I think its a code 44, its been awhile since i checked it. but yeah it turns on every time the car is completely warmed up and i set at idle for about 2 minutes, but then goes away when i drive. Its definitaly a lean code. so how would i go about fattining it up a bit? its a 305 quadraspank auto.

i need to fix the engine light so i can smog it. thanks guys.

Omar

 

I would suggest replacing the O2 sensor first.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

 

If a new sensor doesn't fix it, the AIR diverter box may not be diverting the air to the cat conv when the engine's warmed up. If the air continues to pump into the manifolds or headers when the computer's in closed loop, the O2 can read lean.

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D.R. Stevens
1984 Trans Am 305HO L69
all the usual external/free mods, original engine
1991 Firebird 305 L03
bone-dead-slow-stock

 

so your saying my AIR compressor could still be going on? so i guess i should check the wiring to the AIR compressor. or listen to see if the AIR clutch ingages or not right? cool bean man.

ill try that out and see if i find anything.

Omar

 

Guess I should have been more detailed-I'm talking about the smog pump that injects fresh air into the exhaust manifolds & cat conv. (that is if all that stuff is still on the engine)
The pump is plumbed to a black box on the pass. side, and there's a valve in there that sends the fresh air to the exhaust manifolds during warmup, and to the cat after warmup.
If that's messed up and it's still pumping fresh air into the manifold after the car's warmed up, the sensor can read lean. But, if your o2 sensor hasn't been replaced yet, get a new one anyway, they're about $20-$30.
Sorry if I confused you.

 

no i know what your talking about, im just saying AIR, meaning the Air Injection R**? the Air injection thing meaning the smog pump.

I still havent gotten around to checking it out but eventually i'll see whats going on with it. ill probably check the sensor for voltage and stuff like that.

by the way, do you think a haynes manual would tell you how much voltage should be going through the smog pump sensor?

the smog pump sensor is just hooked up to the engine temp some how right? so if thats the case my engine temp sensor might be messed up too, right?

doh! damn trans am.
Omar

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'84 LG4 trans chicken. 700r4 tranny with poly urathane tranny bushing, flowmasher, and thats it =) best todate is a 16.45

**95 neon ACR
GUDE performance port and polished head, Gude cams, GUDE throttle body, GUDE header, mopar valve springs, AEM cam gears, nology spark plug wires, AFX underdrive pulley, catco cat, nakayama universal muffler, centerforce DF clutch, 50 shot of nitrous, on 20x6x14" Mickeys. best todate is a 13.79@ 97mph
**breaking in JE pistoned/eagle rodded motor as we speak =)

 

Better recheck your codes. Codes 13, 44, & 45 will not set at idle, they require part throttle. It may actually be lean at idle and O2 sensors never get changed often enough but I would give a good look around for vacuum leaks.

 

is there any easy way to get to that o2 sensor???? i looked at it today and just said screw it, ill do it later. so is it easier to get the o2 from the bottom of the car? its a LG4.

Other thing that happened today was when i went to start the car, the idle was real real choppy. It studdered when i pressed the gas, like it was super fat. Its smelled super fat, and black smoke was comming out the tail pipe. but when the car warmed up, the idle was fine. I have no clue whats causing that. should i just say screw it and buy a new carb?? its a q-jet.

help
Omar

 

Your choke pull off is bad. Easy to fix.

 

explain? choke pull off? is that the adjustable black thing held on the side of the carb buy those 3 screws? i did mess with that a bit, but im almost sure i put it back the way it was. i could be wrong.

am i talking about the samething? if not, please help me out.

Thanks
Oamr

 

I have had a code 44 on my 84 355 Z28 twice. Both of them turned out to be the M/C solanoid. It was stuck in the down pos. A big clue was that when i turned the key to the run pos. I could not here the M/C sol. clicking.

-Auggie-