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I am the Polk man!

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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 03:22 AM
  #1  
Frains90RS's Avatar
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From: Long Beach, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3: 305 TBI
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Axle/Gears: 1997 Trans Am rear w/ posi -3.23
I am the Polk man!

Ok, I think I'm finally gonna try and set up my stereo system the way I want it. I've been looking for the longest time for a combination that I think would work, so here's what I got so far:
1) Polk Audio db-460's in the dash with bass blockers-
2) Polk Audio db-690's in the sails -
3) Polk Audio Momo MM104 -OR-
4) Polk Audio Momo MM2104-
5) Kicker KX200.2 bridged-
6) Clarion DXZ545MP head unit -OR-
7) Pioneer DEH-4600P
There! I think I've narrowed it down enough. I work at an electronics store so I get everything with a hefty discount. What do you guys think about what I have set up and do you have any other recommendations(brands/models)? Remember, try to think retail store, I would really prefer to use my discount, since I usually don't.
Thanks,
Efrain.
P.S.- I still dont know what kind of box I'm going to want to put the sub in. I originally wanted to get a fiberglass stealth box in the spare tire location so I still have my trunk space, but now I wouldn't even mind getting a tube or even a truck box right behind the seats. What do you think? Thanks again.

Last edited by Frains90RS; Apr 26, 2004 at 06:30 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 01:38 PM
  #2  
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Car: 83 bird
Engine: 305/383
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I love Polk stuff! I have EX346 4x6"s and I love them! Crank good, don't distort, and have lasted with me using them for 3 years
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Old Apr 23, 2004 | 02:27 PM
  #3  
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
screw kick panels... i was thinking of getting them but they are expensive and i have legs, which just happen to be right where the kicks would go when i drive.... get components and mount the on plates.... id mount the rear speakers in an enclosures on the hump just b4 the dip in the back... the sound will flow better thru the car because it will go and glide off the window and to the front.... im thinking of cutting out the middle of the sails and replacing them with windows
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 06:27 PM
  #4  
Frains90RS's Avatar
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From: Long Beach, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 1997 Trans Am rear w/ posi -3.23
Components.

Hey guys thanks for the input. All the guys I work with in the car audio department recommend Polk(but that might be cause of commission) so thats why I'm going with that brand. I would like to know how difficult would it be to put 4" component speakers in the dash? I can get my hands on the Kicker RS4c's but have been reluctant due to fitting issue and not knowing whether the speakers would work well powered only by the head unit.
Thanks, again.
-Efrain.
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Old Apr 26, 2004 | 07:13 PM
  #5  
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From: abbotsford, bc
Car: 83 z28
Engine: 300hp 355
Transmission: T5
if youre really serious about your soundstage you'll run components up front. preferrably in kick pods or custom glassed door pods that are on a sharp angle. you'll also probably want to run no rear speakers as they will mess up your soundstage and a properly powered component set in the front should be enough mid/high range for most peoples needs

what other brands are you looking at?
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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 07:04 AM
  #6  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by Saigon_Bob
screw kick panels... i was thinking of getting them but they are expensive and i have legs, which just happen to be right where the kicks would go when i drive.... get components and mount the on plates.... id mount the rear speakers in an enclosures on the hump just b4 the dip in the back... the sound will flow better thru the car because it will go and glide off the window and to the front.... im thinking of cutting out the middle of the sails and replacing them with windows
I'm assuming you've never listened to a car with properly designed kick panels, otherwise you'd have a completely different opinion.

The worst thing you can do is point a speaker at a window (subs not included). The combination of reflected and direct energy creates a combing effect on the frequency response and just generally makes a mess. It also diffuses the image. Doing that with the rear speakers will also cause it to sound like you have 1 speaker in the middle instead of a pair. For what little ambiance the rear speakers typically add, the stock sail panels are sufficient, especially if you filter the highs. Of course, I'm with Boomin Boy... I'd rather have no rear speakers at all. They usually just pull back your soundstage.


Anyway... back to why I wanted to respond in the first place:

1) Polk Audio db-460's in the dash with bass blockers-
I would strongly suggest that you buy a head unit that has a built in high-pass filter for the speaker outputs. I know that most of the new Alpines have it, and I suspect that most other brands offer it by now too. This will be far more effective than using bass blockers. Bass blockers (capacitors) filter at a rate of 6dB/octave when the load is a constant, but the impedance (load) of a speaker isn't constant. At the speaker's resonant frequency, the impedance spikes, sometimes to as high as 20 ohms or higher. Since a capacitor's filtering capabilities are impedance dependant, the result is that your bass blocker has very unpredictable results, and in many cases, won't filter the bass out at anywhere near the frequency you expect. Since the resonant frequency of most small speakers is right near the range you're expecting to start your filter at, you wind up with a mess.

When you use the active filter within a head unit, it does the filtering before the amplification stage. It's much more accurate, and also allows the internal amp to focus it's available power output above the cutoff frequencies.

Short story: Try to find a deck that will filter the bass out of the speaker level outputs.
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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 10:11 PM
  #7  
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
I'm assuming you've never listened to a car with properly designed kick panels, otherwise you'd have a completely different opinion.

The worst thing you can do is point a speaker at a window (subs not included). The combination of reflected and direct energy creates a combing effect on the frequency response and just generally makes a mess. It also diffuses the image. Doing that with the rear speakers will also cause it to sound like you have 1 speaker in the middle instead of a pair. For what little ambiance the rear speakers typically add, the stock sail panels are sufficient, especially if you filter the highs. Of course, I'm with Boomin Boy... I'd rather have no rear speakers at all. They usually just pull back your soundstage.


