alright i sold my sealed box and want to build a ported box for my L5 solobarics but want to see pics of boxes ever with circles just to get an idea of how they look in the back.

i also need to know how i should make my port when i build the new box so i get it right. so far it says the port needs to be 3 inches by 13.25 tall by 14 deep. but how big for 2 of them. any help would be greatly appreciated

 

ill have finished pics in a day or two. 4.2 cubic ft tuned to 30 hz with 2 12's. over 2000 watts rms

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...uild-pics.html

 

anyone else id like to start on mny new box either tomarrow or wednesday

 

don't. plan it out THOROUGHLY first. this is not an easy undertaking. the only other person i can think of who's built a ported box for dual woofers is jim85iroc, and that guy has years and years of experience. before you cut anything, get yourself some engineering pads, grid paper. draw out all the pieces you'll need to cut. be prepared for a lot of frustration.

you need to know the EXACT volume of the box, and what type of volume and tuning your woofers like to see. the ports also need to be pretty precise.

are those l5's 10's or 12's? if they're 15's, forget about it. im assuming its 2 of them.

 

ive actually already build 3 of boxes for them so i know the sizes of the peices. the only thing i am wondering about is what size my port is supposed to be and where i should put it. in the middle pointing striaght down or slanted or what

its for 2 L5 12's. the volume of the box is precisely 2.1 cubic foot per sub

 

you've built 3 boxes for third gen's or for l5's?

if you mean for the l5's, and are talking about a standard trunk box, a third gen box is completely different. the hatch is not very port friendly.

if you mean third gen boxes, its quite a bit more difficult than a sealed box.

if you've built 3 ported third gen boxes, then you shouldnt have needed to post here. my ports are 2 4 inch precision ports, round flared tubes. they go in the decklid section, firing forward. i could find no other place with enough depth to fit them. a slot port, i wouldnt even know, i pretty much ruled that out as entirely too difficult to design and make fit. jim85iroc is really the guy you need to be talking to, he knows a lot more about ported boxes and the acoustic characteristics of third gens than i do.

 

yes ive built 3 thirdgen boxes but they all have been sealed thats why i am having a hard problem figuring out what to do with the port

 

I have done a ported box for a pair of subs, but they were 8s a whole lot easier than the mammoth project that 1mean is doing. Do alot of research on how to build ported boxes, in general they aren't to hard but in a 3rd gen they are a bit more complicated

 

ill throw up a pic of my ports, check back in a sec.

 

I think that what Mean is trying to say is that it takes a good amount of design work to build a nice ported box. Ported boxes are a lot more unforgiving than sealed and they require a good deal of tuning (done through port manipulation) when you're designing one. You must know the exact T/S of your woofer(s) and the exact box volume.

All this is pretty easy to do for your conventional car that you can simply toss a square box into with little to no size constraints. It becomes a bit harder when you deal with the weird shapes most of us end up building to fit in the hatch. Port area and length also become problematic because most of the time the ports have to be longer than the box is deep. The only reason why Mean is able to pull off ported is because he built a 4+ cube enclosure.

 

which is another reason you want to think "do i really want to do this" especially if your car is fast.

i betting the box with subs and amps will be over 150 pounds. even with the sealed box, it sat quite a bit lower in the rear than front. i pulled it out and was like "damn this things fun to drive." doesnt make a HUGE difference in the acceleration, couple 1/10ths maybe which isnt that big a deal when you run mid 11's on spray, but the handling is greatly affected.

 

my car isn;t fast and nor do i plan on it being for a year or so. now back to ports. i need help with them

 

like i said, your best bet is aeroports like mine. a slot port is going be a hell of a lot harder to implement into the box. build the box, find out the exact volume, then we can tell you the length the ports need to be.

my box is 4.2 cubic feet net, which means after the displacement of the subs and the ports, and i have 2 17 inch long 4 inch wide flared ports. should be roughly a 30 hz tune.

 

Pretty much what mean said. Figure out your box volume then we will tell you what to tune it to so you can have a more or less flat curve. Ideally you would choose your subwoofer first so that you can design your box around its T/S parameters.

 

did you go ahead with this project?

 

no i havn;'t started im still waiting for a check from the guy that bought my old box thats in it. that is what is funding this but im not exactly sure what im going to do anymore. i may just take it all out and put a single 12 in there with a small box and put my kickers in the s10 i plan on getting. but its all up in the air right now

 

Design a box, then call the manufacture (Stillwater) and tell them the specs.

Tell them what car, what the cabin gain of the car is (IIRC, third gens are ~60Hz), and how much power you'll be using. They will tell you what frequency to tune for and what size ports you'll need.

They'll know better than anyone.