factory stereo help!
factory stereo help!
Hey everyone, someone jacked my aftermarket stereo (which worked perfectly fine) the connections are the same and when the original is plugged in the backlighting turns on but no power. It has the larger antenna plug on it so it's not hooked up. There is also a stray yellow wire that was cut. The wires are all present in the connector but the male plug has completely different colors (probably aftermarket.) I'm not entirely sure that the stereo actually works I think it does. Is there any reset button or anything?? Thanks!!
I hate car stereo thiefs! Sorry to hear about that, I have had to re install many radios because of rip offs, and it can be tasking. First things first, go get an antenna adaptor to plug in the antenna. The stray yellow wire also concerns me. On most aftermarket units, this wire is constant +12 volts, which would connect to the (almost always) orange wire from the car. For your reference, the following colors are common to most aftermarket radio wiring harnesses.
yellow: constant +12 volts
red: switched +12 volts
black: ground
blue/blue w/white stripe: +12 volt output for power antenna or amp turn on
orange w/ white stripe: radio dimmer
white w/ black stripe: LF - speaker
white: LF + speaker
grey/grey w/ stripe: RF speakers
green/green w/stripe: LR speakers
purple/purple w/stripe: RR
As far as identifying the vehicles wiring, get a multimeter and a nine volt battery. The constant +12 volt wire will show 12 volts with the ignition off. The switched +12 volt wire should show 12 volts with the key in either the run or accessory position. Ground is obvious, the meter will show 0 or OL when set to read ohms. Just make sure you don't have a dimmer wire, because that wire will show ground with the headlights off, so turn them on while testing to make sure.
Now for the speakers. Speaker wires are usually in sets, one color for both, and one wire will have a stripe. Touch one wire to the + terminal of the 9 volt, the other to the - terminal. If you have a speaker, it will audibly pop.
If you have a power antenna, the antenna will raise when the wire is touched to +12 volts. Do this step last, after you have identified the rest of the wires, since if you touch the ground wire to +12, you will get a nice spark, and blow the fuse. Hope this helps, if you need clarification, post again, or PM.
yellow: constant +12 volts
red: switched +12 volts
black: ground
blue/blue w/white stripe: +12 volt output for power antenna or amp turn on
orange w/ white stripe: radio dimmer
white w/ black stripe: LF - speaker
white: LF + speaker
grey/grey w/ stripe: RF speakers
green/green w/stripe: LR speakers
purple/purple w/stripe: RR
As far as identifying the vehicles wiring, get a multimeter and a nine volt battery. The constant +12 volt wire will show 12 volts with the ignition off. The switched +12 volt wire should show 12 volts with the key in either the run or accessory position. Ground is obvious, the meter will show 0 or OL when set to read ohms. Just make sure you don't have a dimmer wire, because that wire will show ground with the headlights off, so turn them on while testing to make sure.
Now for the speakers. Speaker wires are usually in sets, one color for both, and one wire will have a stripe. Touch one wire to the + terminal of the 9 volt, the other to the - terminal. If you have a speaker, it will audibly pop.
If you have a power antenna, the antenna will raise when the wire is touched to +12 volts. Do this step last, after you have identified the rest of the wires, since if you touch the ground wire to +12, you will get a nice spark, and blow the fuse. Hope this helps, if you need clarification, post again, or PM.
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