Well some of you guys know that I bought four 12" RF HE2 DVC 400watt RMS subwoofers. I'm starting to get the idea that I won't be able to fit all four of those subs in the rear hatch area. My question is will I be able to get at least 3 of them in there and still have it pound pretty hard? Both of my amps are rated at 600 watts RMS so if I decide to run 3 of the subs I will be equalled out perfectly as RMS goes w/ matching the subs and amps. Does anybody have any ideas on this as if 3 or 4 subs can go in there? And would you recommend a bandpass or a sealed box? Or is the hatch glass itself acting like a bandpass already?

- Mike Harvey -

 

dude, you can fit the four subs in, but you gotta be a bit creative. I went to this one car audio place and they had a 89 or 90 pontiac (i forget) Formula 350 on display. This thing was a crazy system though. Anyway, he did have 4 12's, but the box was difficult. Instead of having a box that is flush with the top of the trunk, consider this. If you build a box like this _/\/\_
you can fit all 4 subs in no problem. The amps would have to go either where your t-top bag used to be, or under the box.

if you really need a picture, I can see if I can find one, if you can get it from my sorry *ss picture up there... cool heh

HTH
- Steve

Best of luck with your system!

 

Thanx for the reply. You were talking about pyramiding the subs in the hatch well correct? That was my initial plan to begin w/ but it has been raining so damn hard around here lately that I haven't been able to pull my subs out of the car of the current system to be able to get the inside measurements to see if a box w/ the proper air space could fit. This wouldn't exactly be a sealed box now would it? B/c sealed boxes have the cone sticking out right? Or should it be a sealed, ported, vented or a bandpass box?
I've also got to keep in mind that I still want to keep some room free in the hatch to be able to store my T-tops plus to be able to store my two amps as well. I've got some ideas for a box design and amps racks but I need to know if those subs are going to be able to fit in the hatch well. Thanx

- Mike Harvey -

 

I dont know if youll be able to get all four subs in, with proper air space, and retain room for the t-tops. The problem with the DVC's is that they require, for a 12, very large amounts of airspace to hit properly. I've got two in a custom build box, mounter flush in my hatch area, and the still dont hit as hard as they could...theres just not enough air space in that well in the back. I'm sure you could get extremely custom with it, and fit it. Hell, I've seen some amaizing things fit in cars (ummm, Alma gates's 48 kicker L7's...now theres a tight fit) As for what type of box to go for, go for whatever you think will sound best. My box is sealed, because I am going more for sound quality than super thump. If you want to go for massive thump, but not cheesy bouncy bass, I'd go for a ported box, with about 4" ports in it. That will probably help to clear up some of the air space issues too. As fo the box design, consult some local installers. Car stereo is the one competition field I've found where people are very willing to help you out, though there are some real dicks. Run the idea by a few different shops, and see what the installers think about it. Most the time you'll be bale to find a couple people who are happy to help.

 

I've decided to try something different then what I wanted to and that is to just use 3 of the subs instead. It just dawned on me that since both of my amps are rated at 600 watts RMS I would be able to power 3 12"'s that are rated at 400watts RMS better then I would be able to power 4 12"'s. I think that they would pound harder too. Now that I have eliminated one subwoofer I have just got to figure out what will work for my car as far as enclosures go. Well that is one issue out of the way

- Mike Harvey -