I need to buy a new carb for my car and I need opinions on what to buy.The car is going to see mostly track time but I plan on putting at least 500 miles on it a year on the street.I'm leaning toward a Holley 750 HP.Tell me what you guys think.
355 chevy,forged flat tops,Victor Jr.intake,Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads,Comp Extreme Energy 284 cam 507/510 lift 2300-6500rpm range not sure of duration,Hooker long tube super comps,MSD wires,distributer,6al ignition.Need any more info just ask.

 

Auto tranny?

At least 3000 stall converter, and I assume you meant "Holley 750 DP".

Yup, go for it!

 

Yes the car has a turbo 350,TCI 3400-3800 stall,full manual valve body.Holley HP Series 750,basically a tricked out 750 dbl. pmpr.

 

Wow, we have a pretty close setup.

First off I have:

357 SBC
Forged Flat Tops
Performer RPM 64cc
Victor Jr.
CompCam XE284 ( 240/246 @.050 )
Crane Rollers
Holley Mechnical Fuel Pump /Keith Dorton HV
MSD Pro billit distributor, MSD-6AL, Blaster 2, 8.5 Wires
TH-350 w/2400rpm stall / TransGo Full manual conversion

I basicly just jumped into the world of the Holley, and infact I didn't realy have $600 to get the HP ( Road racing requires cash-focus on suspension ), but I would of

Instead I dished out close to 600 bucks for a 830cfm Holley-4150 #9381 and all the goodys, like fuel bars, jet kits etc...

The Edelbrock 750 served it's purpose to test and tune, I now need to move up to a more tuneable not to mension more modular carburator.

You'll be fine with a 750 DP, but you might need a 50cc on the secondaries if it doesn't already come with one...
That was my lastest mod, and it cleared up a bog when going into fast secondary opening...

If you need any tuning tips, I've been there done that on this setup!!!


Ron

 

Our combos are more a like than you know.I'm useing the same rocker arms same wires I'm useing a blaster 3 coil and a Barry Grant Mech. fuel pump.This is the second time I've had her together.The first time the only non aftermarket parts I used the rods came back to bite me on the ***.A rod broke and wasted my shortblock.This time It's got forged everything with ARP bolts thru out.When it was together the first time I ran 12.80's but that was with the lame 277's in the rear and BAD traction problems.With gears and traction I think I could see high 11's.and once I get the
juice hooked up who knows.Once I get the bugs out of the drivetrain I too need to consentrate on the suspension.I think I'm going to use South Side Machines Lift bar setup and either a 12 bolt or a ford 9 in. rear.I too used a Edelbrock 750 and it's OK for street duty but I've always had better luck with Holleys. Bill

 

Dang - 12.8's with granny gears!!!

I knew this was a fast setup, just by the seat of pants feel.

Yea, mine started with 2.93 in the rear, and over the summer I dropped in 3.42's - and boy what a difference.
If I was dragging I would seriously consider a 12 bolt, since you have a very high stall speed, your going to rip the crap out of that 10 bolt in short order.
Any time I'm out testing I usually make rolling starts to keep from killing my 10 bolt even though I replaced everything in the rear, & slapped on a support cover.

Believe it or not, my short block is a two bolt setup, but I did drop in some LT-1 rods & molly rod bolts. I paid very close attention to the balance with a fluid dampr, and took the setup to a crank specialist. ( 'five7kid' you probably knows the place? It's over in Denver off of Federal)

The biggest problem I have with the carb, in fact both carbs is a small part throttle lean stop. It's probably aggravated by the fact I live at 6300 feet. From what I've read It deals with the idle transfer & main circuit. It's sort of a catch 22, since there’s not a enough vacuum to keep the idle circuit running, & not enough air velocity to activate the main circuit , but I'm hard at work to find a solution. BTW: mine pulls only 6.5" of vacuum up here


-Lets see the only mishaps would be a leaky Edelbrock pump which killed my top end - replaced
-Wrong cam in the beginning. Was supposed to be a RPM Cam, but turned out to be an unknown crate motor cam. I became a believer in degreeing cams - replaced with XE284
-Belts throwing at 6K - replaced with March serpentine pulleys
-Had a rocker come lose - torque down / considering stud girdle, if not just to keep the rockers from coming lose again.
-leaky front pan - It's not to bad
-leaky trans - OMG, I looking at a Jegs pan as I type. Was testing yesterday, and I had a trail of oil follow me into the garage.

