Fiberglass Sub-system Part 2
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From: Enumclaw, WA USA
Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
Transmission: 5-sp
Fiberglass Sub-system Part 2
OK, here is the latest design. I know it's ugly right now, but at least you can see the general shape. With the 1-piece design I can fit a bigger amp than with the 3-piece original. To all of those who haven't been in the loop, I'm planning on manufacturing and selling these things starting in about a month. Hopefully I'll have the website up by then. I'll post more information on pricing, airspace, finishes, etc. when I know more myself. Feel free to leave comments, opinions, or suggestions (it won't hurt my feelings
).
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From: Enumclaw, WA USA
Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
Transmission: 5-sp
Here is a shot from outside the car. Before you skeptics say anything:
Yes, I need my windows tinted.
Yes, I have an alarm.
Yes, I live in a quiet neighborhood.
Yes, it will be bolted down.
Yes, I have full-coverage theft insurance.
Yes, convenience of removal is more important to me than not attracting thieves.
That being said, here you go:
Yes, I need my windows tinted.
Yes, I have an alarm.
Yes, I live in a quiet neighborhood.
Yes, it will be bolted down.
Yes, I have full-coverage theft insurance.
Yes, convenience of removal is more important to me than not attracting thieves.
That being said, here you go:
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: sbc 400
Transmission: th350
haha, ya hit on all the topics i was gonna say, oh well. it looks really good. if you want to make it even easier to remove, look into www.delcity.net they have some 2 wire disconnect plugs. like 2-8 guage. perfect for snapping the amp power in and out inf necessary. i'm lookin to get a set for when i do my rearseat amp install. keep us updated
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From: Enumclaw, WA USA
Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
Transmission: 5-sp
Hey thanks for the Delcity link! I've found connectors for everything except the power and ground. I plan on making it so that I only have to unplug 3 connectors from the back of the box. RCA's, Power/Ground, and remote. Speaker wire will run into the box to the subs, so there's no reason to disconnect that.
As for pricing and stuff, I can't put out a real accurate price right now, but I'm shooting for about $200-$250 per finished box (vinyl wrapped). That's including the Lexan window for the amp.
Airspace should be (not sure yet) variable between .5cu.ft. and .8cu.ft. per side. You'd specify airspace when ordering.
As for pricing and stuff, I can't put out a real accurate price right now, but I'm shooting for about $200-$250 per finished box (vinyl wrapped). That's including the Lexan window for the amp.
Airspace should be (not sure yet) variable between .5cu.ft. and .8cu.ft. per side. You'd specify airspace when ordering.
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From: Mililani, HI USofA Search Posts: 2848.............. Whore Posts: 47.................. Magical Whore Posts: 1
Car: 91 Camaro 77K
Engine: 3.1 Vslick
I think if you made one that fit in the well of the trunk, I would buy it...
well what would be the point of that.
Other people make boxes that fit in the well
the guy with picture of 2 cars in his sig facing you makes them I beleive (sure I could go check what his name is but im too lazy )
Im sure he'll post
Nate
Other people make boxes that fit in the well
the guy with picture of 2 cars in his sig facing you makes them I beleive (sure I could go check what his name is but im too lazy )
Im sure he'll post
Nate
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From: Mililani, HI USofA Search Posts: 2848.............. Whore Posts: 47.................. Magical Whore Posts: 1
Car: 91 Camaro 77K
Engine: 3.1 Vslick
Originally posted by 89transam
well what would be the point of that.
Other people make boxes that fit in the well
the guy with picture of 2 cars in his sig facing you makes them I beleive (sure I could go check what his name is but im too lazy )
Im sure he'll post
Nate
well what would be the point of that.
Other people make boxes that fit in the well
the guy with picture of 2 cars in his sig facing you makes them I beleive (sure I could go check what his name is but im too lazy )
Im sure he'll post
Nate
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Car audio is all about creativity. I think Kj Rockz has a heck of an idea here. Does it have its drawbacks? Sure. Does a traditional box like mine have its drawbacks? Yup. One style will suit the needs of certain people more than the other style.
