Need some advice on my ideas for a simple stereo upgrade
Need some advice on my ideas for a simple stereo upgrade
A few years ago I replaced the stock equipment in my '89 Formula with a Pioneer 1.5 DIN head unit, aftermarket 4x6's and 6x9's (Pioneer up front and Jensen in the rear, I think), bass blockers on 4x6's, and an 8" powered tube in the trunk well. The wiring is still stock, and for the sub I spliced into the rear speakers and ran a wire up front to a switch on the dash.
I'm considering another upgrade, and could use some advice. I'm not real big into car audio, I just want something that sounds decent. I want to keep it simple, no aftermarket amps or wiring (except for built-in amp in sub). I'm capable of some simple surgery to the stock speaker locations, but don't want to have to mutilate anything. I need my hatch space, so I'm just looking for a simple tube sub. The one I have now I cut the wires and put on connectors, so I can pull it out when I need the trunk well more than I need the bass. I put velcro on the bottom of the feet and it keeps it from sliding around since it's not bolted down. Works well, and if I get a new tube sub I'd do the same thing.
Here's some of the general questions I have:
Head unit: Any opinions on the new Jensen CM7015K 1.5 DIN unit with both CD and cassette, and multi-color display? It's the only combo unit I've found that's not double DIN, besides the crappy Audiovox one. It can also accommodate a 10-disc CD changer. How would the sound quality compare to my 4-year-old Pioneer 1.5 DIN CD unit (DEH-45 or something like that)? The one I have sounds fine to me, but the display is impossible to see during the day. Also, the Jensen unit has a subwoofer output, which may come in handy. I realize Jensen isn't considered high end by any means, but if it sounds comparable to the head unit I have now, I'd be fine with that.
Speakers: The last time I picked speakers, I went through the Crutchfield catalog and selected from the ones that would meet the size requirements. However, after eliminating the ones that DIDN'T fit, according to the sizing guide, it didn't leave much left over. I just went through their most recent catalog, and it's the same story. How much fluff is in their advertised mounting depths of 1-3/4" for the dash and 3" for the sail panels? I've been browsing through the past couple months worth of posts in this section, and have seen alot of talk about Infinity speakers. Any suggestions or model numbers on these? Any other good manufacturers I should check that Crutchfield doesn't carry? Cost isn't an issue, I want the nicest sounding stock-size speakers I can get that will fit in the stock locations without anything more than minor rework. Also, should I go higher than the 150Hz bass blockers that I'm currently running on the fronts? Right now I have to set my fade control to about "-5" towards the rear to keep the fronts from distorting when I turn up the bass.
Subwoofer: This one is probably the most confusing to me. I transferred an 8" tube from my previous car to my Formula. I got it at Radio Shack about 7 years ago, for $60 on sale. It's a 100W powered sub, literature says the frequency range goes down to 30 Hz. It doesn't sound too bad, but I thought I'd see what modern-day sub technology has to offer. Looking at Crutchfield, the 10" powered Bazooka goes down to 39 Hz, and I think is $300. Why in the world, after 7 years, five times the cost, and an additional 2" diameter over my Radio Shack special, does it only go down to 39 Hz? Am I missing something? Should I keep what I have? Also, do the newer tubes have a line input rather than splicing the rear speaker wires? Would this work well with the subwoofer output on the Jensen head unit?
Thanks in advance for your help!!
------------------
1989 Formula WS6 M5
2001 Trans Am WS6 A4
More info at website:
http://www.fbody.com/members/stevenmh
I'm considering another upgrade, and could use some advice. I'm not real big into car audio, I just want something that sounds decent. I want to keep it simple, no aftermarket amps or wiring (except for built-in amp in sub). I'm capable of some simple surgery to the stock speaker locations, but don't want to have to mutilate anything. I need my hatch space, so I'm just looking for a simple tube sub. The one I have now I cut the wires and put on connectors, so I can pull it out when I need the trunk well more than I need the bass. I put velcro on the bottom of the feet and it keeps it from sliding around since it's not bolted down. Works well, and if I get a new tube sub I'd do the same thing.