Ron

 

I got the 12.80's with a set of lakewood traction action lift bars bolted on and I thought my rear was going to fly out when I lanched it.
I've got a 9 bolt and I think if I had a ten bolt I would of destroyed
it by now.I really need to get subframe connectors and my suspension set up before I tear something up.Something else I too am useing a Fluiddamper.What year,body style is your set up in? Me 89 Iroc,was 350 tpi car.Have you ever tried makeing a fuel cell work in a third gen F-Body,and be track legal,What A Pain In The A$$. Bill

 

I'm glad you brought up the fuel cell debacle... Sounds like you went though this, if so what size did you cram up in there.
Currently I was looking at doing an RCI 22 gallon with the metal case around the bladder. Probably a modified circle track setup?
I also was going to run #8 hard line from the cell to the engine system.
Ohhh I've been putting this off for so long! I guess it has to be done sooner or later. I better get some extra welding wire before I start !!!

My project car is an '82 Firebird TA. I guess this project started over three years ago. Mortgage payments kind of put a cap on my monthy spending, none the less the UPS guy knows my first name

Work in progress!!!

Ron

 

I'm useing a Jaz 16 gallon,foam filled with sender fuel cell.It's mounted in the stock location with a hole cut through the rear floor area with a home made door covering it concealing my filler cap.Eventually I want to mount a regular fuel door over it like thats on the outside quarter of the car. I currently have #6 braided hose ran but I think I'm going with #8 this time around since juice is in the car's future.I have pics of my car but they're to big to post here,if you'll give me you're e-mail I can send them to ya. Bill

 

Yea, I would love to see those photo's...
ronterry@ronterry.com

Yea, #8 is a very safe size with room to grow... I've read though, that hard line from the rear to the front is undesirable cause of the drag induced from the rubber.
Probably a short length of braided from the tank to the hard line for flexablity, and run the hard line right to the filter, in which I have an Edelbrock #8 filter mounted near the radiator overflow.
From that point all braided

I love those high flow Holley filters with the replacment paper filters??? have you seen or dealt with these?

I swear I never stop ungrading!!!!!!! and I havn't even put it on a track yet

It's good to hear that one of those cells fits up in there, I'm more worried about the width (front to rear) size. I think the 22 gallon is only 4" taller?

Ron

 

Oh BTW: My Jegs tranny pan will be here on Monday Not a bad price at 65 bucks...

 

I've got #6 Aeroquip braided running to a Earles filter( which I think is simular to the Holley filter you're you're referring to) going to my barry Grant Mec. fuel pump then from there to my Edelbrock fuel pressure regualter then to the carb.I know what you mean about upgradeing I had close to $6000 in my car before I ever heard it run.The pics are on the way. Bill

 

Cool I'll be looking for them.

BTW: above, I meant Hard Line is more desirable over rubber hose on long legths.

Yeap, that's about how mine is routed.. -tank-filter-pump-regulator-carb...

I started out buying Russel, but since I got a Russel fitting with no freaking threads it showed me there quality control...I even emailed them a picture of the fitting I mean they anodized it with no threads
I now only buy Aeroquip hose, and fittings...

On the SFC's I was looking at the Jegs setup. I heard they work well. Maybe the bolt on's, and then weld them once there in. $179
..and the Torque Arm, I have on my marker board is a Spohn Adjustable running about $450 bucks

Ron

 

One of these eh?

Damn, freakin mess under there... got the oil leaks stopped now a days lol.

 

I bet with that torque arm setup duals would be a lot easier.

 

Saw your photos Bill, and thats one nice ride. I always wanted an IROC! Man I remember when I was like 18, and I was treated to a test ride in a brand new '87. The sales guy didn't know I didn't have a pot pee in

I might get one in couple of years!!! What the heck, you only live once.

Hey, whats you gonna do on the carb selection?

Ron

 

I'm going to try a Holley 750 dbl. pmpr. with a Proform body and it's going to have most the same features as a 750 HP except the 4 corner idol and thats easy to add on later.If all go's right then later I may move up to a 750 HP or a Race Demon.
Thanks this is my second Iroc. I some day would like to build a 87-89 GTA with a Pontiac 455 under the hood.

 

Ha ha, big blocks!!! Yeap, I'm going to have a long term project involving my '81 Z-28 and a GM502. This is by far going to be the most expensive block I'm ever touched, but I think it can be done over the long term. Hoping to have it completed for her 25th birthday & classic classification in 2006
Best of luck with that Pontiac 455. I had a cousin with a 2nd gen 455 - Loads of torque...

BTW: That should work out pretty good with the Pro-Form body.





Ron