I cant seem to find anything on using a fuel pump that bolts to the block in this swap. It would save me from buying that 300 dollar intank carb pump but would I need a carb fuel tank out of an earlier thirdgen?

Why not just use a regulator with the TBI pump?

Because I heard from FAQ's and instructions that people have had trouble with them leaking. That sounds like a much better solution to me but the question that still remains in my mind is how do I plug my fuel injection return?

You don't plug the return, you use it with the regulator.

Sounds like its gonna save me $300 eh? Got a link to the right one? I'd rather not dig if you know exactly what part number or exactly what its called. Thanks a bunch btw!

mallory return style regulator part number: MAA-4309. Got mine from summit, its about 75 bucks now.

Good luck man, mine doesn't leak, and I've had no problems with it yet.

cheers

Another vote for the Mallory regulator. Mine has the same setup, the return line is in use and I've got an in-line pressure gauge between the reg and the carb. I just turn the car on, get out my allen wrenches and turn the regulator until the needle on the gauge sits where I want it. And there it stays. No leaks here either.

Do you need to adjust it once or everytime you start the car? Wait I dont get where the return goes in >.<

Once, hopefully. Though I'd check it afterwards to be sure the pump is still putting out the same pressure. (Could have a low battery the first time you adjust it, headlights could change it, etc... Not likely, but check anyway.)

Basically, the regulator has three ports and one adjustment screw. The fuel line goes into the regulator, the return line is pinched off by the screw that you adjust, and the remaining pressure that's not bled off into the return line is going to your carb, which is the line I suggest putting a gauge on.

Ah alright that makes sense. Could you suggest a gauge and distributor?

Autozone sells a cheap inline gauge, I think Mr Gasket is the brand, and it does the job just as well as the more expensive one I had in another vehicle with this type of setup. I think it's about $10. You can see my regulator and gauge in this picture on the driver's side: http://pittman.ws/Camaro/IM001319.JPG


As for the distributor, I worship the GM HEI. There is nothing I know of that's simpler to use or upgrade. One wire for power, one wire for tach. I suggest a boneyard unit. Freshen it up with a new cap, coil, rotor button. Check the condition of the module, vacuum diaphragm, springs, etc. and replace as neccessary. Parts store should be equipped to test your module; it's one of those things that either works or it doesn't. You should be able to put together perfectly respectable HEI setup for significantly under $100.

I used my TBI pump and a Summit Regulator, i just wired the pump on a switch. You cant let the pump just keep running though it will over pressure the carb and make it leak.

As long as the regulator is working and set right, you shouldn't have to worry about that. There's no reason for the pressure to the carb to ever go above 4.5-5.5 PSI. I don't know what kind of carb is being used here, but the documentation for my Edelbrock carb says it's not in danger of leaking until well over 6 PSI. I ran a Holley carb on a TBI fuel pump in my V8-swapped Bravada like this for over a year and it never leaked. Fuel pump was on all the time.

I'm not saying you're wrong - it certainly CAN happen, but not if your fuel pressure is consistent, as it should be if your regulator is any good. And I would not do this without a gauge.

I'm also running the Mallory 4309 FPR with in-tank TBI pump and no problems. I did have a problem with maintaining a constant pressure at first, but I disconnected the vacuum line to the FPR, and disconnected the 3rd fuel line to the evap canister and routed that under the front wheel well, and no problem after that - it stays set where I put it. I'm also using a guage between the FPR and carb, the Summit liquid filled guage - but I also have a $10 guage on another car that also works fine.

The return line connects to the bottom of the Mallory FPR, the four holes in the sides are inlets/outlets. I mounted mine on the fenderwell, under the bolt that holds the corner of the washer fluid bottle - I ran the bolt up from the bottom, through the fender, then a washer, the FPR, a tightened bolt, then another washer, the bottle, another washer, and another tightened bolt - killed 2 birds with one bolt.

On the distributor, I got a brand new Accell HEI unit from Autozone for $125 - came with extra springs/weights, the cap, and rotor, and it's working great.

Awsome so a $500 conversion just went down to $200... Now how about that throttle return spring can you just buy that or do you have to make one?

My ever thinking brain ran into another problem when i was running over my parts like in my head... If I go for the Mallory unit which i think I'm gonna, and scrap my ECM how does my fuel pump get powered?

You can wire in a relay to a keyed ignition sorce at the fuse box just find your wiring to the pump and wire it up.

