GoldenSwordZ28

I'm sure this has been asked before, but I couldn't ever get a clear answer on it... so I figure I'll just go ahead and ask

I have an 86 T/A with the stock LG4 in it... no real mods to speak of aside from removing the AC and putting on a Dual Snorkel air cleaner. Let me start by asking this: Have I screwed anything up by installing a '84 LG4 CCC onto my '86? There seems to be at least one difference on the '86 carb that I can't seem to find on the '84 (Both carbs are stock Q'jets, the '84 is off of a '84 Z28 with an LG4) which is an extra hose (???), no idea what it does, but it wasn't there on the '84 carb.

Second question, if I replace the CCC with a new Edelbrock or Holley carb that DOES NOT have CC, do I have to worry about my TC not locking up? Or do I have to worry about other unforseen problems?

And last but not least... My car tends to want to stall or bog at low RPM's, and after reading the technical article on the Code 32 I'm under the impression that it has somthing to do with the EGR valve, but I'm starting to wonder if it may have somthing to do with the one hose that is no longer on the carb. I was also forced to stick a screw (I know, I know) into one of the vacum hoses because I couldn't find out where it went, and without the screw in it, the car would die.

I hope you guys can help, I'm trying my damndest to do this whole mecahnic gig, but, its alot harder than I had origianlly anticipated My 84' was one year younger than me.... and I had always wanted to do this kinda stuff since I was a young kid playing with the toy cars on my parents rug... hehe, I've come along way from there and have finally ended up playing with the real things *** I love F-Body's.... hehehe

Adam

Damon

Hey, we've all been there. My first car- a 69 Pontiac Catalina was one year younger than me, too!

Forget about the extra vacuum hose fitting. Won't hurt anything. It's just for some feature that existed in 86 that didn't exist in 84. Plug and forget about it. The basic functioning of the CC-Qjet was unchanged from 84-86.

If you replace the CC-Qjet you will not get the converter to lock up. The ECM references the TPS sensor inside the carb (among other things) to determine whether to lock up the torque converter.

The idle problem you could write a book about and still not get it. You might want to tackle things one at a time. I'd post another thread and describe the problem and the circumstances about it in detail- when did it start? Were any changes made to the engine just prior to the problem starting? Does it do it hot or cold or both? Etc, etc. The more info the better.

GoldenSwordZ28

I appreciate your help Damon.... how can I make the converter still lock-up with a new carb? Is there some kind of wiring harness or somthing that I could use? Just wondering what has to be done to make the swap... I'll post tomorrow (Or later today? Man, its 2 already ) about the whole idle thing.

Thanks again man

Adam

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Personally, I think you're asking for more trouble than you'll be solving. The CC carb setup is more than adequate for a mild daily driver - it works great in my daily-driven setup, and is capable of handling an even larger engine.

Plug the extra port with a real vacuum plug (rubber cap, available from parts stores). Should solve the problem. Better in my mind than spending several hundred dollars for a system down-grade.

The CC system is very good when it is properly configured. You will certainly get worse fuel economy with a non-CC carb.

Fix what you've got.

Cronic3rd

Not to mention a non CC carb won't work. You have to change the distrobutior too.

88IROC350TPI

You can buy a switch from summit or jegs that allows you to lock up your converter. I never bothered buying one because I didn't notice a gas milage decrease on the highway at all when I converted from TPI to carb. Its really not going to hurt anything if you don't ever lock it up.

GoldenSwordZ28

Don't you NEED the tourque converter to lock up? And I'd need a new distro as well? Hmmm, well, its def not worth it at the moment.

Oh and Five7kid, the carb I have on there now is MISSING a port, one of the hoses broke off that is near the base of the carb and looks like it branches out into the left area of the engine bay... I have no idea where this one goes, but if I don't stick a screw in the broken bit of hose the car will stall. I also have some weird stall issues with the car (Where if I gun it, or even try to accelerate at a decent rate, like to pull out into traffic, the car will bog, and want to stall out on me) It gets better as it gets warmed up, but theres still a lack of power throughout the range of driving it. I haven't been able to figure this out for the life of me.... I thought it may have been EGR related, but I'm not sure, because I only just read about the EGR, and I'm still not really sure what it is or where it is.

Adam

GoldenSwordZ28

Heres a pic of the hose I'm talkin about.

And upon further experimentation, I actually get better performance with the hose un-plugged, just sometimes I get eradic idle or it seems like it wants to stall, esp. if its a cold start or what not. I get better acceleration, and I can feel actual torque with the screw removed from blocking the hose...... Man I'm confused. Hopefully you guys'll know what this is.

My colorfully commented pic. (If you want any other pics of the carb or engine or whatever that might help just let me know, I've got a digital camera, so it only take a second to snap a shot and upload it)

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

From your original description, I thought you should be missing a port, not have an extra one. But, Damon usually knows what he's talking about, I'm away from my car and all documents until this evening, so I didn't question him.

Several months ago, some vacuum diagrams were posted on the carb forum. Try doing a search and see if you can find it. I thought I had saved the pictures to my HD, but can't locate anything.

Does your car still have the vacuum diagram under the hood? It'll show location and routing for all the ports, vacuum lines, and vacuum components (including EGR).

As for needing or not needing the TCC lockup, I drove mine for almost 2 years without. People on the tranny forum said, "You're going to burn out your 3-4 clutch pack." A guy at a local tranny shop told me, "You'll burn out your 3-4 clutch pack in no time." Yeah, right, I thought, it's working fine. Then, when I did my mods, I discovered the tranny won't shift from 2-3 at WOT - the cause? A worn out 3-4 clutch pack.

Get the TCC lockup to work, if you like your tranny.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Is your PCV valve hooked up?

GoldenSwordZ28

Yeah, theres a plastic T peice that comes out of the port RIGHT there.... one side goes to the PCV, and the other goes to... well... nothing.

I checked out my friends 83 berlinetta a few mins ago and noticed that the side that isn't hooked up to anything was going to all those little tiny plastic hoses that go into the AIR system or somthing. So, I found a loose hose and it happened to be just the right size to fit inside that big hose. And after I did that, it seemed to run fine.... idle was fixed and all.

But, I'd still like an explination as to what the hell that was.

Adam

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The vacuum lines go to the A.I.R. diverter valve. When cold, the A.I.R. flow is routed to the exhaust manifolds. When the ECM goes into closed loop control, it commands the diverter to send the flow to the cat.

It's possible that you were confusing the O2 sensor with the line disconnected because the default diverter position (I think) is to the manifolds. The extra air in the manifolds would lead to an oxygen-rich O2 indication, which the ECM would enrichen to compensate (even though it didn't actually exist), and the leak helped to re-compensate for that.

Hope it's doing it's thing for you now.