Here's some of the general questions I have:
Head unit: Any opinions on the new Jensen CM7015K 1.5 DIN unit with both CD and cassette, and multi-color display? It's the only combo unit I've found that's not double DIN, besides the crappy Audiovox one. It can also accommodate a 10-disc CD changer. How would the sound quality compare to my 4-year-old Pioneer 1.5 DIN CD unit (DEH-45 or something like that)? The one I have sounds fine to me, but the display is impossible to see during the day. Also, the Jensen unit has a subwoofer output, which may come in handy. I realize Jensen isn't considered high end by any means, but if it sounds comparable to the head unit I have now, I'd be fine with that.
Speakers: The last time I picked speakers, I went through the Crutchfield catalog and selected from the ones that would meet the size requirements. However, after eliminating the ones that DIDN'T fit, according to the sizing guide, it didn't leave much left over. I just went through their most recent catalog, and it's the same story. How much fluff is in their advertised mounting depths of 1-3/4" for the dash and 3" for the sail panels? I've been browsing through the past couple months worth of posts in this section, and have seen alot of talk about Infinity speakers. Any suggestions or model numbers on these? Any other good manufacturers I should check that Crutchfield doesn't carry? Cost isn't an issue, I want the nicest sounding stock-size speakers I can get that will fit in the stock locations without anything more than minor rework. Also, should I go higher than the 150Hz bass blockers that I'm currently running on the fronts? Right now I have to set my fade control to about "-5" towards the rear to keep the fronts from distorting when I turn up the bass.
Subwoofer: This one is probably the most confusing to me. I transferred an 8" tube from my previous car to my Formula. I got it at Radio Shack about 7 years ago, for $60 on sale. It's a 100W powered sub, literature says the frequency range goes down to 30 Hz. It doesn't sound too bad, but I thought I'd see what modern-day sub technology has to offer. Looking at Crutchfield, the 10" powered Bazooka goes down to 39 Hz, and I think is $300. Why in the world, after 7 years, five times the cost, and an additional 2" diameter over my Radio Shack special, does it only go down to 39 Hz? Am I missing something? Should I keep what I have? Also, do the newer tubes have a line input rather than splicing the rear speaker wires? Would this work well with the subwoofer output on the Jensen head unit?
Thanks in advance for your help!!
------------------
1989 Formula WS6 M5
2001 Trans Am WS6 A4
More info at website:
http://www.fbody.com/members/stevenmh
head unit:
I'm not a pioneer expert, but I would venture to say your pioneer is better than the jenson in both the sound quality and reliability. I've herd the only thing jensen makes that is even tolerable is amps.
As for speaker sizes, the dash speakers really are shallow, at least in my 91 they were. My kicks let you have a 6 1/2", but I know you said you were doing this on a budget, so that may not be an option.
For the sub, I'm not a fan of the tubes at all, but I would think a bazooka would sound better. Do not go by specs, as there is no standard that any manufacturer goes by, they all make up their own rules for measurments.
When they say the radio shack plays down to 30, does that mean it is flat down to 30 ? or perhaps it has a roll off and 30 is the lowest note you can really hear ?
mike
------------------
custom 3rd gen kickpanels at
http://www.djsexay.com
I'm not a pioneer expert, but I would venture to say your pioneer is better than the jenson in both the sound quality and reliability. I've herd the only thing jensen makes that is even tolerable is amps.
As for speaker sizes, the dash speakers really are shallow, at least in my 91 they were. My kicks let you have a 6 1/2", but I know you said you were doing this on a budget, so that may not be an option.
For the sub, I'm not a fan of the tubes at all, but I would think a bazooka would sound better. Do not go by specs, as there is no standard that any manufacturer goes by, they all make up their own rules for measurments.
