What's needed for a carb switch?
What's needed for a carb switch?
I have a CC Qjet that's in need or a rebuild, and I figured what the heck, get a new carb instead. Since Edelbrock doesn't make a replacement for mine, I was just going to replace with a non-cc carb. What all would be needed to accomplish this swap. I'm new to the engine scope of cars, so please let me know EVERYTHING I'll need. (TRANSLATION: I'm ignorant about these things, but willing to learn)
I was told I'd need a new distributor too, would it be overkill to go ahead and swap in a new intake manifold and maybe a cam/lifter package while I'm at it?
Let me know what you all recommend, and what cfm would be best. Right now it's a stock LG4 with a dual snorkle intake as far as I know.
I've been reading CHP's My generatino articles and was thinking of following along with their buildup, but any other product options you'd recommend would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
Rich
I was told I'd need a new distributor too, would it be overkill to go ahead and swap in a new intake manifold and maybe a cam/lifter package while I'm at it?
Let me know what you all recommend, and what cfm would be best. Right now it's a stock LG4 with a dual snorkle intake as far as I know.
I've been reading CHP's My generatino articles and was thinking of following along with their buildup, but any other product options you'd recommend would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
Rich
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 46
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
If you follow the changes they make in those CHP articles, you'll at least learn what mistakes to avoid (like buying an exhaust system for an LG4 instead of TPI, for instance).
I'm a big advocate of keeping the computer controlled system, for several reasons. The big one is it will likely be more driveable and get better economy than anything else you put on, while still putting out the power. Translation: You'll spend less money both short- and long-term getting the CC system to perform for you than you would buying new non-CC stuff. You could send your carb out to a pricey outfit like Jet and still spend less money than a new carb & distributor would cost you.
The intake & cam are good ideas, but don't ignore the exhaust and air cleaner. They really need help.
------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
I'm a big advocate of keeping the computer controlled system, for several reasons. The big one is it will likely be more driveable and get better economy than anything else you put on, while still putting out the power. Translation: You'll spend less money both short- and long-term getting the CC system to perform for you than you would buying new non-CC stuff. You could send your carb out to a pricey outfit like Jet and still spend less money than a new carb & distributor would cost you.
The intake & cam are good ideas, but don't ignore the exhaust and air cleaner. They really need help.
------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
thanks, on the air cleaner & exhaust, I'm running an Amsoil 2 stage air filter (as good or better than K&N they say) and have a 3" catback, I'm thinking of maybe edelbrock headers and a high flow cat in addition to this.
Would swapping to a TPI setup be a be problem? I'd probably need the harness, ECM and everything above the block, but I have a friend with a 350 TPI setup for sale, plus a shop to do the swap in (most likely). I like the idea of the TPI's fuel efficiency, but also like the limited computer interface of carbs.
Anyone else have any input?
Would swapping to a TPI setup be a be problem? I'd probably need the harness, ECM and everything above the block, but I have a friend with a 350 TPI setup for sale, plus a shop to do the swap in (most likely). I like the idea of the TPI's fuel efficiency, but also like the limited computer interface of carbs.
Anyone else have any input?
Right now, if you don't need it, don't waste your time with TPI. Trust me, I have 2 complete TPI setups and a wiring harness, and it is going to take A LOT of time and work to get it installed and running right. Throw on a non computer controlled carb (i'd go holley or edelbrock, personally, i'm about to bolt a 600cfm holley onto my LG4), a new distributor, and some headers, and you will be a lot happier than going all the way to TPI.
If you put on the TPI, you are still going to have a slow car, just fuel injected. Put on some bolt on mods (headers, heads, intake) and you will have a car a lot faster than just a LG4 with TPI. You will sacrifice fuel milage and cold starting, but you will save your sanity from not having to worry about all the wiring and a restrictive intake.
Don't get me wrong, I'm going to be installing TPI on my car come this winter. However, its a long and expensive job, which is why I'm waiting until my car is off the road and I have time to sort out all the wiring and such.
If you put on the TPI, you are still going to have a slow car, just fuel injected. Put on some bolt on mods (headers, heads, intake) and you will have a car a lot faster than just a LG4 with TPI. You will sacrifice fuel milage and cold starting, but you will save your sanity from not having to worry about all the wiring and a restrictive intake.
Don't get me wrong, I'm going to be installing TPI on my car come this winter. However, its a long and expensive job, which is why I'm waiting until my car is off the road and I have time to sort out all the wiring and such.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
86IROC112
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
4
Aug 17, 2015 02:00 PM





