I just aquired an edlebrock performer carb and a performer rpm manifold from a buddy of mine, and would like to swap it onto my already carbed 305. is there anything I need to know or lookout for in doing this? any input is greatly appreciated.

 

Dont expect a lot of gains.

 

Wrong move. If you said Holley 600 DP, I'd say you'd get a little improvement because you have a manual tranny. But, the Performer would be a downgrade over your current CC carb.

Oh, you'll need a vacuum/mechanical advance distributor if you do either the Performer or the Holley.

 

I just got these because my carb went, and they were only $300 (for the both) and only had been used for a couple of months. I figured it would be a cheap way to get my car running good again, and maybe gain some power from the POS I have now. I mean, I can barely spin the tires without dumping the clutch.

Now whats wrong with the distributer that I have?

 

The distributor in your car is a Computer Controlled model, you need the old style vacuum advance HEI. I think it was most vehicles 75-79. A good junkyard part really. While you are there, get a couple of sets of advance weights too. Not a bad place to get a few extra coils too, usually they dont charge much. On your way home get an advance curve kit. DONT USE THE WEIGHTS IN THE KIT! They suck. If you search you will find many threads detailing the advance curve, etc.

 

I'm not much of a fan of the junkyard HEI. Say you get one for $25 at the JY:

(I'll use Summit information for the prices)

It'll need new cap & rotor, $30 for the Summit brand which includes the wire retainer thing that always breaks. The Accel cap & rotor set w/o retainer is $22. Most likely the coil is weak (all GM production in-cap HEI coils were weak) - make that cap, rotor, coil, $50. Or, if you want a real coil like an MSD Blaster in-cap, make that $30 for cap & rotor, $40 for the coil. You can spend more.

Okay, that module is another GM weakest link. Some people don't like Accel, but I've never had any problem with them. $40 for the 4-pin. The GM hi-po version is $65. Others available.

That advance kit from which you'll use the springs but not the weights, $4.50. Or, since who knows what vacuum advance that junk yard dog you're stealing parts from had, an adjustable can that includes weights, $23.

Just to get going, you're looking at over a hundred bucks with that junk yard piece. For the better parts, $150.

Or, get a brand new Summit HEI distributor with all new parts, a good coil, decent advance, better bushings than the factory ever had, for $140 ($160 if you get the version with brass terminals).

 

I'm even less of a fan of removing a CC carb and distributor for a Performer.

 

You really cant include the cap and rotor into a distributor price, as they will be replaced over and over, but even if you do. I payed 20 bucks for a distributor, 16 dollars for a cap and rotor w/ brass inserts, had a good module, no problems with it (even if replaced at 50-60 bucks), wires 25 dollars at the parts store. Coil was good, but you could replace that for 30 bucks if you wanted too. All of this is pretty well spelled out by you above, BUT, you will not necessarily need a new coil or a new module. Whereas it is preferable to get a new unit, sometimes for some cars, it just isnt needed. Especially if one is putting it onto a stock vehicle.

 

BTW, I second that part about the performer for the CC Qjet, its not a very good idea.