I have removed all the tpi wiring from the computer to engine bay from the drivers side of car. All the sensors, relays, everything related to tpi is gone. now what is the best and most inexpensive way to get fuel to my holley 750dp carb. the intake high pressure pump is still in the tank. I am debating on using this pump with the mallory 3 way reg. I am also debating on using an after market electric pump. who has done this and can you give me detailed description on the parts to order and use? If I use my stock pump how do I power it now do to the fact everything is gone for wiring. where does the fuel pump hot wire enter the engine bay or does it? It must. I will use a relay of some type to power it off the ignition circuit i just need to now the best place to pickup the hot wire. I dont want to use the stock relay it looks like it was doing more than the simple function of locking in the fuel pump when the key was on. this is what i want to do...I am open to any suggestions about this as i want to get the ball rolling on this project and i am stuck for now.....

 

rjt76,
Best and Most Inexpensive are two (2) entirely different paths.
You will certainly hear a number of different opinions on your questions.... here are my OPINIONS.

[IMPO] The best and most INEXPENSIVE method is to remove the tank (DON'T CUT A HOLE IN YOUR CAR) and remove the stock fuel pump. Replace it with a length of fuel line. Install a block-mounted fuel pump. You should be able to get a lifetime warranty stock mechanical fuel pump for little more than $12 at Autozone or any of the big retail outfits. You will need to grab the push rod and cover plate from a J.Yard donor motor because your TPI motor will not have one. Although the camshaft will have the proper lobe, and the block should be ready to accept the pump.

Removing the tank is a major pain in the butt but you should NEVER have to do it again....EVER! You will probably spend as much time figuring our how to wire your standard electrical fuel pump as you would spend removing the tank and hooking up the mechanical. If you purchase an aftermarket electrical pump you will still need to remove the tank to get the old pump out. In addition, an electric pump (regardless of variety) is always much more expensive than a mechanical, expect to pay about 4x as much. You should be able to make the changeover to a mechanical with one full days work and about $20.

If you are going to try and tap into the standard pump's wires you should find them running under the Driver's side rocker covers next to your seat. Depending on the year of your car you may be able to find them starting behind the rear passenger seat (in about the middle). they run under the carpet toward the driver's side and then up behind the kick panel toward the circuit breaker panel. Older cars like ours ('82) start behind in/around the rear storage compartment on the driver's side.

Sincerely,
Kurt & Derek

 

i just worry about vapor lock and fuel boiling problems with the mechanical pump..i will be using a gm crate 350 ho so the mechanical pump will work on this motor.

 

The factory fuel pump for carb applications included a return line just for that reason. You can get a parts store replacement pump for '82-'86 305 VIN G or H (and '87 for H, I believe) and it will have the return feature. Or, Carter makes a "Muscle Car Series" pump, p/n M6626 ($21.99 from Summit), that also includes the return. I ran an AC Delco pump for 6 years, and have been running the Carter since mid-summer this year without any vapor lock problems with either one. You can use the factory supply and return lines to hook up this pump.

 

Did you leave enough of the wiring and ECM in place to trigger the fuel pump relay? That's certainly the simplest way to go along with a Mallory 3-port regulator. The ECM really does the triggering of the fuel pump relay with the oil pressure sender (down on the block just above the oil filter) serveing as a backup of sorts to trigger that same fuel pump relay any time there's oil pressure, even if the ECM doesn't do it's job for some reason.

Obviously, you could figure out your own electrical system to trigger that relay whenever, say, the ignition is on, and accomplish basically the same thing.

It's more money than doing a mechanical fuel pump but a LOT less labor.

 

do i need a regulator with the carter pump m6626?

 

No.

 

got my pump m6626 today actually 2 of them came and i noticed one of them was actually made different. so i called the 1 800 ect # of the box to ask about the constuction of the 2 pumps. one had a spring under the lever and the other did not. well i was shocked to hear from their technical support that this pump is not recommended for anything other than a replacement pump. 2200rpm rated with the ability to do 4000rpm. anything above that is dangerous and will probably brake the spring under the pushrod lever. YIKES!!! i was like what? guys on thirdgen.org are using this pump and are o.k. with it. he then specifically stated send the pump back to summit and get somthing else. anything would be better than that pump for a (380hp flwheel) engine. the 6900 series was recommended by him. I talked to him about the return line and he said dont worry about it??? wtf i dont want vapor lock and i dont want broked lever springs floating around my engine at 5500rpm. I am going with the stock electrical with the mallory for now....confused

 

That is a little disturbing.

On the other hand, the person who answered the phone could be the one who is disturbed. . .

 

yeah no kidding. I talked with him for 10 mins itleast and kept referring back to the pump saying really i cant use either of these? reply: no dont use them! not for a performance application at all. he actually seemed knowledgeable to some degree refering to my stock fuel pump setup and what not. he specifically stated the carter pump will not function properly in a performance application. he recommended to do the mallory regulator or a performance fuel pump. electric or mechanical with electrical being of his choice. He also stated tell your buddys or friends whoever that he said all of this...

Ryan

 

I hate to be the one that flames a fire, but that guy is a little off IMO. More than once I have seen HiPo engines that turn 6K feeding off of a stock replacement mechanical pump. That 15 dollar wonder from your local auto parts discount store. Something tells me that the "tech" on the phone was just trying to push a more expensive product.

 

well thats just great. what do i do then? i dont think for a second you guys are trying to stear me wrong but he works as a tech for them and would not even for a second say that that was a good idea.

 

personally, if it were me I would use the pump. There are probably lots of other people here using the same pump. I have installed one of them too, if its the carter pump with a return. Most of those "techs" (term being used loosely) arent exactly the expert they would claim to be.

 

I've only been running mine for 6 months, but it hasn't skipped a beat in daily driving or at the track. Of course, neither did the stock replacement on the 305.

I did use a lightweight pushrod this time. Not sure how much difference that makes, but it can't hurt.

 

2200 RPM rated with the ability to do 4000? What kinda crap is that? Is he talking ENGINE RPM or CAM RPM (cam turns half of engine RPM)?? I've never heard of ANY mechanical fuel pump that is only good to 4000 engine RPM- not stock and certainly not a performance replacement.

I use Carter mechanical pumps all the time (the street performance pump @ 6 PSI, 110 GPH, no return). I absolutely guarantee they'll run forever on any street motor you could imagine. They are my go-to favorites when upgrading from stock.

 

Exactly. Those Salesmen on the phone are trained to get you to spend as much as possible.

 

22.00 for the regular carter pump. 60 for the performance one. I am at a loss so i sent the pump back. I dont think i would run the pump tech support said was not up to the task but thats just me...ryan