If you've ever gotten all mixed up with your rich and lean stop adjustements on a cc-Qjet and didn't know how to get back to "sanity" here's how:

Set the lean stop FIRST. Tighten it down until it bottoms and then back it off 4 full turns.

If the carb is disassembled on a bench you'll want to put the airhorn back on with the gasket and tighten down the airhorn screws to do the rich stop adjustment.

With the airhorn on, remove the Idle Air Bypass valve (IAB) temporarily. Get a Phillips screwdriver with a fairly long, thin shank and stick it down in the IAB hole until it touches the top of the mixture control solenoid arm inside the carb. Press it down lightly and you'll feel the tension spring on the MC solenoid arm compress down and then it'll bottom out against the lean stop. Lean the screwdriver back until it touches the back of the IAB "tower," while still holding light presure against the spring. Take a small-tipped magic marker and make a line on the screwdriver where it lines up with the top of the tower.

Now let the screwdriver back up against the tension of the MC spring and make another line with the marker in the same way.

Take the screwdriver out and measure the distance between the 2 lines. It should be exactly 1/8 inch (.125"). If it's more than that you'll need to screw the rich stop down (clockwise) until you get the distance between the 2 lines down to exactly 1/8". If it's less than 1/8" to start with you need to back off the rich stop adjustement (counter-clockwise) until it opens up to exactly 1/8". SHouldn' take more than 2-3 rounds of adjusting and measuring to dial it in.

Done. Pretty easy, huh? Obviously, the key is knowing that the total travel of the MC solenoid from rich stop to lean stop should always be 1/8". Then all you need is a "sane" starting point and a way to measure the travel and you're home free. This works for all cc-QJets regardless of application (even computer controlled DualJet 2bbls that are basically a QJet with no secondaries).

 

Seems to me like the gauge kit would be a lot easier. You at least wouldn't have to pull the IAB valve, and you'd also have the gauge to set the IAB at the right starting point. Costs about $12 at NAPA, Item#BK 7001134

 

Not everyone has the gague kit on a Sunday with the carb laying in pieces on their bench and with the parts store closed. Any many will never buy it regardless.

I personally don't own it and I've worked on QJets for 20 years. Always set them using the above method.

 

I'm not trying to undermine your experience or knowledge, just sharing some info. It's a matter of personal preference, and now anyone reading this thread can do it either with or without gauges.

 

Of what significance is the 1/8 of an inch? Why can't it be more or less? And how do you know that this benchtop type adjustment is appropriate for your application?

 

Anybody know? This is my biggest gripe with the CCC carburetor. The adjustments seem like black magic to me. FI guys see exactly what their doing on their computer. Mechanical carb guys know exactly what their doing, bigger jets give more fuel, bigger metering rods give less. This MCS travel thing doesn't make any sense to me.

 

The MC is just constantly adjusting the mixture by tapping up and down the plunger in the solenoid. Who knows why it taps and doesnt just gradually open or close. Personally, mine doesnt work, and i run with it disconnected for now. I think it just went bad and its $40 for a new one. Haha, i adjusted the screws anyway even though it wont do any good unplugged.

If anyone can help me save my MC solenoid without buying a new one please tell me how!

Thanks