep looking, often times there's something a lot better for just a little bit more.

 

legacy,along with pyramid, can be found at your finer pawnshops&those "liquidation sales" that blow into town(then quickly leave when the masses have been fleeced). jim's right legacy is junk. an amp that claims 1000 watts and has a 15 amp fuse is lying to you."max power " ratings are useless in the real world, and yes you CAN blow a sub with a 30 watt amp. an amp uses alternating current to drive a speaker,when clipping occurs, the output introduces dc in the speakers' voice coil causing either the voice coil to overextend,or heating the voice coil up until there isa burnt spot in the winding that breaks in two,causing infinite resistance(no continuity) in speaker. :rockon:

 

I'm a little late but I can't resist.

Legacy is cheap junk. If that is all someone can afford then oh well. But you are better to save you money.

 

E X I = P

refering to legacy amps 'sticker' power will never lead to a good system, but if it's used within it's limitations, it will last as long as anything else.

the argument over 'comparison' between generic and high end amps will never end, but they both do the same thing on some level. I have my favorites and Legacy is not one of them.

an amp with a 15 amp fuse can deliver roughly 187 watts as it's blowing that fuse.

it's real power is: 132 watts RMS. if thats the total power on a 4 channel amp, then it will hand out 33 watts of continuous power....which is decent compared to a stock or even most aftermarket radios. Now does that mean I would turn down a nice JBL, Alpine or Fosgate 25x4 class AB amp? No, but if I got the Legacy for free or next to nothing, I would use it and I would use it within it's limitations.

I've installed many of these '100,000 WATT!' generic amplifiers in friends cars, No one I know has had a problem with them and there certainly was an improvement over no amp or stock system. Some actually sound surprizingly good for what they are.
Some of these amps have been in operation for nearly a decade.

Am I an advocate for substandard audio equipment? No, I would recomend using something solid like JL Audio, it will give you more than what you need and ensure years of reliability. And you don't need a calculator to figure the real power......it says it right on the case!

As I mentioned in another post: Class AB amps are your worst choice for subs, they will inherently overheat and protect themselfs or burn right up. Class D will shake things right up and your ear cannot hear the nanoseconds of switching which forms those long waves we like so much.



The only equipment I have seen just fail for no good reason, besides my warrantied Alpine..., Sony X-plode! X-plode my eye, I've never seen such inferior electronics in my life, I've never even dreamed of such garbage, to think that junk has and still does get ranked amongs mid-high end stuff by the confused masses. Sickens me enough to stamp out this note at 2:52 am.

 

LOL in my nissan I have a Pyramid pro 300 amp and I have an urban audio 12" sub. Its sounds alright, becuase I dont want to make my car shake to **** with anything more powerful.

 

just to clear something up, junkyard, an AB amp will not overheat and blow up if you put it on a sub. they've been doing it for years. however, i do agree that for 99.5% of people, class D is a better choice for subs, because it runs cooler and is more efficient. so i'm agreeing with you, just trying not to scare those who have an AB on their subs

(i'm running a class AB Ample amp on my sub. good power and couldnt beat the price. would i go D? yes)

 

I had a Legacy sub like 2 years ago, It really sucked. But I have had nothing but good luck with their amps. Just remember they really arent pushin what they say they are. I have a Legacy 1400 watt amp up to 2 Rockford Punch XLC 12s, It hits hard, Sounds good, and is good for now, But it is certainly not 1400 watts. But I am selling all that now to put in a DVD system instead!

 

KRRRRAPPPPP

 

that note about AB amps really applies more to cheapo amps. Yes, good AB amps can power subs and whatever without any trouble, especially when they aren't overdriven. Cheap amps don't like heat at all, using class AB for full range will always work an amp hard.

so remember: use cheapo yard sale amps with good breathing room and good wiring, use the HP or LP x-over. As far as speakers go: don't use those at all!

 

My shop wont sell Legacy had very high return rate

 

whats wrong with an AB amp? i have the Crossfire 602 and i love it..i'll put it up to any other type of AB amp. i know class D is better but for us who are more into performance my Crossfire amp and 2 12' Polks is more than enough for me. a friend of mine said my system hits about as hard as his, JL subs and amp, and i didn't even have the amp turned 3/4 up and no bass boost. look into crossfire....www.crossfirecaraudio.com

 

There's nothing wrong with an AB amp as long as you have enough current to run it.

 

i have to clarify this...

Legacy Is not Crap.

Ive owned one of their 1200w Red Series 2 amps for over a year without any problems or concerns and it hits just as hard as many others i have tried.

For a standard amp it is excellent and a wonderfull deal, i only paid 100 bucks for mine and it was well worth it. My friend also owns a legacy and havent had any problems with it.

 

that was stupid... You could get so much better! Just look around! I got a Pioneer GM-374 and a GM-972 both for $140.

The GM-374 puts out 100w X 2 RMS @ 4 ohms and 400w X 1 RMS @ 4 ohms for me. Good enough for now, not impressive but decent low mid-grade stuff.

I could have done much better but I don't have the best of patience and wanted something now.

FYI - A good install is 70% Install, 30% Equipment

Be sure to check out those links to all those usefull tutorials on the link up above, very good stuf to learn what car audio is really about.

I am tired of people thinking that if a sub blows their amp, then they think their amp is the shizz, its just not so people, all these people know what their talking about! Listen to them, I only wish I knew half of what they knew...