Carburetors Carb discussion and questions. Upgrading your Third Gen's carburetor, swapping TBI to carburetor, or TPI to carburetor? Need LG4 or H.O. info? Post it here.

Why??

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Old Dec 18, 2002 | 05:48 PM
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TBI305Camaro's Avatar
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From: Barboursville, WV
Why??

Why does my car spit and sputter when its not fully warmed up? It even does it after its warm. If it idles for awhile then I get on it...spit sput spit...feels almost like backfiring. Then it will stop. But if I even try to drive the car when its cold it does it.

Normal for a carb?

Im about ready to switch back to fuel injection....
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Old Dec 18, 2002 | 09:43 PM
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Mine runs great all the time, hot or cold. Just need to tune the sucker It was down in the 30's today and the car fired right up and drove fine. Have you done anything to yours?
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Old Dec 18, 2002 | 09:45 PM
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From: Barboursville, WV
I havent messed with it. I bolted it onto the GM goodwrench brand new 350 and that was about it. Im not sure how or what to tune.

Could i actually be backfiring? Timing is fine but dont valves have to be readjusted on new motors after they break in or something?
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Old Dec 19, 2002 | 11:03 AM
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From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Do you have a choke? If so its not working properly.

It takes my car like 10 minutes to warm up before I can even think about driving it ...I dont have any choke though.
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Old Dec 21, 2002 | 12:43 AM
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From: Barboursville, WV
yeah I have an electric choke and Im almost certain its the problem. Its been fairly warm lately so its not hardly doing it BUT the choke is opening fully before the gauge gets off the 100 mark so Im pretty sure thats it.
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Old Dec 21, 2002 | 05:13 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The Holley choke does seem to come off fairly quick. You can rotate the thermostat housing to the "richer" direction to keep it on a little longer.

But, since you say it also has issues when warm, you may have more general tuning to do, such as main jets and power valve, and possibly accelerator pump.

Hydraulic valves shouldn't have to be readjusted after break in. Sounds more like tuning (ignition and carb) to me. If timing is set correctly, then you're probably looking at the above carb tuning.
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Old Dec 21, 2002 | 09:21 PM
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From: Sharonville OH
Car: 98 Z28 vert
Engine: LS1
Transmission: automagic
Axle/Gears: 2.73 - boo racing yay MPG
I may sound like an idiot but are you setting the choke before you turn over the motor? When ever I get into a carbed car I always tap the gas twice before turning the motor over. When I do the car starts fine when I don't the chugs before it starts. BTW the car is my bird spefically but also carbs in general.
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Old Dec 21, 2002 | 10:02 PM
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From: Barboursville, WV
Yeah yeah I get in and tab the gas a couple times to make sure the choke closes. Its not doing it when warm anymore. It never did it when fully warm just as it got near being warm. I actually took the aircleaner off and watched it open and it opened pretty quick. Stuck on me once if not more. But once for sure. Its running slightly rich (little bit of black smoke when revved). Isnt the popping a lean pop tho? For example still cold when the choke open = lean correct. Its been so damn warm this past week I havent touched the choke yet.
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