When they say the radio shack plays down to 30, does that mean it is flat down to 30 ? or perhaps it has a roll off and 30 is the lowest note you can really hear ?
mike
------------------
custom 3rd gen kickpanels at
http://www.djsexay.com
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I'm not going to repeat what others have said, but here's my take on a couple things:
1. With slight modification, you can fit ANY 4x6 into the dash. I put Boston 4x6 plates in mine. Not only is the magnet huge, but it's offset. Read the tech article on this website to see how to do it. It's a bit time consuming, but easy.
2. Like mentioned above, you're comparing a radio shack sub to a brand that's actually respectable. But, I'm not a fan of Bazooka either. I do however have nothing against tubes. Whether you throw a single 8" or 10" into a tube or a box makes no difference at all in terms of sound quality. I just don't like pre-packaged tube systems. I prefer to buy a sub, buy the appropriate size tube, and buy a small amp. My total dollar investment winds up about the same, but the result is far, far better.
Anyway, back to my original point. The quality of a sub is based on much more than the frequency response. For one thing, there's a million ways to measure frequency response, so without some sort of indication as to how they measured it, it's worthless. My guess is that the RS unit was measured in a vehicle, with a +/- 10dB (or greater) range, while the Bazooka was probably measured in an anchoiac (butchered that spelling) chamber with a tigher tolerance, probaby +/- 3dB. Big, big difference.
Plus, frequency response is only one small factor in the overall sound characteristics of a speaker. Basing a purchase on frequency responce is like basing a car purchase on the brand of tire it has.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
1. With slight modification, you can fit ANY 4x6 into the dash. I put Boston 4x6 plates in mine. Not only is the magnet huge, but it's offset. Read the tech article on this website to see how to do it. It's a bit time consuming, but easy.
2. Like mentioned above, you're comparing a radio shack sub to a brand that's actually respectable. But, I'm not a fan of Bazooka either. I do however have nothing against tubes. Whether you throw a single 8" or 10" into a tube or a box makes no difference at all in terms of sound quality. I just don't like pre-packaged tube systems. I prefer to buy a sub, buy the appropriate size tube, and buy a small amp. My total dollar investment winds up about the same, but the result is far, far better.
Anyway, back to my original point. The quality of a sub is based on much more than the frequency response. For one thing, there's a million ways to measure frequency response, so without some sort of indication as to how they measured it, it's worthless. My guess is that the RS unit was measured in a vehicle, with a +/- 10dB (or greater) range, while the Bazooka was probably measured in an anchoiac (butchered that spelling) chamber with a tigher tolerance, probaby +/- 3dB. Big, big difference.
Plus, frequency response is only one small factor in the overall sound characteristics of a speaker. Basing a purchase on frequency responce is like basing a car purchase on the brand of tire it has.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
Thanks for the replies. I understand what you're saying on the sub. One other question...based on the Crutchfield specs, the 6", 8", and 10" Bazooka tubes all have a freq range of 39-1500 Hz, and I believe they're all 250W. What is the benefit of the larger diameter tube if the specs all read the same? Usually you see the freq range go a little lower as the diameter grows. I understand that the freq measurements between manufacturers might not be apples and apples, but they should be for units made by the same manufacturer.
Any recommendations on a tube sub other than Bazooka?
Any recommendations as to the best brand of speakers that will fit? I forgot to mention in my original post that I'd like to keep the fronts and rears the same brand if possible.
Any recommendations on a tube sub other than Bazooka?
Any recommendations as to the best brand of speakers that will fit? I forgot to mention in my original post that I'd like to keep the fronts and rears the same brand if possible.
Here's my thoughts on this. I went with Infinity Reference 4x6 plates up front with no modifications. The Reference 6x9's sound good enough as well, without breaking the bank. If you want really good sound, go with Sexay's kick panels and a decent component set from MB Quart and then go with their 6x9's too. I'd keep the Pioneer unit and go with the sub you prefer, a tube and separate amp. The Bazooka 10 sounds really nice, but really can't compete with a 10 in a sealed box and a larger amp.
Chris
Chris
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
db057
TBI
10
Aug 11, 2015 10:11 PM




