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what are the best subs..........

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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 06:19 PM
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what are the best subs..........

What are the best subs for somebody with not a lot of cash??

I want new subs, but i ain't got a lot of cash...........

NEED SUGGESTIONS....
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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You've got about a million and twelve choices.

Let's narrow it down. What's your speaker budget, what amp are you using to push the subs, and do you want mostly sound quality, mostly SPL, or a mix of both? What music do you listen to?
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 08:14 PM
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I don't really have a budget what i need i will find a way to get. I had a problem with a amp i bought at a certain audio shop. Let's just say it was burnt up when i got it. But my cousin gave me an amp for now. Just need a better system.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 08:27 PM
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Originally posted by Snoman
I don't really have a budget what i need i will find a way to get. I had a problem with a amp i bought at a certain audio shop. Let's just say it was burnt up when i got it. But my cousin gave me an amp for now. Just need a better system.
okay well that still doesnt really answer the question. what kind of amplifier is it. i mean, i could give you an amp that says its 1000watts but in reallity it will only push like 150 at its best.

second, you obviously need to have a budget or a price factor in which determines what subs will you be able to afford.

"the best subs" is a joke. there is no absolute best sub or brand. there are better qualities of subs, of course. but it depends on the person buying them. depends what they are looking for and what music they listen to and just all around what they want.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 08:32 PM
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Sorry, under $700 I now have a Pioneer 200 watt amp in it , and i listen to rap & rock. I like the hard hitting bass, but it has to sound good also.

Mabey that will tie up the loose ends.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 09:11 PM
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alpine type-r 12"
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 01:03 AM
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pioneer 200watt amp huh... and your trying to power subs with that?

well.. umm... your gonna need a new/better amplifier. if you'd like, i have 3 extra amps i dont use that all have warranties on them. email me at xabercrombie908x@yahoo.com for info and pictures.

any suggestion of sub, i have and recommend JL audio to anyone looking. go maybe one 12" w3v2 or so. thats going to cost you around. $250 per sub.

it really depends on what kind and WHERE you get a better amplifier from. because your 200watt pioneer amp is probably rms'ing around 120watts. at best. (i was told by an audio place that an easy way to figure out how many watts an amp has is to multiply the stock fuse number by 10. and thats what it can actually do) now i actually dont know if thats true or not, but it can give you a rough idea.
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 01:11 AM
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also the newer jl audio w1v2's sound decent. nothing compared to a w3v2, but the w1's are more entry level jl audio. they sound decent though if powered and put in the correct box.
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 07:33 AM
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Plan on splitting that $700 between subs and an amp. What you may want to do for now is spend most of that on the amp, and just buy one good sub. Down the road, you can buy the second sub.

Anything from Adire, Ascendant, or Resonant Engineering should give you a great bang for the buck. There's a lot of buzz about the Ascendant Atlas subs right now, and they are quite inexpensive.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 11:11 PM
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http://www.tweeter.com/product/index...entPage=family

http://www.tweeter.com/product/index...entPage=family

There ya go, $600. Your car already wired and everything for an amp? You got a box for subs or sub? Wiring and box like be like another $100 probably.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 08:48 AM
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Originally posted by ryanL04
i was told by an audio place that an easy way to figure out how many watts an amp has is to multiply the stock fuse number by 10.
watts=volts*amps

so say you have about 14V from the battery and your fuse is rated at 20 amps, you would theoretically get 280 watts from the amp (now there are lots of things wrong with this, but it will give you a good estimate).
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 09:29 AM
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Keep in mind that most class A/B amps are only around 40% to 50% efficient. The other 50% of the input power is dissipated as heat.

Class D switching amps have a much higher efficiency (up to 90% in some cases).

For normal amps, use the V*A equation, then divide by 2 for a rough estimate.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 12:27 AM
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Originally posted by sesand
watts=volts*amps

so say you have about 14V from the battery and your fuse is rated at 20 amps, you would theoretically get 280 watts from the amp (now there are lots of things wrong with this, but it will give you a good estimate).
that statement can be fooled sometimes though too. my digital cap tells me that on average i run a consistant 13.94 -14.35 volts to my amp that has an 80 amp fuse in it. that doesnt mean im actually using that. although i have do have a 1000watt mono class-d amplifier. so i know its putting out a good amount.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:20 AM
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Originally posted by Jim85IROC
Keep in mind that most class A/B amps are only around 40% to 50% efficient. The other 50% of the input power is dissipated as heat.

Class D switching amps have a much higher efficiency (up to 90% in some cases).

For normal amps, use the V*A equation, then divide by 2 for a rough estimate.
ok, so now I'm curious. my class a/b phoenix gold amp claims 250W RMS at 14.4V and has a 30 amp fuse.

14.4*30=432
250/432=0.58

so 58% efficiency. now i'm wondering, is the amp really that efficient, or does it really not put out what it claims?
i realize that fuses don't blow right when they hit the current their specified for. it varies depending on current with time, such that the higher the current is over the rating, the less time before it blows.
so let's say that it is only 50% efficient, giving 216W RMS.
is it possible that the amp could be rated for an RMS that would need a current slightly above it's rated value, since the fuse won't blow for a certain amount of time? seems like that is cutting it a bit close. even still, i think 58% is possible, since PG has a pretty good reputation.
now, what blows my mind is that the amp came w/ a 30 amp fuse (which is what the crutchfield website says and so that is what i used for these calculations), but the manual specifies a 25 amp fuse! doing those calculations, it would need to be 69% efficient.
does anybody still think i'm getting 250W RMS (even with the assumption that i'm getting the 14.4V to the amp)???
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:37 AM
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Originally posted by ryanL04
on average i run a consistant 13.94 -14.35 volts to my amp that has an 80 amp fuse in it. that doesnt mean im actually using that.
if im missing the point here, please explain, but it seems that you're only stating the obvious here: your amp doesn't always use the full amount of current that it is rated for.....

i'm not trying to be a jerk, i just wanted to clarify. sweet setup by the way (not a fan of the hood paint job, but to each his own). what kind of an alternator do you have?
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 11:32 AM
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Originally posted by sesand
(not a fan of the hood paint job, but to each his own).
haha. im not a fan of the black hood either. i bought it primer black. i havnt gotten around to repainting it yet because instead of just matching the hood white like the rest of the car, i want to change the color of the entire car. so therefor it hasnt been done yet due to the fact i keep spending money on other things rather than an estimated 5 thousand doller paint job.

iyeah i dont beleive my amp is always pushing out a supposed 1000watt amp to my subs. dont get me wrong its p ushin a lot, but yeah i dont believe its actually pushing its full power. i run two 105amp alternators. 2 car batteries, and a digital cap on top of all that. my power supply is consistant and very stable.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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do you have a picture of the alternators / batteries? i haven't seen a car with dual alternators. i'm interested to see how it was done.
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 04:32 AM
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Memphis car audio all the way!!
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