Kicker Amp Problems????
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
From: Johnstown, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
Kicker Amp Problems????
Has anyone had any problems with Kicker amps? Until recently, I have had no problems. My daiy driver has 2 of the older ones that are running great, and the 160ss is running at 2ohm bridged!(Rated for 4ohm bridged)
My situation is like this:
I bought a Solo-Baric S12L7, and put it in a box. I then bought a DX700 class D amp. I bought the calss D because of it's efficiency - low current draw. Hooked it all up and it was awesome! Next day, I went out to leave, and no sub! I took a look and the protection LED had come on. I turned it off and back on about 10 times and it worked again. Took it to the shop I bought it from, and was going to leave with it, thinking it was a fluke, and it quit again. Replaced it in the parking lot and it played fine for a couple weeks. In the meantime, I got a ZX460 for my mids and highs, and one of the channels failed after about 3 seconds! They replaced it with 2 ZR120's and I'm happy again!
Well it doesn't end there. Last weekend, I was showing it off a bit, and I had it kinda' cranked, and the amp shut down. Protection light came on, and it never played a sound again. At this point, I was thinking I must be an idiot, and can't install an amp! Just to prove that wrong, I took the car to the shop today, and had them replace the amp, check the wiring, etc. He even checked the sub out. Everything checked out fine, and I left with it sounding awesome again. We played it for 5-10 mins, and I left. I got about 10 minutes away and the sub quit again! I wasn't even cranking on it! Went back to the shop, and they are just dumbfounded about this. They have never seen this from Kicker! They are contacting Kicker to see what it could be (before I kill another amp!)
Has anyone else seen this? They have done some installs with the DX350 with no problems. I could go with like a ZR600 or something, but I wanted the class D for the low current draw. My next idea is to go with 2 DX350's, since my sub is a dual voice coil, but I'd rather stay with 1 amp.
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
My situation is like this:
I bought a Solo-Baric S12L7, and put it in a box. I then bought a DX700 class D amp. I bought the calss D because of it's efficiency - low current draw. Hooked it all up and it was awesome! Next day, I went out to leave, and no sub! I took a look and the protection LED had come on. I turned it off and back on about 10 times and it worked again. Took it to the shop I bought it from, and was going to leave with it, thinking it was a fluke, and it quit again. Replaced it in the parking lot and it played fine for a couple weeks. In the meantime, I got a ZX460 for my mids and highs, and one of the channels failed after about 3 seconds! They replaced it with 2 ZR120's and I'm happy again!
Well it doesn't end there. Last weekend, I was showing it off a bit, and I had it kinda' cranked, and the amp shut down. Protection light came on, and it never played a sound again. At this point, I was thinking I must be an idiot, and can't install an amp! Just to prove that wrong, I took the car to the shop today, and had them replace the amp, check the wiring, etc. He even checked the sub out. Everything checked out fine, and I left with it sounding awesome again. We played it for 5-10 mins, and I left. I got about 10 minutes away and the sub quit again! I wasn't even cranking on it! Went back to the shop, and they are just dumbfounded about this. They have never seen this from Kicker! They are contacting Kicker to see what it could be (before I kill another amp!)
Has anyone else seen this? They have done some installs with the DX350 with no problems. I could go with like a ZR600 or something, but I wanted the class D for the low current draw. My next idea is to go with 2 DX350's, since my sub is a dual voice coil, but I'd rather stay with 1 amp.
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I dunno dude. Generally Kicker equipment has been very reliable. When they first came out with the ZR line, they had a problem with the 600's cooking FETs. Mine was one of the victims, and it even scorched my deck in the process (12volts up the RCA lines=BAD). Since I got it back I've had no problems of any kind.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
Where are you mounting these amps? Are they getting proper airflow across the heatsinks? Try installing some fans if airflow is at a minimum.
------------------
1989 Iroc-Z L98 Original engine-58K miles!!
SLP 1 3/4 SS headers, Hooker Areochamber catback, no cat, BBK AFPR, Hypertech 160* fan switch, ported and gasket matched plenum, TB coolant bypass, relocated MAT sensor, screenless MAF sensor, K&N filters, Accel cap and rotor, Taylor SpiroPro 8mm wires, Bosch Platinum plugs, Mobil 1 Synthetic 15W50 motor oil, and more to come...
