any one know where i can go or any sites too look at for tuning electronically conrolled carbs, i had mine rebuilt and the idle never stays the same sometimes it goes high and sometimes it stays fine at 500

 

boy i dont know if you can tune a computer controled carb like you could the old ones with the screws, might be the comp you got to mess with

 

Not 100% sure, but can't you jump out the two connectors in the ALDL connector (as if you were reading the codes in the computer... the two upper most pins on the right side) and won't that let the car run w/o the computer?

 

The idle speed is not directly controlled by the computer. If it is jumping around, you most likely have a mechicanical problem like a sticking linkage or choke cam.

There is a chance of something being mal-adjusted. But, I can't point you to a website for that other than the tech articles on this board.

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The "kid" got it right. The ECM can't adjust idle speed, other than maybe turning on the A/C compensator solenoid or anti-dieseling solenoid (of so equipped).

That being said, the most common reason for a high idle under various conditions is that the choke is not pulling off completely. Make sure that the wire that plugs into the electrical choke on the side of the carb is properly connected and delivers a full 12V any time the key is in the run position, or the choke may not fully open and the idle speed may not drop down off it's cold-idle speed (high idle).

 

In the above situation... would the "choke" light come on on the dash board? I looked in the owner's manual, I don't even understand what that light means... all it says is that if the light is on for more than 30 seconds there's a problem (good to know, right?) But what does the light actually MEAN lol... thanks guys.

 

The Choke light also doubles as your alternator "dummy" light.

And no, the light won't come on for a mechanical choke malfunction. It's based on the electric circuit to the element in the choke housing.

I think if the car is running and the choke light is on, pull the connector off the choke and measure the voltage to ground. If you have 12-15 volts there, it's probably the alternator portion of the circuit.


[This message has been edited by 99Hawk120 (edited November 27, 2001).]

 

Silly question... when I disconnect the choke and check the voltage, I check the voltage at the carb, right? And not at the harness part? Plus I still don't understand... when the light comes on, and it's for the actual choke part what does it mean, that the choke is closed when it shouldn't be? Wouldn't that make the engine run faster though? (When the light comes on, the engine runs fine, but the light only stays on for a second or two when I first start the engine and it's warm.)

 

The choke light has nothing to do with whether the choke is open or closed. It should be on when the car is stopped, and off when it's running. Anything else means something is wrong with the choke circuit or the alternator.

 

No, you check the voltage on the harness. If you get 12V on the choke after you pull the wire off, I'd suggest putting down the DVM and calling an exorcist instead.

That wire is the +12V source to the electric part of the choke.

 

DVM?? only thing I can think of is "d*mned volt meter..." is that what DVM really stands for? hehe

 

"D"igital "V"oltage "M"eter


[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited November 28, 2001).]

 

Hehe, sorry for the acronym, I'm an Electrical Engineer by trade. Grease monkey is only a hobby.