Per my A/F gauge... after it is warmed up and the choke is open and all, if I shut the car off and release the pressure in the line it will idle in the low-mid normal range, but go lean when I rev it.

As time goes on, it reads more and more rich, and after about 2 minutes if I rev it, it reads well within the upper normal/ low rich range. If I don't release the pressure before starting the car, than it starts off normal/rich, gets richer, and still acts this way.

It's almost like it doesn't fill the fuel bowl at first, but does after a few minutes where it gets rich. I run about 6+ psi with a Carter mech pump and no regulator. I assume my jets are fine, if not a little on the lean side. I get no bog either.

The car runs fine like this, but I'd like to determine why it continues to get rich like it does. I'd prefer it to be in the upper normal range and only get to low normal range when I rev it to say 4-5K rpms.

Is my needle off the seat? Is my Carter Street pump not enough for my engine? I assume my accelerator pump shot is good, but something is just trying to push too much gas into the engine. My float level is fine, just below the site plug.

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

I would ignore the A/F reading for a few minutes after starting. It takes a while to work correctly. With a carb, the pressure isn't that big of a deal. Once the fuel is in the fuel bowl, it's under no pressure. The engine then sucks it in. As long as you have enough volume of fuel in the bowl at all times, you will be fine. When it 'warms' up, recheck the float level. I'm sure it's probably just fine.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkim bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

Well, I only pay attention to the A/F gauge because it does it when the car is warm, shut it off, open site plug or release pressure by fuel filter, and start car up again...

If I just let the car warm up, shut it off, start it up again, then it reads rich.

 

The sight plug should have no pressure since it's after the needle and seat and the bowl is usually vented. It doesn't take long for an O2 sensor to cool enough to become not accurate--the temp of the engine doesn't matter. Remove the sight plug and run the engine for a while(float level should be set so no fuel comes out of the hole). If the float level remains constant while the engine goes from lean to rich per the A/F guage, it's not because of fuel delivery--since the level of fuel remains constant.



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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkim bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

So, if my needle and seat are bad, than I should have gas flowing out the site hole even if the float level is OK...