I am getting ready to put my 406 together and ready for install week after next and had a couple questions. I am using a holley 4777 650 dbl pumper I had rebuilt by quick fuel. Also have lokar throttle bracket and cable and kickdown cable. Is there anything I may need? I read something about a bracket to adjust geometry between carb and 700r4? ALso my 87 convertible was originally an lg4 car so wondering how I should do fuel system? Still has in tank booster pump and also have a carter mechanical pump. Should I use a regulator? Not running any emisions stuff either. Any help is appreciated, also if you have an experience (problems or hints) that is related on this also let me know.

 

Leave the booster pump, but make sure it's running. It'll be a restriction if it's not. Don't know if you'll need a regulator or not- depends what kinda pressure that booster pump will produce by itself if you dead-head it (your Carter won't have a return line like a stock fuel pump). You'll want to actually measure your fuel pressure at idle to determine this. If it creeps up at idle then you should consider a return-style regulator or just putting a stock-style mechanical pump on the motor at hooking it up like the factory did to the stock return line.

Don't know if the Lokar bracket is going to put the TV cable in the same relationship to the throttle arm as the stock braket did to the original QJet carb's throttle arm. I WILL set your mind at ease about one thing- the TV/Kickdown cable stud location on a Holley carb's throttle arm is in an almost identical relationship to the throttle shaft as your original computer controlled QJet. I use a cheap Spectre throttle/TV cable bracket with my Holley carb with all-original cables and the geometry is just fine- tranny shifts just like stock and at the same shift points from light throttle through WOT. Obviously, I had to adjust the TV cable to the right length for proper adjustment, but the GEOMETRY of the cable/throttle arm is just fine.

 

that definitely helps. what do you think the best route is for the fuel system? will the booster pump work without the ecm? or will I have to rewire it?

 

If it's like the electric in-tank pump on a TBI or TPI fuel injected engine, you still need the ECM to turn it on (unless you rewire it to activate when the ignition is on, for example).

I'm not certain exactly what the ECM needs to see to run the pump, but I know it's gotta be one of these 2 things:

1. RPM signal from the "Tach" signal wire (the same wire that runs the tach in the dash cluster- NOT the multi-wire computer harness that runs the distributor, just the plain old single tach wire on the side of the distributor)

2. Oil pressure from the 2-wire sender screwed into the block, just above the oil filter.

I know it MUST be one of those 2 becuase those are the only things left attached to the computer in my wife's Camaro and my electric fuel pump still runs any time the engine is running (it was converted from TBI injection to carb, all computer hook ups were eliminated except for the 2 above, plus the VSS which just runs the speedometer).

 

not really sure either being an 87 I would imagine the oil sender has more to do with it than anything but could be tach? one thing that helps is mine is mech speedo. Thansk for info.

 

Carter makes a return-style pump, p/n M6626. The typical AC replacement will handle the job as well.

 

Do you mind posting a picture of this. Right now my TV cable has a wire end and I want to make it nicer by putting the proper cable

 

I can get the part number of the lokar cable if you would like it. I paid around $35 for it I think.

Also wanted to know if the factory 87 carb'd cars had a regulator? What is the pressure on the carter pump you posted five7? Thanks

 

what is safest way to rewire the booster pump in tank to turn on? I think I will go with the carter pump five7 mentioned. Any hints??