Much love...

If you stay with the stock in-tank pump, nothing will change - the pump will get power from the same sources it did before - the relay and the oil pressure sending unit.

Your only other concern is Torque Converter lockup (if automatic). Once ECM is removed, you'll need to rig for TC lockup function. I installed a TCI kit ($80), which involves taking tranny pan off, installing new 4th gear solenoid and wiring, and connecting this to a vacuum source and a hot-in-run source.

Yeah I know I am going to have to do that I cannot aford to loose the 3mpg... Hope it came with detailed instructions...

And since the tranny has to be opened, great time for a shift kit install

BUT FIRST -

Do a search - it's possible that some are using the existing wiring and locking TC manually with the ALDL connector - I know it can be done with the ECM in place - but not sure if it can be done with it out. You could maybe leave the ECM in place (there's nothing left for it to control except tranny) and rig this switch through the ALDL connector, I'm just not sure. If search comes up empty, post on tranny board and see if anyone knows for sure.

Yeah shift kit needs to go in as does my hurst... IDK when the hell I'm gonna do all this... $80 for line converters, Carb check, Manifold check, $80 for lockup kit, $200 for alternator. Not too bad I just need to save the money and find the time...

Okay, I believe I can be of assistance with this whole 700R4 lockup control thing. A shift kit is nice, but you don't need it. You don't need the ECM or a wiring kit either. I crammed a V8 into an Olds Bravada a while back, went from a TBI 4.3 to a carbed 350, and faced all the same issues we're discussing here. (And then some - talk to me about cooling some time. )

Anyway, I snatched the ECM out, and here's how I dealt with the lockup on the 700R4.

There's an electrical connector on the transmission. Pins are labeled. Some have three, some have four, but the pins you're interested in are A, B, and D. Pin A goes to your lockup solenoid. Put +12 volts on that.

Now, you have two options. If you put ground to pin B, you'll get lockup in gears 2, 3, and 4. If you ground pin D, you'll get lockup in 4th only. That's how I did it in the Olds.

You're not done yet, though. There are times when you want that lockup circuit interrupted. Definitely when you brake, and optionally when you hit the gas. I'll talk about the brake first. If your car does NOT have cruise control, then replace your brake light switch on the pedal with one for a car that does have cruise. Hook your existing brake wiring up to the side of the switch that's normally open. Use the remaining two pins on the switch for interrupting your ground on either pin B or pin D, whichever you chose. If you can't do it that way, you could also get a 5-pin relay and connect it to the brake light circuit, so that when your brake lights come on it will energize the relay and break the connection between your ground and pin B or D.

Now for the gas. You might want the lockup to disengage when you give it a little throttle so you don't lug the engine. Interrupt the circuit using a vacuum switch. You can buy one through Summit, I think B&M makes one, but I opted for a cheaper solution that I was quite satisfied with. I used a vacuum switch from a Saab 900, like this one. Very simple to use this switch. It's closed when it has vacuum, and it opens with the vacuum drops, like when you hit the throttle. Interrupt the same wire that you connected to the brake switch, then go for a drive. You can feel the lockup engage and disengage when you're lightly accelerating in 4th and you give it a little brake with your left foot. If it does that, your circuit is working. Now adjust your vacuum switch by pulling off the blue cap. There's an allen screw inside. Loosen it, put the blue cap back on. You want the vacuum switch to cut out when you give it some throttle, but before the point of downshifting. If you do this right, it will almost feel like you've got two "passing gears."

If you want to get fancy with it, wire up a light on your dash that's connected to pin A and your interrupted ground wire. The light will come on when the converter is supposed to be locked up. You could also put in a switch that lets you choose whether to ground pin D and only lock in 4th, or B to lock in 2nd and 3rd too.

Pretty simple rig, costs next to nothing, and gives you total control over how your lockup behaves.

Now would this method give me an advantage over the simple kit because things like that scare me...
And if I were to do this would there be a wire at the ECM where the transmission plugs in? That way I dont have to do the wiring straight off the transmission.

Well, you don't have to open the trans to do this, it can be done very quick and cheap, and you can choose how you want it to operate. I probably made it sound less simple than it actually is. I just wanted you to see what options you have. The simplest way, which you could go outside and do right now in about 30 minutes, is this:

+12 to pin A
Ground to pin D
Interrupt it with the brake.

There are articles all over the net about this, some with wiring diagrams. Nothing at all to be scared of.