Anyway... back to why I wanted to respond in the first place:



I would strongly suggest that you buy a head unit that has a built in high-pass filter for the speaker outputs. I know that most of the new Alpines have it, and I suspect that most other brands offer it by now too. This will be far more effective than using bass blockers. Bass blockers (capacitors) filter at a rate of 6dB/octave when the load is a constant, but the impedance (load) of a speaker isn't constant. At the speaker's resonant frequency, the impedance spikes, sometimes to as high as 20 ohms or higher. Since a capacitor's filtering capabilities are impedance dependant, the result is that your bass blocker has very unpredictable results, and in many cases, won't filter the bass out at anywhere near the frequency you expect. Since the resonant frequency of most small speakers is right near the range you're expecting to start your filter at, you wind up with a mess.

When you use the active filter within a head unit, it does the filtering before the amplification stage. It's much more accurate, and also allows the internal amp to focus it's available power output above the cutoff frequencies.

Short story: Try to find a deck that will filter the bass out of the speaker level outputs.
i guess i gotta sit in a camaro with kicks to see if mah big@$$ legs block the sound like i think it will....
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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 10:14 PM
  #8  
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From: dallas tx
they will block your legs, but will still sound light years ahead of almost any other arrangement in a 3rd gen.

adam
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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 10:20 PM
  #9  
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
so should i get 4in components (i was thinking 4in and 6.5in components in the stock locations) or what size... and u say kicks are worth $200 each cuz i sure as hell are gunna try makeing them
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 12:46 AM
  #10  
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From: dallas tx
4 inch speaker do a really ****ty job of creating full range sound. hell.



adam
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 01:00 PM
  #11  
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From: Long Beach, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 1997 Trans Am rear w/ posi -3.23
Originally posted by Boomin Boy
if youre really serious about your soundstage you'll run components up front. preferrably in kick pods or custom glassed door pods that are on a sharp angle. you'll also probably want to run no rear speakers as they will mess up your soundstage and a properly powered component set in the front should be enough mid/high range for most peoples needs
what other brands are you looking at?
Right now the main brands Im looking at are Kicker, Infinity, and Polk. Thanks to the responses in this thread, I've done a little more research and I think components in the kicks sound like a good idea. Now what would be better: kick pods with 6 1/2's and tweeters or kick pods with 5 1/4's and tweeters, plus
6 1/2's in the sails? Any models to recommend in the brands I listed above?
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
When you use the active filter within a head unit, it does the filtering before the amplification stage. It's much more accurate, and also allows the internal amp to focus it's available power output above the cutoff frequencies.
Short story: Try to find a deck that will filter the bass out of the speaker level outputs.
Can you recommend a good place to learn more about the specs on car audio? I've always gone to Crutchfield.com to get any necessary specs I've needed.

Thanks guys.:hail:
-Efrain
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 01:51 PM
  #12  
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From: Readsboro, VT
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Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
what kind of "specs"? Other than finding out what size speakers your car has stock, crutchfield is useless.

By the way, stop looking at specific brands and start listening to them. It doesn't matter who makes it. All that matters is how it sounds, and the difference from one speaker to the next is HUGE in the car audio world. Even from one line to the next, and from one size to the next, within a particular brand, they can vary wildly.

In addition to those brands, I'd try to find some JL Audio, Boston Acoustics, Alpine, MB Quart and cdt components to listen to.
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Old Apr 28, 2004 | 08:40 PM
  #13  
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 357cid
Transmission: T5 Swap
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 7.5" 3.23 soon to be 3.73
im for the idea of 6.5 in components w/ tweets in kicks.... find some prefab kicks that hold 6.5s and post it cuz i cant find any
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 12:08 AM
  #14  
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From: DFW
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G80 3.23
No, IM the polk man

Everything in my truck is polk.
The subs sound AWESOME, but the tweeters in the oversized 6.5 inch package get really (REALLY) high. Almost hurts my ears. Even with the treble halfway down, it still just is too bright. I noticed that with polk.
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Old May 11, 2004 | 03:18 AM
  #15  
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From: Long Beach, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 1997 Trans Am rear w/ posi -3.23
DANM IT!

As of yesterday I have a new reason to want a new set up in my car. Bastards!
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Old May 11, 2004 | 09:16 AM
  #16  
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From: menasha wi
Car: 87 TA
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Originally posted by Saigon_Bob
i guess i gotta sit in a camaro with kicks to see if mah big@$$ legs block the sound like i think it will....
im 6' 5" and the componets still sound awesome, also, find a nice 2 ch or 4 ch amp to run them
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Old May 11, 2004 | 11:07 AM
  #17  
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From: DFW
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G80 3.23
Re: DANM IT!

Originally posted by Frains90RS
As of yesterday I have a new reason to want a new set up in my car. Bastards!
Man sorry to hear about that. Its happened to me so many times in so many different vehicles I have lost count.
Moving out of this city in a month. Im almost certain my new home is a better area.
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Old May 19, 2004 | 01:06 AM
  #18  
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From: Long Beach, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 1997 Trans Am rear w/ posi -3.23
Originally posted by Boomin Boy
if youre really serious about your soundstage you'll run components up front. preferrably in kick pods or custom glassed door pods that are on a sharp angle. you'll also probably want to run no rear speakers as they will mess up your soundstage and a properly powered component set in the front should be enough mid/high range for most peoples needs
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
Of course, I'm with Boomin Boy... I'd rather have no rear speakers at all. They usually just pull back your soundstage.
Could this pulling back of the soundstage be alleviated by a 6 1/2"
coaxial speaker with a swiveling tweeter?
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