O.K... I hooked everything up... and I put a 10W fuse in the fuse thing on the Coustic 360W amp... turned the cd player on... the fuse blew right as the song started.... so i turned it off... put in a 25W fuse.... it didn't blow... it worked on a few songs... then a little bit later it just quit working. The amp is on because the green light is lit up. Nothing comes from the subs except this VERY VERY quiet "pop"... i dunno how 2 explain it but the sub doesn't move... you can't feel it... and all u hear is a pop like every 1½ seconds... did i screw my subs up??? or does anyone know what happened? i mean it worked for like 2 minutes then it quit

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'91 Camaro RS 3.1L V6
4th Gen Seats, Sony Xplod CD Player, DJ Sexay's Kicks Panels with a Polk Audio 6½" Comp Set, 2 RF Punch 12's, RF Punch Amp 100.2, Coustic 360W Amp, Kelly Charger Front Tires.
Soon to come, New Rims, New Rear Tires, Paint Job, Interior Color Change.
http://www.geocities.com/adidaspredator21/index.html

 

I think you screwed up your amp troop. You should NEVER use fuse on a device that is higher than what is installed by the factory.

Blown fuses ususally mean there is a short somewhere in the circuit. They can also suggest overdriving or just bad equipment.

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92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Richmond 3:42 gears, Torsen HD Posi
Sights & Sounds:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers. Z28 grille w/aftermarket lights, MacEwen whiteface gauges
NEXT UP: TBI & Suspension mods

 

thing is... i dunno what was installed on the amp in the first place... i put in a 10 that i had in the car and it blew it... crap... now what do i do? or does anyone else have any suggestions?

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'91 Camaro RS 3.1L V6
4th Gen Seats, Sony Xplod CD Player, DJ Sexay's Kicks Panels with a Polk Audio 6½" Comp Set, 2 RF Punch 12's, RF Punch Amp 100.2, Coustic 360W Amp.
Soon to come, New Rims, New Rear Tires, Paint Job, Interior Color Change.
http://www.geocities.com/adidaspredator21/index.html

 

I think you blew your amp. I mean , putting in a bigger fuse is stupid. Fuses are there to protect you, and also usually when the light comes on it means you have a internal problem if the fuse is not blown.




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Red 89 Trans AM GTA
T- tops

Engine stroked to 383ci
World Products heads
Elgin cam
GM 5.7 rods
Keith Black pistons
2-row timing chain
Mellins Hi-Volume oil pump
9:1 compression
24# Ford Fuel Injectors
Edelbrock TES Headers
hi-flow Catalytic Conv
SLP Stainless Steel Cat-back exhaust system
Torkmaster Torque Converter (2000 stall).

 

You fried the amp. Is it new? I did the same thing with mine, only i didnt install it a *ehm* major company did and they ****ed it up and went back on their warranty so i was screwed. Mine did the same thing, it was powered on, but something else was messed up. When you buy another amp, id have a professional check your wiring. It may seem over kill but spending the extra $ to have a professional install the wiring and amp i think is worth, but only if its a car stereo shop only. I learned my lesson from places like circuit city and best buy. I dont have any complaints about good guys though.

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1972 Chevy Chevelle "Malibu"
Hooker Headers, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, accel 8.8 wires,Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock Carb, Msd Blaster 2 Coil, Torque Thrust "D" wheels
Click here for my Malibu information
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt

 

CRAP!... that sux major @$$... i bought it on eBay... i mean it worked for like 5 minutes then i changed cd's and it quit... the power light comes on and everything... dangit... and i'm broke... guess my subs will sit there and not move... can a repair shop fix the amp? or is it screwed forever?

