M4ME metering rods & mods
M4ME metering rods & mods
I have a L69 block with ported L98 aluminum heads (1.94/1.50" valves), 214/224 degree .442/.465" lift with 112 degree lobe sep., headers, dual exhaust, and Performer intake. The engine dynoed at 327HP@5500 and 344FT/LBS@4500. My carb has been rebuilt, with no mods. I have looked at the tech articles, but I'm not sure about the whole metering rod business. I have been told by several people that I could pick up some performance by changing my secondary metering rods. The metering rods just screw in so changing them is easy. Q#1 - What should I replace them with? (part# would be great) Q#2 - Where can I get new ones? Q#3 - What other mods should I consider?
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From: Ontario, Canada
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I take it your motor maybe was not dynoed with your carb. No one can tell you the exact
Rods you'll need, but you're on the right track.
Edelbrock has a good selection of rods, jets
and hangers for your carb. First make sure
the secondary butterflies and air valve open all the way 90degs. Some don't. Make 1/4 mile
runs, trying different rods and hangers
and air door settings and look for a repeated average MPH gain. (ET is relevant, but can vary with traction etc). Get new spark plugs! The stock heat range plug will be slightly to hot for this. Get some 2/3 heat ranges colder. Ignore the color of the plugs. As long as its not exessive lean (overheated tip, detonation) or rich (black,
wet). Use hi octane pump gas. As long as the car idles and cruises well, avoid messing with the primary side. Good Luck.
Rods you'll need, but you're on the right track.
Edelbrock has a good selection of rods, jets
and hangers for your carb. First make sure
the secondary butterflies and air valve open all the way 90degs. Some don't. Make 1/4 mile
runs, trying different rods and hangers
and air door settings and look for a repeated average MPH gain. (ET is relevant, but can vary with traction etc). Get new spark plugs! The stock heat range plug will be slightly to hot for this. Get some 2/3 heat ranges colder. Ignore the color of the plugs. As long as its not exessive lean (overheated tip, detonation) or rich (black,
wet). Use hi octane pump gas. As long as the car idles and cruises well, avoid messing with the primary side. Good Luck.
The dyno was done with a 600 Edelbrock and Hooker headers. I'm using the stock Q-jet and Flowtech headers. I was told to try AH metering rods. I know how to extract the metering rods, and I guess the hanger is what they 'hang' on? Smaller diameter metering rods will give me more fuel from what I understand. I was also told that the Q-jets don't have to be rejetted because the metering rods are what control the flow? I'm usually a Holley man, but I want to keep the computer on this motor.
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Republic of Western Canada
Car: 1986 Sport Coupé
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jag:
The dyno was done with a 600 Edelbrock and Hooker headers. I'm using the stock Q-jet and Flowtech headers. I was told to try AH metering rods. I know how to extract the metering rods, and I guess the hanger is what they 'hang' on? Smaller diameter metering rods will give me more fuel from what I understand. I was also told that the Q-jets don't have to be rejetted because the metering rods are what control the flow? I'm usually a Holley man, but I want to keep the computer on this motor.</font>
The dyno was done with a 600 Edelbrock and Hooker headers. I'm using the stock Q-jet and Flowtech headers. I was told to try AH metering rods. I know how to extract the metering rods, and I guess the hanger is what they 'hang' on? Smaller diameter metering rods will give me more fuel from what I understand. I was also told that the Q-jets don't have to be rejetted because the metering rods are what control the flow? I'm usually a Holley man, but I want to keep the computer on this motor.</font>
There is a terrific Tech Article, linked on the front page, that gives good instructions on setting up your QJet for performance.
Basically, your secondary rods should be DRs and your hanger a G model. AYs work about as well but try a B hanger if the G continues to make it bog. The article by Damon Nickles is just super so print it out and good luck

[This message has been edited by Sitting Bull (edited October 29, 2001).]
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