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Old Nov 12, 2001 | 12:07 PM
  #1  
BuddyLeeX's Avatar
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From: Keller, TX
Car: 06 Toyota Tundra SR5
Custom boxes

Is it very hard to make a box?

Anyone know where to get a cheaply priced box online?

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87 FireBird Formula
305 4bbl LG4
K&N Filter
Flowmaster 80 Series
Holley Quadra-Jet 650 CFM 4bbl Electronic Carburetor
P215/65R15 Tires
-----Need Upgrades-----
--Give suggestions plz--

http://members.tripod.co.uk/michigan34/car.html
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Old Nov 12, 2001 | 10:02 PM
  #2  
Belker's Avatar
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From: Morgantown, WV
Normally I would say that it is easy to make a box. But ... since you have to ask I assume you wouldn't be comfortable making one and should buy one. On the other hand, if you attempt to make one you would have a good learning experience and you might be very successful. One thing to keep in mind, though, the box is a very important part of a system (almost as important as the subs or the amp). You shouldn't expect a crappy box to sound any better than crappy. I wouldn't buy the cheapest box you can find.
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 07:24 AM
  #3  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
A thirdgen box is a lot more complex than a regular square box. You need to have a solid design and very good woodworking skills to make a good thirdgen box. Unless you're an extremely skilled box builder, expect to spend a LOT of time fixing mistakes on the first couple that you build. I've built a ton and I'm still improving my design all the time.

As for buying a pre-made one, you need to be sure of what you're getting. A lot of the stuff I see out there is 5/8" or even 1/2" particle board that's just stapled together. Those are crap. Some claim to be MDF but aren't. Somewhere out there I'm sure that there are well built 3/4" MDF boxes at a great price, but I haven't found any so far. To get a hand-made box at a local shop or from some guy online named Jim ( ), you're going to get price quotes at $250 and up.

------------------

The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 10:58 AM
  #4  
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From: Seattle, Washington
Car: 1997 Nissan 200SX SE-R
Engine: 2.0 Liter SR20DE
Transmission: 5 Speed
Nothing wrong with stapled. The wood joint is strong than the wood once the glue dries. Lots of people don't use them because you need an air compressor to run the staple gun. Staple is there just to hold it while the glue dries.

The 1/2" wood is the big problem. Unless you have a small sub with little power, it probably isn't a good idea (like a single 8" or 10" with less than 200 watts is probably pushing it).

Juan

------------------
1987 Pontiac Trans Am
1994 Nissan Sentra E
1999 Daewoo Leganza
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 11:01 AM
  #5  
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Car: 1997 Nissan 200SX SE-R
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Duplicate post

[This message has been edited by OldOneEye (edited November 13, 2001).]
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 11:25 AM
  #6  
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Now, I don't normally argue often, but I'm going to add my input here.

1/2" MDF can be more than adaquate if built properly. Most people choose 3/4" because they don't want to take the time to brace properly. I ran my last competition car with an IDQ12 in nothing more than a 1 cu. ft. 1/2" MDF enclosure with a 1/2" plexi front face. This box was built with glue and air staples and braced properly. I literally jumped on this box and could not break it. If you use the proper types of bracing in the right spots, a 1/2" constructed enclosure will not flex on you at all.

You do not "need" 100 drywall screws, and if you are doing 1/2" I would not even recomend drywall screws as they will likely split the wood. The purpose for screws or staples at all is simply to hold the wood tight while the glue sets. You could accomplish the same thing with several bar clamps and paitence. The reason most people don't do this is that they want the box to be used right away and don't want to wait several days for the glue to properly set. But as stated before, once the glue sets, it's actually stronger than the MDF itself if your joints are clean and straight.

On the benifits side, it's lighter and easier to work with.

Now as far as prefab boxes, any box that is built with Particle Board, avoid at all costs. Particle board is brittle and will not hold up in the long run. MDF is the wood of choice. If you are doing your own box you can even move to woods such as birch ply or marine grade ply's, but they can get pricey if you make a mistake.

Sorry to argue, but I just don't like myths that you have to use 3/4 to build a good box.

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Carl
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 11:30 AM
  #7  
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Here's a good tutorial link for anyone who wants to learn more about bracing...


http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/bracing/index.html

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Carl
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 12:53 PM
  #8  
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Don't neglect to bring up box dimensions & volume... the box dimensions are 10xs more important than if you used 3/4 mdf...
a box's internal volume is what makes or breaks it.. (especially when referring to ported setups..)

------------------
Decently worked 87 GTA; finally got a good time out of her: 12.72 @ 116.4mph
other toys: 2002 Yamaha R6 , and a 97 Supra TT

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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 03:17 PM
  #9  
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There is nothing better than the feeling of making something yourself. Remember to build the box with an inside dimension of what the speaker calls for in cubic feet. Speaker placement and design can ruin a great sub, or make a cheap sub come to life. If you want to go crazy, and you have wood working skills, use all angles that you can, and make use of all the space available. But remember, it will take up space, so if you've got t-tops, or use your well for other things, take that into consideration.

------------------
'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
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Old Nov 13, 2001 | 11:18 PM
  #10  
BuddyLeeX's Avatar
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From: Keller, TX
Car: 06 Toyota Tundra SR5
I cant make a box :~( I can but I know nothing about stereo systems and the way the sound travels and stuff like that so I would have no idea how to make one or how to make it like. I have a friend that knows a little and said he could make me one but I dont know if I can trust him. Does anyone have a box they can just freakin sell me that holds 2 12" subs and that they know sounds good with the box, and what not?

------------------
87 FireBird Formula
305 4bbl LG4
K&N Filter
Flowmaster 80 Series
Holley Quadra-Jet 650 CFM 4bbl Electronic Carburetor
P215/65R15 Tires
-----Need Upgrades-----
--Give suggestions plz--

http://members.tripod.co.uk/michigan34/car.html
Reply
Old Nov 14, 2001 | 07:16 AM
  #11  
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
BuddyLee, there's no voodoo magic to sub placement. In a thirdgen, you have basically no options anyway. As long as you've got good woodworking skills and you're good enough at geometry to figure out the internal volume, you should do ok. It's the woodworking skills that are most important.

And Gndprx is right about staples/screws. When I mentioned staples it was because I had a certain box in mind that fell apart when I pulled the staples out. They used no glue. I've also seen people use silicone instead of wood glue. I've seen some seriously bad boxes. But, the most important thing is to keep the wood tight while the glue dries. This also means that the two wood joints need to be flush. If your angle is off a little or if both cuts aren't perfectly straight, the two surfaces won't mate perfectly and the glue will just absorb into each piece instead of bonding them.

------------------

The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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