I bought the kit and rebuilt my carb, and then I replaced my fuel pump and I put in an inline fuel filter on my fuel line.

The car is running SOOOO much better after the rebuild, except for one thing ... I had so much better acceleration before I re adjusted everything back to normal. the car doesn't seem like it has the same kick that it had before. I do not have a Bog anymore the way i used to, it seems that if I push the pedal down from start it goes... it just doesn't kick me into the back of my seat the way it used to.

Any suggestions? Re Do the Air Valve Tension?


thanks again

 

Play with the AV tension until it pulls as hard as possible w/o bog.

Make sure the timing is where it belongs, too (read - advanced enough for performance, not enough to ping or cause spark retart [assuming you have a knock sensor]). Use a timing light to insure it's being moved a specific amount.

 

Right now I have the idle screw making the car idle at 750, and fast idle at 1k because when I had it at factory settings 500 & 750 when i would push the gas the rpm's would go down .... then finally pick up if not stall. now the rpm's don't go below 500 rpm's when pushing the gas, is this still a bog? and about the timing if i go grab a timing light just go out and time it close enough before it starts to misfire?

Im still a beginer heh

 

Sounds like you really need to get that timing adjusted. That off-idle problem is a flat spot, not what is typically called "bog", and timing is critical in eliminating it.

IIRC, this is a CC q-jet. To adjust the timing, you need to unplug the distributor to ECM wire/harness. That allows you to set the "base" timing - 6 degrees is typically a good start point, I'm running 10 myself but I have a different setup than you do. Plug the distributor ECM back together, you'll probably have to readjust the idle. Give it a try, you should have crisp off-idle throttle response and no pinging under part-throttle load and full throttle.

The other factor in that off-idle flat spot is the thermovac function of the air cleaner. It brings warm air up to the carb when the engine is cold, and a minimum 110 degrees air at all times. If you have an open element, or the thermovac isn't working correctly, that flat spot is almost impossible to eliminate.

When you get all of that straightened out, then you can start adjusting the AV tension to produce the proper WOT mashing properties.

 

hmmm It seems that a Timing light is very expensive... Is there anyway around this?

 

Borrow one.

 

anyone in or neer albany have a timing light? heh I just moved here so im kinda new

 

i would suggest that you car makes just as much power as before, you just don't realize it because it is delivered more smoothly than before. That kick in the pants was mostlikely your engine loosing power when bogging and then picking up again (violently) when it clears. Before my carb work i could snap my tires loose from a roll in 1 & 2 gear.

 

I thought it could have been that, but I timed it for what i normally do, it has gone down a lot, but i just went out and changed the air valve tension, and it helped SOOO much, now it doesn't take 2 seconds to start moving rofl

 

Hey Five kid, I keep adjusting the screw 1/8th passed the 0 tension, in steps, and it seems to be that the screw is best at about 1 full turn, is that ok... i want to go more than 1 turn but don't want to mess up the screw.

 

Some carbs were delivered from the factory at 1-1/2 turns. Go ahead and keep adjusting it.

 

Is their a point at which i should not go passed? heh like don't go passed 2 turns? thanks again

 

Does that off idle flat spot go away when warm five7? Im wondering, my car seems short on low end, but I thought it may have been my manifold, and I have an open element.