good idea?
i mean my 12inch sub shakes my back hatch window alot. i dont want to break it. but my 12 wont hit those low low notes like i want. any ideas?

oh and right now i have my back seats down and a normal sub box.

 

I have 15" subs in my car but they are rated 800 watts RMS and I have a 500 watt amp bridged running them with no problems and I used plywood for a shelf to put them in and the hatch well as the box . I haven't covered the shelf yet but it works .

 

guarantee you, you wont break the glass with a 15 - too many other areas for air to leak out first. as for not hitting the low notes, what do you have for a sub and what size is the box. the wrong size box can make all the difference

 

Sounds like a new item for 1A sub boxes for these cars!!

 

^ i wish... i cant find a flush mount hatch well box anywhere and i dont have the tools/know how to build one.

 

haha, the can o worms this would open up for me.... getting sub specs, calculating space needs, sealed vs ported, I think I'd cry. Then comes the weight and size of these things for shipping (especially if done right with mdf or marine plywood), I think you might cry when you see the cost.

there's definitely a box schematic kicking around these boards somewhere with a good set of dimensions. I used that as starting point for my last half-well box.

 

Thanks for letting me know its out there, ill start trying to track it down, maybe even buy some tools to do it. Buying a sub box is cheaper than getting a finger reattached though lol.

Sorry if i hijacked the thread

Mind if i ask what type of 12's you have? A good 12 should get plenty low. Is it ported? if it is, whats it tuned to?

 

I have 2 JL W3s, and a 500 watt mono TMA amp. They POUND!!! The reason you dont get the lows is it Could be the wrong size box, could be the power wire is too small, or maybe the speaker wire, everything plays a factor. By the way sonicelectronix has a sub box for 3rd gens for like $100ish I think shippinig is like $30. The box goes all the way into the well. Looks nice... Anyways back to the topic, i think 2 12s would be the way to go.

 

I have acouple vids of hatch glass flexing around 22 hz or so at low volume. I've never had an issue. You're more likely to crack the horrible design hatch pull-down motor housing where the 3 screws bolt into the plastic housing before you come close to shattering a hatch window.

It's going to take some serious placement to get the 15" XXX to fit. You're going to need a custom box for it. There isn't a cookie cutter box that will fit it IMO. They are insanely large.... That's 13.5" of mounting depth compared to my 18" Kicker CVRs that were only 9.75" of depth.

15"
Mounting Depth - 13.5"
Mounting Hole Diameter - 14.5"
Overall Diameter - 16"
Bolt Hole Circle - 15.25"
Motor Width - 10.5"
Motor Depth - 5"
Basket Depth - 8.5"
Displacement - 0.27 cu. ft.
Weight - 76 lbs

15"
Sealed: 1.6 (compact) 2.1 (optimal)
ported: 3.2@35Hz (compact) 4.0@33Hz (optimal)

 

i have 2 kenwood kfc-3012 12's.
bought new from store like 60bucks each. they dont flex i know that. but i was trying to watch my money.

then for a amp i have a rockford fosgate prime 500:1.
and its a normal audio enhancers box for a trunk. but i put my seats down and put it their.

and also its sealed.

 

It's deffinately the box if you can't hit low notes with two twelves...

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjcnD9lX4dM

0:14-0:20

thats the lows i cant hit..

but 0:20-0:23 hits hard! are you sure its the box?
the guys who put it in said i need a 15 to drop down that far. or could it be just my subs?

 

Guarantee you, you wont break the glass with a 15 - too many other areas for air to leak out first. as for not hitting the low notes, what do you have for a sub and what size is the box. the wrong size box can make all the difference.
____________________________________________
Soundproofing
Sound Proofing

 

i have 2 kenwod kfc-3012 12inch.
standard car trunk box u can get anywhere but i will measure tomorrow.
with a rockford fosgate 500:1 amp.

 

i do have a 6 gauge power wire. but i really dont want to change it out if i dont have too. if it helps i have a 4 gauge ground lol.

 

You have a smaller power wire than ground wire? lol. I would say its either the box or subs, I'm not knowledgable on kenwood subs.

only thing i can think is the box, or your pushing 2 400 watt subs with a 500 watt amp?
And in case others wanna chime in and not have to look up specs.

Kenwood KFC-W3012
Minimum Volume: 75 cubic feet
Maximum Volume 1.75 cubic feet

Audio Enhancers Subbox
1.27 cubic feet per sub (Angled box, I've heard some nice systems set up in these.)

 

i have an AE box. 1.0 cubic ft. http://www.audioenhancers.com/sealed/cs12f.php

looks like it.. and can u guys hit the low notes in that song i linked at 0:14 - 0:19??

 

Oh sorry.... i thought you had the audio enhancers box for camaros/firebirds... i had 2 12 inch re audio srx12's and it played that song fine.

The song i play to test how my subs sound = Three six mafia - Late night tip

 

ahh ok. so would you recommend me getting that rear hatch box then? and that will make the difference?

 

You would be alot closer to the sweet spot of what that sub likes, and some people (most people) how an angled hatch box is back and firing at the window... resonates, or something. and sounds better. That stuffs over my head though so i wont attempt to explain it.

I know for a fact the angled hatch box is gonna sound better than a truck box sittin in u rear seats though. But that might not be your only problem, You should wait for others to respond before you go spend money.

 

this was a temporally thing only.... and another question u might know..
i was looking into ground zero 12's..
the dude said 700w rms and 1000w spl.
what the hell is "SPL"?

 

Sound pressure level?, its basically how they measure how "hard you're hitting"

I dont know why someone would tell you... 1000w SPL, that doesnt even make sense? Maybe hes saying the sub can handle 1000 watts in bursts? When you're competing you burp the frequency your box is tuned at? i believe. for like 1-3 seconds. maybe thats what he means?

 

i have two 15s in my car... you wont regret it.. i love em

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pji6D-t10Sw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rC9zs9DZGFE

 

I'd take a vid of my 18s but I'm to lazy, my fan relay is blown, and I have power issues I suck the system dry with 2 JBL BP 1200 watt rms amps. Once I get over 14 vol on the HU alternator can't keep up. It does enough to rattle the windows when there all the way up and will vibrate a quarter around on the roof. I've even seen the hatch glass vibrate a little.

If you're looking at making anything decent you need a good power wire. I used 0 AWG all the way back. I was running a seperate yellow top for awhile helped a little with reserves but I really need to just upgrade the Alternator, 105 AMP overdriven 15%, isn't keeping up the draw.