hey I have 4 15s for my Z28 but I don't want to build a wall so I'll settle for 2, I was just wondering if anyone had any pics of a similar install or had any tips? Thanx guys!

 

My question is WHY? 15s are just like old ppl f*cking..Slow and sloppy. LOL Anyway have fun with em. But Id sell em and get some 12s. Your preferance I guess.

 

As far as Old and sloppy Ill run my system up agaisnt your 12(s) any day.
My system isnt the loudest i ever heard. I heard 4 12s in third gen
and 4 15s in a third gen. Its all matter of preferance Personally I would like to sell mine and get 4 12s because of music i like to listen to.
If you like rap and bass music then id go tor 15s. if like more punch then low bass then go with 12s. I listen to all kinds of music and want something more versatile.
Before car was stolen I had
Pioneer 9300
Planet audio neo 6*9s
Planet audio 4*75w
Planet audio 1200D mono 1200watts
Optima yellow top
alumapro 15 fared (tired of car dying at a stop due to bass)
Now just the headunit
1 speaker
Theives only ganked my 4channel. And misc interior crap

 

I dont mean to start a flame war. But as you said 10s or 12s is for more punchy bass. 12s can handle both fast punch, and big thump. Thats why I prefer them. 15s can no doubt out do my 12s but theres also the factors of 15s+dont need as much to get them loud. Wattage of speakers. The fact I dont care what someone else has. Im not into competing, Im into listening to music. I dont even like listening to my Dying Fetus cd with 12s all that much. Since DF uses double bass so much, and my 12s dont sound as nice as Id like em too with the double bass.

Everyones entitled to what they think, I just think 12s are overall a better speaker for various types of music. Opinions are like *******s everyones got one.

Nate

 

I always thought 10's could hit lower notes.. guess I had no idea

 

hmmm where to start?

the statement that 10s and 12s produce punchy bass is wrong...it really depends what model subs you are talking about...many 10inch woofers can drop lower and louder than 15s. and saying that 15s dont need as much to get them loud is also wrong. it depends greatly on the box the sub is in, and also greatly on the specs of the sub. Some subs like a Treo CSX wont get loud at all unless they see about 3000 watts.

i would be willing to even put my 18s against 10s as far as sound quality goes. As long as im able to put them in a sound quality designed enclosure they will hit fast and hard.

sound quality depends largely on the motor structure and cone of the sub...obviously an 18 inch cone will be heavier than a 10 inch so it will be harder to produce quick notes, but if the motor structure is strong enough it can still do so. Many companies have the same motor structures for a 10 and 12 inch model and then a stronger motor for their 15 and 18s. Some even give you options of which motor structure you can use on each (if you want the motor from an 18 on a 10 you can do that sometimes)

in the end there are no better sub sizes for punchy bass or deep bass...there are subs better designed for each but it mainly depends on the box they're in

 

I think the proper term for this site would be "too many *******s have opinions" I mean sometimes there is WAY too much misinformation on here.(not refering to you boomin)

 

Somebody better tell that to the solo X. It has more cone area than most speakers and has been used AND won quite a few SQ comps. Boomin's right except he didn't emphisis install you can have the best sub in the world but if your skillz are lacking then the sub is only that good.

 

I wasnt trying to say that all 15s and 18s are bad. But alot of novices that dont know how to work with them end up making them sound bad. In general 15s and 18s arent as quick as 10s and 12s. Thats not to say some 15s cant hit as fast. Its just my opinion. They make different sizes for a reason. Different sizes USUALLY produce different sounds. Im out. Laterz

How much airspace do 15s and 18s need?Just a extra question.

Nate

 

Generally in life you get what you pay for

 

required airspace always depends on your individual goals and the specs of the sub. sub size means nothing as far as box size

i recently bought a 10 inch beyond audio inhuman that im putting in a wall of about 11 cubic feet with a huge port. Because of the specs of the sub and my goals with this particular install (SPL only) im able to do that without hurting the sub.

for beginners i would suggest going with recommended enclosure designs from the manufacturer.

 

in general 1.5 cuft on the small side and up. Most would like 2 cuft as a minimum

 

the fact that people say bigger subs arent as fast as smaller subs is completely false. if the cone moves slower, its gonna play a different note than its supposed to. this comes up too often. i tend to stick with 12 in subs due to the fact they are easier to install than 15 (finding space in our cars is a difficult task) and tend to have a decent range.