Best ET- 14.24@96.76MPH / 2.17 60ft on street tires with the crappy B/W 2.77 gears.
Homepage currently under construction: http://www.iit.edu/~wicktho/len
------------------
1989 Iroc-Z L98 Original engine-58K miles!!
SLP 1 3/4 SS headers, Hooker Areochamber catback, no cat, BBK AFPR, Hypertech 160* fan switch, ported and gasket matched plenum, TB coolant bypass, relocated MAT sensor, screenless MAF sensor, K&N filters, Accel cap and rotor, Taylor SpiroPro 8mm wires, Bosch Platinum plugs, Mobil 1 Synthetic 15W50 motor oil, and more to come...
Best ET- 14.24@96.76MPH / 2.17 60ft on street tires with the crappy B/W 2.77 gears.

Homepage currently under construction: http://www.iit.edu/~wicktho/len
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
From: Johnstown, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
The head installer at the shop I bought my stuff from was telling me about some of the first ZR amps having a couple out of tolerance resistors and when running at low ohm loads, the amp frying. I was hoping it was something of this sort.
Haven't checked the actual current draw, but I don't think it is much, because my volt meter barely fluctuates, unless I'm playing it really hard, and I don't have a capacitor on it. I think the cap will be coming soon, but not until I figure the amp problem out! The battery is the Exide Nascar 1000. The alternator is a Delco 94A (12 SI series) The wire is 4 Gauge Stinger Pro Battery, and ground strap. Then I have 2 8 gauge running from the fuse block and 2 8 gauge from the ground block to the amp. The amp is currently mounted out in the open, and has always been cool to the touch. It's been cooler than the 2 ZR120's that run my mids and highs. I am planning to mount it upside down above the sub in the well, then I will be putting some massive airflow across it, but that's not really even an issue right now.
The amp is awesome when it works, I just wish it would continue working! I really do know what I'm doing, I've done several top-notch installs in the past with no problems, and even impressed myself! I just hope that Kicker can help me out!
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
Haven't checked the actual current draw, but I don't think it is much, because my volt meter barely fluctuates, unless I'm playing it really hard, and I don't have a capacitor on it. I think the cap will be coming soon, but not until I figure the amp problem out! The battery is the Exide Nascar 1000. The alternator is a Delco 94A (12 SI series) The wire is 4 Gauge Stinger Pro Battery, and ground strap. Then I have 2 8 gauge running from the fuse block and 2 8 gauge from the ground block to the amp. The amp is currently mounted out in the open, and has always been cool to the touch. It's been cooler than the 2 ZR120's that run my mids and highs. I am planning to mount it upside down above the sub in the well, then I will be putting some massive airflow across it, but that's not really even an issue right now.
The amp is awesome when it works, I just wish it would continue working! I really do know what I'm doing, I've done several top-notch installs in the past with no problems, and even impressed myself! I just hope that Kicker can help me out!
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
From: Northern KY
Car: 1998 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23
JP84Z,
I've had problems with the ZR600 from day one (which is now 8 months). Very similar symptoms to your other post. I have to drive 5-10 minutes (sometimes longer) before subs kick on. Like the voltage needs to drop before it will kick on. The same amp has blown 2 Solabric subs. Never have figured it out. Glad to hear you got yours going!
Later
I've had problems with the ZR600 from day one (which is now 8 months). Very similar symptoms to your other post. I have to drive 5-10 minutes (sometimes longer) before subs kick on. Like the voltage needs to drop before it will kick on. The same amp has blown 2 Solabric subs. Never have figured it out. Glad to hear you got yours going!
Later
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
From: Johnstown, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
Wow! That's terrible Matt! I've never heard tell of a blown Solo! (Except for an 8 that had like 5000 watts put to it)
The funny thing about it all is that the 2 ZR120's I have right beside the DX700 have been running excelent!
Well I got the new amp installed, and have been playing the **** out of it. It's been fine since I changed the alternator. I hope that this is all over with now!
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
The funny thing about it all is that the 2 ZR120's I have right beside the DX700 have been running excelent!
Well I got the new amp installed, and have been playing the **** out of it. It's been fine since I changed the alternator. I hope that this is all over with now!
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
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