I have blown 7 fuses in 7 minutes!!!
#1
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I have blown 7 fuses in 7 minutes!!!
My stereo was working just fine until I turned it off and had my catalytic convertor welded on. I checked for burned wires and everything was perfect.
The deck lights up and the amps do also but my PRE-AMP has an inline fuse that keeps blowing It has blown before but all I had to do was replace it and I'm on my way. Now when I replace it I see it glow yellow and burn right up when I turn the deck on. What is going on?
The deck lights up and the amps do also but my PRE-AMP has an inline fuse that keeps blowing It has blown before but all I had to do was replace it and I'm on my way. Now when I replace it I see it glow yellow and burn right up when I turn the deck on. What is going on?
#2
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Unhook the pre-amp and see if it blows another fuse. If it does, then the wire has a short. If it doesn't, then the pre-amp has a problem.
But here's a stupid question, are you using the proper fuse size? You're not trying to throw a .5 amp fuse in there or something are you?
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But here's a stupid question, are you using the proper fuse size? You're not trying to throw a .5 amp fuse in there or something are you?
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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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Replacing the fuse with nothing connected to whatever that fuse powers is an excellent idea.
If, when you do that, there are no problems, remove the fuse and connect the preamplifier without anything connected to it (no inputs or outputs or remote turn on if it has this function; just the positive and ground should be connected. Now replace the fuse and see if it blows.
If the fuse blows with nothing connected to the preamp (other than +12 and ground), you can probably presume that either something inside the preamplifier is bad or too small a fuse is being used. Why it would all of a sudden start blowing fuses is the $79 question (see the last paragraph for the only thing I can think of that would "change" something...).
If it calls for a 0.3 ampere fuse and it sometimes blows (as you mentioned), and it still ocassionally blows with a 0.5 ampere fuse, I'd try a one ampere. The difference is not that great.
Also, if an electric welder was used (as opposed to an acetylene welder) was the battery disconnected before the welding was done? I always disconnect the battery from a vehicle that will be welded on with an electric welder because I've been told - I've never actually witnessed it - that failure to do so can damage something electronic. I have my doubts as to the validity of this, but I continue to do so feeling that erroring on the side of safety is always better when unsure.
If, when you do that, there are no problems, remove the fuse and connect the preamplifier without anything connected to it (no inputs or outputs or remote turn on if it has this function; just the positive and ground should be connected. Now replace the fuse and see if it blows.
If the fuse blows with nothing connected to the preamp (other than +12 and ground), you can probably presume that either something inside the preamplifier is bad or too small a fuse is being used. Why it would all of a sudden start blowing fuses is the $79 question (see the last paragraph for the only thing I can think of that would "change" something...).
If it calls for a 0.3 ampere fuse and it sometimes blows (as you mentioned), and it still ocassionally blows with a 0.5 ampere fuse, I'd try a one ampere. The difference is not that great.
Also, if an electric welder was used (as opposed to an acetylene welder) was the battery disconnected before the welding was done? I always disconnect the battery from a vehicle that will be welded on with an electric welder because I've been told - I've never actually witnessed it - that failure to do so can damage something electronic. I have my doubts as to the validity of this, but I continue to do so feeling that erroring on the side of safety is always better when unsure.
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