 

a *** set of 15's have that awe inspiring natural strong sound, almost like your there in concert with whoever your listening too, especially when you run them with really clean power, then its just amazing. For the guys that don't think 15's or larger subs are punchy, what do you think live bands play with, 15-21" subs, with double rolled surrounds, and those are extremley punchy, you need alot more power to have a punchy 15 which is at least a minimum of 300 watts rms, of clean .001 % or less distortion with tons of voltage and current to back it up, I have a dayton 15" series two sub with 150 watts of legacy at 8 ohms, and two jensen 6x9s, and although it sounds crude; with the 150 watts rms into the 15, and 55 watts rms into each three way 6x9, my stereo would be louder and pound harder than most guys spending 5-6 times as much on there stereo with aftermarket head units and 2-3 good 12's. So with the right combination of stuff, you can really get a good setup. I don't have my 15 pictured, but thats what was in my '84 cavalier trunk, to give you an idea of what was in it, I was too lazy to paint the board on the far left, cause it was 30* out when I put it in, last winter, this stereo rumbles, every time my friends are in the car and I crank it up, I hear "keith man, your stereo is so fu*kin awesome, it's so clear and defening, its like being at a live concert!"

 

This is the amp portion of my cavalier stereo.

 

ive always wanted to play around with a dayton sub...i hear they're pretty good for the $$...what size box do you have it in?

 

sorry but "good clean power" and "legacy amp" dont belong together. Thats like a hot ice cube.

 

Legacys are one of the only brand of amps out there to put out what its supposed to on a true root mean square meter, and have the distortion it is advertised at, with a 5year warranty, I'm sorry but under some of my own tests, legacys have put out more, than the sonys, rockford fosgate, mtx, and even some orions. My uncle is an electronics engineer, and has built his own amps with over 1200 watts a channel at 8 ohms for his house, and he has tested legacys, and thats what he chooses to run, for there quality, sound, and power output, and no there not a flea market amp, american legacy is.

 

^^Then why do I always see them at flea markets???

 

sure i always see legacy amps at soundoff comps, NOT, Legacy sucks they are simular to pyramid. YOu say you compared them to sony(no comment) and mtx, rf, was the mtx and rf amps connected to power and on during these test? Come on man get real.

 

wow

 

Yeah they were connected, My uncles running 1100 watts continous with his, and puts out just over 143 db's through 250 watts rms into 4 ohms by two 12's in a sealed box, and 4 6x9's, in an 84 cutlass, now come on, how do you argue with an spl digital meter? And a serious meter at that, its quite expensive.
Check it out.

 

heres another

 

and another

 

2 sealed 12s with legacy amps out of a trunk hitting 143...i dunno about that one

what kind of mic was it? there are different kinds, and some that havent been caliberated in a long time can be up to 8 db off

 

HOw bout a big ol , Legacy = JUNK, If i remember correctly the dayton subs are ok subs, but the price isnt too high, Seems like you have a cheap, low cost system, nothing wrong with that, but dont come on here and down some other amps that ALWAYS have and AWAYS will out perform legacy.Like boomin said, whats the brand of mic, what position was it in when you took those numbers?I know a guy with two sealed 12's and a VERY large cadence amp( forget the wattage/wiring sett up) and he doesnt hit those numbers.

 

ill admitt that ive never directly worked with legacy so i have no personal use in the past...but ive been around audio forums for the last 4 years. You hear good products come and go, you hear the best deals come and go aswell. Legacy products have never been mentioned as "quality" products. Even for their price nobody has said they are at all worth it.

if that cutlass is infact hitting 143s on a caliberated mic, then i suggest he puts some sort of big class d amp like an orion 2500 to them and he'll be up near 150.

saying you hav pride in your system is one thing, but claiming that they put out rated power is just insane. How did you test the output of these Legacy amps, when they beat out MTX, RF, sony and even orion?

some people confuse a higher level of distortion with higher SPL

 

I'll get the name of the spl meter tomorrow, thats my uncles car, remember that he's an electronics engineer. He runs some serious **** in that car. Seperate eq, pioneer head, 4 gauge welding wire, and alot of other ****, that makes it sound amazing.

 

Oh yeah, like I said, its a dayton series two 15, In a 2.4 cubic foot box, with about 55% fill, with a custom crossover, although I use the variable one in my car. Those subs are amazing, few companies offer a woofer with a 5yr no nonsense warranty, these 15's pound, I'm going to puy a pair of quatro versions, which is a similar woofer with a 4 ohm voice coil, and a different fs, the fs on the one I run in my cavalier has a 19 hz fs, which is excellent, and the butyl rubber surround coupled with the huge vented magnet and pole piece, just kicks ***. Heres the box in the car.