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'91 Camaro RS 3.1L V6
4th Gen Seats, Sony Xplod CD Player, DJ Sexay's Kicks Panels with a Polk Audio 6½" Comp Set, 2 RF Punch 12's, RF Punch Amp 100.2, Coustic 360W Amp.
Soon to come, New Rims, New Rear Tires, Paint Job, Interior Color Change.
http://www.geocities.com/adidaspredator21/index.html

 

a repair shop will probably cost you a bit of money there, if you can find one .. i don't know of anyone who is reputive enough to fix car amps around my place. and FYI on fuses....when too much power is going through them at one time .. they melt so no more current goes through them, a thus protecting you amp from burning up. Putting a fuse higher then the rating says to allows more electricity to go into your amp before the fuse says "uh oh, too much". I've learned my lesson on this one big time with stuff like that. Don't feel bad about it, your not alone with stuff happening. My friend put a screw through the power wire of his monte carlo and shorted out half his car. You'll get it working eventually

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1991 Firebird
-LO3 305 TBI
-5 speed
-Open Element Air Filter
-Edelbrock Tower Strut Brace
-Kenwood Excelon Headunit w/ 10 Disc Changer
-Alpine MRP-F256 Amp
-Polk EX 4x6's, DX 6x9's, and EX Tweeters
-Kicker ZR240 amp (bridged)
-Dual JL W0 12" Subs

-------------------------------
My wonderful page with pics, stuff, and my own car stereo tutorial..
http://members.aol.com/deadtrend1/index.html

 

Why didn't the amp come with a fuse in the first place? Every amp i have bought has had one in it when i bought it. The fuse rating should be printed close to where the fuse plugs in. If not, its on the case somewhere. Try and find it that will tell you what you should have had. Can you send the amp back? Does it have a warrenty? I assume that its used. It sounds like your SOL.

 

yes it's used... i bought it on eBay

------------------
'91 Camaro RS 3.1L V6
4th Gen Seats, Sony Xplod CD Player, DJ Sexay's Kicks Panels with a Polk Audio 6½" Comp Set, 2 RF Punch 12's, RF Punch Amp 100.2, Coustic 360W Amp.
Soon to come, New Rims, New Rear Tires, Paint Job, Interior Color Change.
http://www.geocities.com/adidaspredator21/index.html

 

Try this...disconnect the amp, take off the cover, and eyeball it closely. If you're lucky you may find an internal fuse that blew or you would find a loose wire somewhere. Don't mess with anything unless its really obvious what the problem is. BTW DONT do this if you think you can get any type of warranty work on it.

Most repair shops will charge you at least $100 to fix an amp because of the electronics inside. Whether or not its worth it depends on the actual value of the amp.

Good luck.

 

ok. I know a good bit about stereo amps Any amp between 100-400 watts will have a 15 watt fuse in it usually. Never use anything more than that. or you wil be soldering circuits inside your burnt out amp. as for your subs, they just arent getting any power. You might have blown a circuit in the amp when u put the 25 in it.

 

thanks camaroman... is there anyway to fix it? or is that amp done with?

------------------
'91 Camaro RS 3.1L V6
4th Gen Seats, Sony Xplod CD Player, DJ Sexay's Kicks Panels with a Polk Audio 6½" Comp Set, 2 RF Punch 12's, RF Punch Amp 100.2, Coustic 360W Amp.
Soon to come, New Rims, New Rear Tires, Paint Job, Interior Color Change.


http://www.geocities.com/adidaspredator21/index.html
**BUT FIRST... gotta fix this... stupid people..**

 

I'm guessing there was already something wrong with the amp...putting a bigger fuse in it should not damage a properly working amp. All it will do is prevent the fuse from protecting the amp in case of a malfunction.

- Mike

 

Wrong....specific fuses are put there to protect the circuits from surges or excessive current. You take away this protection when you switch to a higher rated fuse. In other words, you will fry the amp but the fuse will not blow.

Maybe the amp was bad to begin with, but even the proper fuse won't stop an internal malfunction.

 

yes you can take it into an audio shop, or you can take off the amp cover and look for a blown circuit somewhere. mend that circuit and u will be fine. if that circuit does happen to break again, a new one is highly suggsted.

