Need help installing my new carb!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Huntington, West Virginia
Car: 1985 Camaro Z/28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: One-Wheel-WOnder 3.08
Need help installing my new carb!
Ok, I just bought a Carter AFB 650 cfm w/e-choke for what I thought was a pretty sweet deal($236). I'm getting ready to put it on my z28 with all stoke manifold and everything. This carb was made for GM's, and says it follows the standard Holley bolt pattern.
1.) Will this carb bolt straight onto my intake manifold?
2.) Will I have to re-route my fuel line?
3.) What do I do with the old wires from my q-jet? Do I just leave them to sit there?
thanks
85 Z28 305 HO w/ new carter afb 650 cfm, aftermarket muffler, getted cat
1.) Will this carb bolt straight onto my intake manifold?
2.) Will I have to re-route my fuel line?
3.) What do I do with the old wires from my q-jet? Do I just leave them to sit there?
thanks
85 Z28 305 HO w/ new carter afb 650 cfm, aftermarket muffler, getted cat
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You've bitten off more than you think.
1) No, it won't bolt to your stock manifold. "Stock Holley" is square bore, "stock factory" is spread bore. You need an adapter or an aftermarket manifold that accepts the square bore pattern. Most street replacement manifolds like Edelbrock Performer, Weiand Action+, and GMPP like the ZZ4 accomodate either.
2) Most likely you'll have to modify the fuel line to get it to line up to the AFB.
3) Doing this eliminates all practical control functions for the ECM. Seperate out the wires you still need (ignition power, tach, electric choke, gage inputs, alternator, etc.), remove the fender liner from the passenger side, disconnect the ECM harness, and remove it. You shouldn't have to cut any wires to do this.
Things you didn't consider:
A) You'll need a non-computer controlled distributor as well. The most common route is a vacuum/mechanical advance HEI distributor, either used factory or aftermarket replacement. The Summit or Proform HEI's are pretty good and fairly low-priced.
B) You'll need some means to lock up the torque converter clutch, since that function used to be provided by the ECM - it won't do it without the input signals from the carb and distributor.
My personal opinion: You just wasted in the neighborhood of $600 (more or less, depending upon how you address 1, A, & B). Is there any particular reason you think you needed a new carb? The factory computer-controlled q-jet is a great street/performance piece, and unless you have a race-dedicated car (and I doubt that's the case with a 305), you'll do worse in any choice you make replacing it. If your carb needs work, spend you time & money fixing it. Your ignition is probably weak, so spend a little coin on an aftermarket coil & module for it.
For 3rd gens, the carb isn't what slows the car down. In your case, the HO is pretty decent as it is. Improving the exhaust and cam will improve power. Replacing the carb will not improve power, and will reduce fuel economy.
1) No, it won't bolt to your stock manifold. "Stock Holley" is square bore, "stock factory" is spread bore. You need an adapter or an aftermarket manifold that accepts the square bore pattern. Most street replacement manifolds like Edelbrock Performer, Weiand Action+, and GMPP like the ZZ4 accomodate either.
2) Most likely you'll have to modify the fuel line to get it to line up to the AFB.
3) Doing this eliminates all practical control functions for the ECM. Seperate out the wires you still need (ignition power, tach, electric choke, gage inputs, alternator, etc.), remove the fender liner from the passenger side, disconnect the ECM harness, and remove it. You shouldn't have to cut any wires to do this.
Things you didn't consider:
A) You'll need a non-computer controlled distributor as well. The most common route is a vacuum/mechanical advance HEI distributor, either used factory or aftermarket replacement. The Summit or Proform HEI's are pretty good and fairly low-priced.
B) You'll need some means to lock up the torque converter clutch, since that function used to be provided by the ECM - it won't do it without the input signals from the carb and distributor.
My personal opinion: You just wasted in the neighborhood of $600 (more or less, depending upon how you address 1, A, & B). Is there any particular reason you think you needed a new carb? The factory computer-controlled q-jet is a great street/performance piece, and unless you have a race-dedicated car (and I doubt that's the case with a 305), you'll do worse in any choice you make replacing it. If your carb needs work, spend you time & money fixing it. Your ignition is probably weak, so spend a little coin on an aftermarket coil & module for it.
For 3rd gens, the carb isn't what slows the car down. In your case, the HO is pretty decent as it is. Improving the exhaust and cam will improve power. Replacing the carb will not improve power, and will reduce fuel economy.
Last edited by five7kid; Jan 2, 2004 at 02:06 PM.
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