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From: Enumclaw, WA USA
Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
Transmission: 5-sp
Exactly.
I was considering trying a fiberglass box for the well, but it wouldn't be for awhile. DJ Sexay and I forget who else are considering making "built in" type fiberglass boxes for the rear sides. That would pretty much take care of any need for a "stealth" system.
My box design is more for people who want something original that they don't mind showing off, and people who want to be able to easily take it out for Autocross, Drags, cleaning, or whatever else.
So really it depends on what you're looking for, but if nobody else does a fiberglass well box by the time I get around to it, I'll probably take it on.
I was considering trying a fiberglass box for the well, but it wouldn't be for awhile. DJ Sexay and I forget who else are considering making "built in" type fiberglass boxes for the rear sides. That would pretty much take care of any need for a "stealth" system.
My box design is more for people who want something original that they don't mind showing off, and people who want to be able to easily take it out for Autocross, Drags, cleaning, or whatever else.
So really it depends on what you're looking for, but if nobody else does a fiberglass well box by the time I get around to it, I'll probably take it on.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Have you figured out how you're going to anchor it into place yet? That's going to be a pretty big concern.
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From: Enumclaw, WA USA
Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
Transmission: 5-sp
I'm thinking 16 ga sheetmetal brackets. It's kind of hard to explain exactly how I intend on using them, but when it's hooked up you'll see.
I think it looks really good, especially for an unfinished enclosure. Personally, I liked your sub-only molds better, but that was because I'd be interested in still being able to get to my T-Top anchors on the deck lid.
At any rate, congrats on the sweet design. It's very unique and very cool.
-Matt
At any rate, congrats on the sweet design. It's very unique and very cool.
-Matt
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by REZN8R
I'm thinking 16 ga sheetmetal brackets. It's kind of hard to explain exactly how I intend on using them, but when it's hooked up you'll see.
I'm thinking 16 ga sheetmetal brackets. It's kind of hard to explain exactly how I intend on using them, but when it's hooked up you'll see.
You could also do what the installer did on my brother's Camaro. For that area, he peeled up the carpet and then attatched a sheet of something like 1" plywood using liquid nails. He then screwed the mounting brakets for the amplifiers through the carpet and into this with no fear of puncturing the gas tank (or even having sharp protruding edges that might in the case of an accident).
-Matt
-Matt
looking at the angles of the subs and the angle of the window and not seeing any ports. i take it this is a box designed for looks? i really dont think you'll hit a nice SPL level just becuse of the way things are angled. you you turned that around and stuck it in the well. you might be on to something. thats what im going to do in abit.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by REZN8R
I was thinking something like this:
I was thinking something like this:
Very nice. I like the idea quite well. I agree with Jim on the mounting issue. I'm guessing the bottom of the box is sealed(like flat across the bottom and not open). The safest route would be the board underneath the carpet and screwing the box into the board VIA some small round holes in the corners of the amp rack so you wouldn't have to remove the subs or amp to get to the screws to remove the box. Then maybe find or make some plugs for the holes. Only problem is you'd need a long magnetic screwdriver or extension to reach the screws. Other than that I'd just run screws through the speaker openings into the board but you'd have to remover the subs everytime you want to remove it. But in my case I do more listening to my stereo than racing so I wouldn't mind the second option.
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From: Enumclaw, WA USA
Car: '96 M3
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Transmission: 5-sp
i take it this is a box designed for looks?
Last edited by REZN8R; Mar 18, 2002 at 11:14 AM.
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From: Enumclaw, WA USA
Car: '96 M3
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Transmission: 5-sp
I'll have to look into a safe way of mounting the enclosure after I get a finished product. That way I'll have a better idea of what I have to work with. Thanks for your suggestions and comments.
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