 

What I was saying about the bigger fuse is that a bigger fuse alone should not fry an amp. If there is something wrong (amp malfunction, excessive current draw) that fuse will not necessairly protect the amp. But from my understanding, in my current system for example, since the fuses on my amp are not blowing, if i replaced them with something bigger and didn't change anything else, would my amp fry? No, it would just reduce/remove the protection on my amp. It wouldn't be the smartest thing, and coupled with something else could damage the amp, but alone it should not cause damage.

As far as your amp, since it blew a 10A, and then worked for a few minutes and stopped working, it sounds like it was drawing too much current and cooked something inside. Was it hot afterwords? An amp could draw too much current if it was running at too low of an impendence, and doesn't have protection. What impendence are your subs and how did you have them wired, and what is your amp rated to?

- Mike

 

yes i remember it being hot afterwards... but it says it is bridgeable... the subs are 8 ohms each and i had them bridged... the positives twisted together on the left positive terminal... the negatives twisted together on the right terminal... what should i do now?

------------------
'91 Camaro RS 3.1L V6
4th Gen Seats, Sony Xplod CD Player, DJ Sexay's Kicks Panels with a Polk Audio 6½" Comp Set, 2 RF Punch 12's, RF Punch Amp 100.2, Coustic 360W Amp.
Soon to come, New Rims, New Rear Tires, Paint Job, Interior Color Change.


http://www.geocities.com/adidaspredator21/index.html
**BUT FIRST... gotta fix this... stupid people..**

 

Is it just me or is that NOT how you bridge a amp.


Nate

------------------
Red 89 Trans AM GTA
T- tops

Engine stroked to 383ci
World Products heads
Elgin cam
GM 5.7 rods
Keith Black pistons
2-row timing chain
Mellins Hi-Volume oil pump
9:1 compression
24# Ford Fuel Injectors
Edelbrock TES Headers
hi-flow Catalytic Conv
SLP Stainless Steel Cat-back exhaust system
Torkmaster Torque Converter (2000 stall).

 

that's what i read on this message board... and that's what it has on my RF Punch instruction thing and it had it on the booklet for the amp... it has to 2 negatives together on the right negative... and the two positives together on the left positive... calls is Parallel Wiring... 2 8 Ohm subs... go to 4 ohms

 

He's right. That's one way to bridge it. The real question is... did you use the proper terminals on the amp and will the amp handle 4 ohms safely ? Does the amp have a switch to enable bridging ?

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1991 Z28 5.7 TPI

ZZ4 heads, ZZ4 cam, Harland Sharp roller rockers, Accel base, SLP siamesed runners, 52MM SLP Throttle Body, Hooker Headers, Flowmaster catback, MSD6A ignition, Home made ramair system, aluminum driveshaft, WC 5-speed etc

 

yeah i used the right terminals... i'm 99.9999999% sure i did... cuz i double checked when i screwed the things down... i'm pretty sure it'll handle 4 ohms cuz it's a bridgeable amp... i dunno... i'll look at it when i put my stuff back in my car... i took the subs and stuff out so no one would steal them since my door is all caved in and i have no window lol... but i put the car in the backyard and locked the gate... if they steal it they steal it... =(

------------------
'91 Camaro RS 3.1L V6
4th Gen Seats, Sony Xplod CD Player, DJ Sexay's Kicks Panels with a Polk Audio 6½" Comp Set, 2 RF Punch 12's, RF Punch Amp 100.2, Coustic 360W Amp.
Soon to come, New Rims, New Rear Tires, Paint Job, Interior Color Change.


http://www.geocities.com/adidaspredator21/index.html
**BUT FIRST... gotta fix this... stupid people..**

 

I don't know if you did this... Recheck your wiring...


CHECK THE GROUND(to the amp) ALSO!!!! It could happen.

------------------
92 Camaro 305 TBI Automatic
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=6100

[This message has been edited by 92Camaro305TBI (edited November 16, 2001).]

 

sounds like your ground....trying grounding it to the frame....

 

it is grounded... i have it grounded at the same place my other amp is grounded to... it's got the wire into this thing that has a round metal tip on the end... there is a screw screwing both of them into them frame...

 

Try separating the grounds? Just a suggestion!