I am looking for advice on this swap. I am currently running TBI on this motor, and it's just not cutting it... Feels great down low, then CHOKE!!! I would like input from you guys on a combination that has worked for you... Intake, Carb and AFPR, and any tips or tricks on this swap. This is a 383 motor, with the following specs: cam 282 intake/282 exhaust Duration at .050 in. cam lift 224 intake/224 exhaust, Gross valve lift: .465 in. intake/.465 in. exhaust, Lobe separation: 114 degrees, Stock L98 Heads, Ultimate TBI mods, TBI Riser, Injector Spacer, Edlebrock Performer TBI Intake, custom midlength headers, custom Y pipe, 3" flowmaster exhaust w/ Cutout, 3.42 Posi Rear end, open element, !Smog Pump, MSD ignition, 180* T-Stat, Stall Converter (not sure what, feels like 1800 or so), Shift Kit.

...I have read the tech article, and was wondering if anyone can give me some more details regarding things like gauges, climate control, etc... can you really chunk the computer and still have everything functional?

...I'm seriously considering this... I have TBI, and my options are obviously TPI or Carb, and with a 383 bottom end and an agressive cam, I'm thinking Carb'ed makes some sence for me. Thanks guys!

what year is your car? if it is 89 or newer you are going to have to keep the emc in, in order for your fuel pump to turn on and to be albe to turn the motor over. IF you would like you can go with an after market fuel pump or you can just buy a fpr for the pump that you already have in your car and turn the fuel presure down. Then you can wire up something so that you can start your car. but if you leave your ecm your ses light will stay on. But it all comes down to what you are willing to do and how much you want to hack away at your car.

what i did to my car was wire up a kill swicth to my starter relay so that you will not need the ecm and have my fuel pump relay wired up so that it will turn on when I turn the ingnition on.

I certainly don't mind leaving the computer in... I just want the gauges and other accessories to work... SES light is no concern as it's been deactivated anyways...

It's a 1991 RS.

Just unplug the stuff you dont/wont need. I would just run a AFPR and govern fuel pressure. What ignition system do you have? you will want a non-cc HEI. MSD makes good HEI's. But i guess its all a matter of preference. Ive run Accel, Malllory, and MSD. no complaints with any. Obviously a good carb, leave that for last. RPM AirGaps are proven performers concerning intakes. Weiand Stealths are also decent. Define "Aggressive" cam. I am running a cam that has 255°/262° duration @ .050 with .575/.575 lift with 1.5 rockers, ground on a 114 LSA. Its also a solid roller. Whatever cam you chose, whatever dizzy you pick, be ready for some tuning.

Ok... Thanks!

I'm thinking of going with the Mallory AFPR, Wieland Stealth and a Holley VS 750...

ok, im in the middle of swappin in a carbed motor and want to get rid of the computer completelly or as much as i can, tehre is 3 connections under the dash that lead sumwhere else inside the dash and some wires go into the computer and then into the engine compartment, and some just go straight there, what are these wires and do i need them, i want as little wires as possible, i have took ac off, emissions, and all the cruise control and evac canister stuff off, so what do i do with those wires, what do they do with tehmselvesl, so i need them, thanx

I did this conversion in my 91.

The fuel pump system runs off the back up system - you need to leave in the stock OP sender and plugs.

With a TBI car, its a much lower fp pump, allowing you to be able to run a regulator to lower the pressure to the carb, best part is, it feeds my 430hp motor with out even so much as a hiccup off the stock 81k pump.

as far as extra wires and computer stuff, the sensors that i no longer used, and inhjector wiring and such was just clipped, taped and tucked backinto the stock loom to make things neatened up.

here's an enghine bay pic, ignor the mess please

http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w...newengbay1.jpg

btw, i'm moving my msd box inside the car...

any other questions feel free to ask me, it was really a pretty damn simple swap.

i took teh whole comp out, and i dont seem to need anythng from it, besides wiring up the pump and teh tranny lockup

well im going to do a swap to but not on the 305 im buying a brand new 350 crate motor from jegs that comes ready to run and just drop it in i know u have to get a torque converter lockup switch already got the b&m switch and most of my stock wiring is cut already due to no emisions and canister or cruise control so i got all the wires not when u do the swap can u get tps sensor maf ,mat,injectors wiring,distributors (im getting msd hei pro billet),but wat do u do with the rest my car is a 89 and im leaving the a/c on so how will the a/c know to start on ?so thats why im leaving my ecm and organize everything .will all the gauges still work if wired back like oil pressure, tach,fuel level?

tach, speedometer (if still hooked to your 700r4), fuel guage, oil pressure will all still work without the computer. I don't even have a computer in mine anymore, also don't have the wiring harness at all either. I just had to rewire the fuel pump, and fan (had to get a temp switch kit, no biggy) and everything looks just great and dandy. Tuning is gonna be fun.....


cheers ya'll

how did ya wire up your fuel pump....

dont need to- the pump has a back up system incase the ecm goes bad, where it runs the pump as long as there is an op signal... i had to do nothing except make sure the sender was hooked up.


A/C will work fine, thats part of the chassis harness, not the ecm...

if you leave the computer it'll be fine. I gutted mine

if you want to rewire it without the comp, get a relay, and a wiring diagram, and follow the wires on your fuel pump relay (stock) and transfer those over to your new relay, then just wire an ON wire (being the one that turns on the relay) to a power on post in the Fuse panel

cheers!

Don't forget in a 91 car which i think you said you had, the grey wire is the power to the pump!

So as long as i have a oil pressure signal comming from the motor i will have a running fuel pump,

Its an 87 IROC Z28, i took out the comp and the harness and all the realays off the fire wall....

ok yah you shouldn't have any problems. I THINK (don't quote me on this that the wire for the pump is tan on that year. Once again, im not positive on that. Your guages (all of em) are run off of just internal car power, and sending units, and none of it is tied into your ECM. Your fan you'll have to rewire as well, unless you've already taken care of that. If you have the old relay (for the fuel pump) still you can look at which wires are which and the colors that they are, and then you can put a new relay in. Just get one from Radio shack.

cheers dood, hope ya get it done!

whats the use of the relay if there is no ecm to plug it into, and even if i make it hot by hot wiring the relay, how does that get any power to the pump...huh, me confused, brake it down for me man...

ok you'll run a SWITCHED power source (12V) from a source on your fuse panel. The ign post will work. run that through to the firewall on the switch side of your Relay. On the POWER in(12V) of the relay, run that to he battery. on the power out run that to the wire for your pump. So you have power in from battery, that gives the relay the power to work. You have a power out which goes to the pump (when the switch is turned on) then the switch power from your fuse panel.

oh and of course the ground.

You should have instructions included with relays telling you what post does what.

cheers dood