sub installation
sub installation
i have no idea how to wire my amp and single 12 inch sub.. are there any charts i can refer to or any suggestions on how to wire it to batter and speakers/ radio?
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: sub installation
1) there will be a signal wire from the head unit that runs to the amp to turn it on - you'll have to refer to your head unit instructions for that wire color - usually blue.
2) There will be RCA jacks on the rear of your head unit - this is wiring for the sound to the amp - you'll need those cables (any stereo store) - I'd get 20ft to have plenty to route however you like.
3) amp gets 12v+ directly from battery on a large wire (like 4 guage, 2 guage, or even 0 guage). It's most critical that this wire be routed and protected so that there's never ever any chance of it grounding anywhere on the car. You can either drill a hole through the firewall, or maybe get lucky and run it through an existing hole where the radio antenna wire runs out to the fender. I drilled through pass side, just below where the pass wiring harness connects from inside to outside. I drilled a hole twice the size of my amp wire, sanded/filed all the burrs from the hole, and wrapped my amp wire in 3/8" fuel line about 6 inches long where it feeds through this hole - that way I got an extremely tight fit, and the amp wire has an extra 1/4 inch of insulation (the fuel hose) around it.
4) Once in the trunk, the amp gets a ground wire to anywhere on the c ar - just drill a hole in the spare tire area into the metal, sand the paint from around the hole, and put a screw through the connector.
5) then wire the speaker wires from the amp to the sub.
6) don't forget a fuse, between the battery and the amp wire - you want the fuse as close to the battery as possible (like within the first foot of wire). Usually a 100 amp fuse in a small plastic mount (just mount it to the fender under the hood).
The fuse, and the routing/protecting of the amp wire is essential. That wire ... if ever touches a ground, can create a short strong enough to make the battery explode, which makes a nasty nasty fire killing the car forever more.
2) There will be RCA jacks on the rear of your head unit - this is wiring for the sound to the amp - you'll need those cables (any stereo store) - I'd get 20ft to have plenty to route however you like.
3) amp gets 12v+ directly from battery on a large wire (like 4 guage, 2 guage, or even 0 guage). It's most critical that this wire be routed and protected so that there's never ever any chance of it grounding anywhere on the car. You can either drill a hole through the firewall, or maybe get lucky and run it through an existing hole where the radio antenna wire runs out to the fender. I drilled through pass side, just below where the pass wiring harness connects from inside to outside. I drilled a hole twice the size of my amp wire, sanded/filed all the burrs from the hole, and wrapped my amp wire in 3/8" fuel line about 6 inches long where it feeds through this hole - that way I got an extremely tight fit, and the amp wire has an extra 1/4 inch of insulation (the fuel hose) around it.
4) Once in the trunk, the amp gets a ground wire to anywhere on the c ar - just drill a hole in the spare tire area into the metal, sand the paint from around the hole, and put a screw through the connector.
5) then wire the speaker wires from the amp to the sub.
6) don't forget a fuse, between the battery and the amp wire - you want the fuse as close to the battery as possible (like within the first foot of wire). Usually a 100 amp fuse in a small plastic mount (just mount it to the fender under the hood).
The fuse, and the routing/protecting of the amp wire is essential. That wire ... if ever touches a ground, can create a short strong enough to make the battery explode, which makes a nasty nasty fire killing the car forever more.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,041
Likes: 8
From: West of Toronto
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI / ZZ4 cam
Transmission: Stage 2 700R4, LS1 driveshaft
Axle/Gears: Strange 3.42 w/ Auburn
Re: sub installation
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