Anyone good with it? I'm lookin to get a good sound system but have a few questions.

I'm looking to get two of these subs (Rockford fosgate t1d4-12)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-T1D412.html#

I want them wired to 2 OHMs.
The RMS on them is 800, but many tests say it can be 20% over with no issue. So I was thinking of setting them to 900RMS each.


Planning on this box;
http://caraudiofactory.com/19841992-...unk-p-132.html
The subwoofers are made for 1.25 cubic feet in a solid box, and these are 1.92 each side so after displacement will I still have enough room? Or should I use poly fill, is there any other options? Will I new to reinforce the center brace so the box won't break with the pressure?


This is the amp I was looking at ( power acoustik d1-6000D)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...D1-6000D.html#
It's a one channel amp, can it handle the two subwoofers on one channel? The wattage Is no issue as I can raise each sub to 900RMS and be at 1800 total.
Is there a better amp choice? Should I go with two?

Will I be needing dynomat? What speaker wire should I use for way quality sound?

As for power, I'll be needing an upgrade. The car is an 84 firebird stock v6

Capacitor choice; 3.5 farad
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ack-w-Red.html

Alternator;
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-67294
Is there a better option?

Is there a specific battery I shoul buy too? Or is all this ok?


Receiver;
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDAH...9.html?tp=5684


After the sub system is in I'll be looking at upgrading my speakers and cutting into my doors, and some kick panels.

 

The speakers and box will be fine to use the way they are with nothing filled inside the box. Just mount them in the box and install in the car. The amp seems to be a good amp and with 2 of those duel 4 ohm speakers, you can wire them to 1 ohm for max power but I dont think that the speakers will handle 3500 watts rms for a long period of time or a peak of 6000 watts to many times as long as the claims of the amp manufacture is true on wattage which usually they arent. You can turn the gain down on the amp to compinsate. The radio looks nice and is usually a personal preference. I would ditch the capacitor and buy 2 dry cell batterys. I like optima red tops or yellow tops myself. 1 up front and 1 in the back. If your alternator is good right now, I wouldnt worry about buying the upgraded one. Save your money for something else.

 

Any suggestions on the amp than?

 

Jermdm; I definitely agree with your suggestion of getting a second dry cell battery like the optima red/yellow top. But I would like to interject a little information concerning the capacitor.

It is false comfort that 'having a capacitor will take all of the strain off of your alternator'; unfortunately people, shops and word of mouth have stressed the usage of capacitors for only some of the right reasons. Having a capacitor in conjunction with a second dry cell battery would be the route to go though. Capacitors do help with sudden power consumption for very short periods of time, but they are not good for constant power consumption. They do, however, help eliminate electrical noise (i.e. from the electrical system, more importantly the alternator). Now, I am not saying that this noise will be seriously noticed; you will probably notice more noise if you run your RCA wires right next to the 12v power cable, but I am just saying that a capacitor would not exactly hurt.

However, (and I'm assuming that I'm going to go down the same thought path as Jermdm) you are better off focusing on the Big 3 when it comes to your vehicle's electrical system

1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)

2) Battery Negative to Chassis

3) Chassis to Engine Block

Replacing/adding larger wire to these three critical spots can reduce or rid your electrical system of dimming [voltage drops]. Overall, giving your charging system a larger surface area to travel over, this should stabilize power and relieve strain on the alternator and battery.

Hope this "book" helps lol.

 

Sorry almost forgot about your amp; I personally have never used that amp or anything from power acoustik. Judging by the specs, I would have to agree with Jermdm, it looks like a good amp. The only other thing that I would suggest for the price, would be the Audiobahn Murdered Out amp. I picked mine up online for $200 and I can't complain about the performance.

If you want to look into it, you can check it out here.

 

The RMS on them is 800, but many tests say it can be 20% over with no issue. So I was thinking of setting them to 900RMS each.

no issues there just make sure your gain settings are not all the way up easy way to blow a speaker


Planning on this box;
http://caraudiofactory.com/19841992-...unk-p-132.html
The subwoofers are made for 1.25 cubic feet in a solid box, and these are 1.92 each side so after displacement will I still have enough room? Or should I use poly fill, is there any other options? Will I new to reinforce the center brace so the box won't break with the pressure?

poly fill makes the box seem bigger then what it is due to the air being slowed down.
it will take alot to brake a box even a poorly built box at worst you might have air leaks unless its just held together with gum but you need to ask your self do you like ported or seald box you choose goes hand and hand with the bass you like ie deep or punchy

This is the amp I was looking at ( power acoustik d1-6000D)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...D1-6000D.html#
It's a one channel amp, can it handle the two subwoofers on one channel? The wattage Is no issue as I can raise each sub to 900RMS and be at 1800 total.
Is there a better amp choice? Should I go with two?

i personally perfer two channel as there is more options when you want to upgrade subs in future one you are limiting your choice of subwoofer

Will I be needing dynomat? What speaker wire should I use for way quality sound?

it helps direct the sound and keep it in the car is it need not really
you want to use high quality speaker wire it makes a world of difference the size of wire it depends on watts you want to run always get a bigger gage wire that way if you upgrade amp there be no issues

As for power, I'll be needing an upgrade. The car is an 84 firebird stock v6

Capacitor choice; 3.5 farad
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ack-w-Red.html

it helps if your using stock battery if you upgrade battery then not needed ie optima

Alternator;
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-67294
Is there a better option?

is it needed ? unless your going to straight bass competion stock alt is fine but it does make a difference but you have to upgrade all supporting electrical stuff because amp can over charge your battery trust me i know personal experance

Is there a specific battery I shoul buy too? Or is all this ok?


Receiver;
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDAH...9.html?tp=5684


After the sub system is in I'll be looking at upgrading my speakers and cutting into my doors, and some kick panels

ive had 2 12in jl audio w6 using a keenwood amp and alpline headunit in a ported box inside of home use shake and set off car alarms couple 100 feet away