 

looks like its pretty much the same design as an adire tempest

 

I dont see any eq's. all i see is three legacy amps 4 6x9's , a box and what looks to be cheap, thin speaker wire. , im qeustioning his spl numbers and his false reality that legacy is better than rf,orion etc which is total So far all i see is a cheap install with cheap equipment like i thought it was gonna be. I mean the 4 6x9's across the rear deck is old and ghetto. Also by doing that your cutting alot of metal out of the car. That metal was put there for a reason. You said he works in the electrical field, where does he work?

 

it couldnt sound too amazing if he's running 4 6x9's in the rear

most people who are serious about sound:
1) dont run oval speakers unless they absolutely have to
2) dont run rear speakers because it screws up the soundstage

just because he's an electronics engineer doesnt mean he knows the first thing about car audio. Most things cant be taught, they're only learned by trial and error

 

Exactly, who (that is really into car audio)runs 4 6x9's in a hacked up rear deck? LOL i bet he has one of those cheap 1/2 din eq's too.And i see these stupid guys that work at best buy in the car audio section, they claim to be electronics engineers also.His first couple of posts sound like teenage ramblings, then when he talks about the sub it sounds like he has copied and pasted someone elses words. Sad thing is, this is the typical tgo newbie these days.

 

Guys, getting a little off topic.

It has been generally estalished on this board that Legacy is not a recommended brand, a simple search will prove that.

Chill for a bit until he comes back with some proof or something.

 

NO sorry, guys I'm not a newbie, I just decided to start posting some more on third gen. OH yeah the meter used to read the true rms readings was a velleman 10MHz handheld Oscilloscope and a Neutrik Ml1 Minilizer was used for reading the spl from the drivers seat, at about where you head would be, if you were sitting in the car. Also that when my uncle ordered that cutlass, he ordered it without a stereo, and his car would have come with 4x10s, and when he cut the holes for 6x9s in the 80's that was some of the better equipment, and rather than cut new holes in the sheet metal, he opted to install some new 6x9s from pioneer, there the three ways with horn tweeters and midranges while the speaker wire he used may look cheap its 14 gauge. I don't cut and paste anything that someone else wrote either. The box is 1 1/8 mdf. The eq' is placed under neath the dash, not the trunk. He also has 50,000 Microfarad capacitors across the alternator to get rid of any electrical noise coming from the alternator, you don't need component speakers to have a amazing sound, those horn mid and tweeter 6x9 pioneers sound amazing, and believe me I know there is better stuff. I run infinity kappas and a kenwood head and a pioneer 4 channel amp with 75 watts rms a channel in my formula, and it sounds great.

 

When you go to college, and get an bachelors and masters in engineering, how can you say that your taught by trial and error? And knowing this much about electronics, doesn't mean your the best in car audio, but you will know alot about amps, and be able to look at and test and see whats better, you have alot of gaul talking like that, who died and made you a sound engineer?

 

LOL like i said a cheap dash mounted eq. Dude its . Both the spl numbers and the crappy install. As far as an electrical engineer goes, do a search on this board and see how many people claim to be one. But then NO ONE will actually explain what being intails. Good sound from amazine sound from 4 6x9's amd two 12's? PLEASE! I never said i was a SOUND engineer but im also not a bull**** artist and i've been involved in car audio long enough to know bull**** when i see it. I noticed when the mod said legacy wasnt a good brand you didnt even comment. Im not claiming to have the best sounding system on here, hell i dont even have a front stage. But commonm an, dont come on here bs'in people because it dont work, maybe you'd have better luck at another site.

 

i'm gonna agree with everyone else. 2 sets of 6x9's in the back and running off legacy isnt gonna cut it. from an audio standpoint, running a bunch of speakers across the rear deck is going to completely destroy any chance of a soundstage being correct, let alone you want the music IN FRONT, not in back. second, there is really i do not hold pioneer anywhere near the epitomy of car audio. not saying that its not decent stuff, but nothing spectacular when it comes to their speakers. onto legacy. its well known by anyone who knows what they're talking about that legacy is bottom of the barrel, flee market stuff. only brand worse is pyramid and maybe the copycat brands (rockwood, soundstorm, etc). then i look in the other pics, and i see a jensen amp and radioshack soundprocessors. radioshack stopped carrying car audio for a reason; theirs was horrible. and yes, i've used these brands before (i was once uninformed as well). if you know how to look around and find information, you can find better equipment without breaking the bank. but coming over here and BSing a bunch of people who even have the slightest audio background is not going to get you anywhere.


oh, and i can say i was a sound engineer at one point

 

Okay, guys, too far off topic.