Cheap gains from stock air cleaner.
Cheap gains from stock air cleaner.
The stock 305 w/q-jet can see some very noticeable gains by doing a few cheap mods.
1st is the air cleaner. If smog is a concern, you should get a 2nd one from the boneyard for mod and save the stock one.
Find an air cleaner lid from an s10 truck. The lid is about 1.5" taller. Buy a K&N air filter That's tall enough to take advantage of the new hieght.
Remove the silencer ring. It's the metal cylinder inside the AC above the diameter of the carb. Also remove the plate that is mounted just inside the intake duct.
Next, hack off the thermac valve portion of the intake duct and plug the vacuum line. That valve is only used during warm-up and is horrible restriction of air flow.
Now run some 4" flex dryer tubing from the AC to the plastic snorkel. You might notice that the hood closes right in front of the snorkel.
What you can do is relocate or remove the smog can and cut a 4" hole below it. Run flexible dryer hose down and around to the grill next to the license plate. Attach a 2X4 flashing duct to the tube and mount the duct in place. Homemade RAM AIR.
I did these mods to my otherwise stock 84 Z when it still had an automatic trans. Before the mods, at WOT it would shift at about 3500 rev. After the mods it pulled past 4000 before shifting.
It's worth noting that with the increased air flow it's a good idea to replace the secondary rods and hanger in the q-jet to increase the fuel flow.
----------
I'll post a pic of mine if someone can tell me how.
1st is the air cleaner. If smog is a concern, you should get a 2nd one from the boneyard for mod and save the stock one.
Find an air cleaner lid from an s10 truck. The lid is about 1.5" taller. Buy a K&N air filter That's tall enough to take advantage of the new hieght.
Remove the silencer ring. It's the metal cylinder inside the AC above the diameter of the carb. Also remove the plate that is mounted just inside the intake duct.
Next, hack off the thermac valve portion of the intake duct and plug the vacuum line. That valve is only used during warm-up and is horrible restriction of air flow.
Now run some 4" flex dryer tubing from the AC to the plastic snorkel. You might notice that the hood closes right in front of the snorkel.
What you can do is relocate or remove the smog can and cut a 4" hole below it. Run flexible dryer hose down and around to the grill next to the license plate. Attach a 2X4 flashing duct to the tube and mount the duct in place. Homemade RAM AIR.
I did these mods to my otherwise stock 84 Z when it still had an automatic trans. Before the mods, at WOT it would shift at about 3500 rev. After the mods it pulled past 4000 before shifting.
It's worth noting that with the increased air flow it's a good idea to replace the secondary rods and hanger in the q-jet to increase the fuel flow.
----------
I'll post a pic of mine if someone can tell me how.
Last edited by thepreloader; Feb 11, 2007 at 04:48 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
After these mods, the next step is altering the q-jet. Again I'll suggest getting a 2nd one from the boneyard. With a dremel or die grinder, thin down the choke plate. After warm up it is only in the way. Also knife edge the throttle plates. Sharpen them from the edge back to the shaft leaving just a thin amount of the stock diameter.
Carefully grind away the bulky metal in the venturis.
After installing the carb, follow the instructions in the tech article about adjusting the q-jet. pay close attention to the secondary A/V tension. If it kicks in abruptly under WOT it is probably to loose.
Carefully grind away the bulky metal in the venturis.
After installing the carb, follow the instructions in the tech article about adjusting the q-jet. pay close attention to the secondary A/V tension. If it kicks in abruptly under WOT it is probably to loose.
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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From: Western Mass
Car: 1985 Camaro/89 Merkur XR4Ti
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all I did was flip the cover over, and made sure the filter was still sealed in, that gave me ALOT more horsepower over the stock system, I would say it shaves atleast .5 to 1 second of my 0-60.
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From: Adelaide, Australia.
Car: 1984 Trans-Am WS6
Engine: WAS: 5.0HO, SOON: ZZ383-425HP.
Transmission: 700R4 with shift kit
flip the cover over, what exactly do the Stock Dual Snorkel A/Cs look like?
I think I may have an aftermarket one.
I think I may have an aftermarket one.
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
The best air cleaner setup is the duel snorkel from the L69, because it can take in plenty of cool outside air, which helps power.
But... it's not for the faint of heart.
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
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That happens all too often in Savannah.
Some camaro with 24" rims and painted brown with a cocoa puffs logo on the side. There is like a cereal gang in savannah I swear.
I think if you just leave the hood open while you drive it will force more air into the engine bay like a huge scoop lol.
Some camaro with 24" rims and painted brown with a cocoa puffs logo on the side. There is like a cereal gang in savannah I swear.
I think if you just leave the hood open while you drive it will force more air into the engine bay like a huge scoop lol.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Some camaro with 24" rims and painted brown with a cocoa puffs logo on the side. There is like a cereal gang in savannah I swear.
I like putting a plate below the power bulge, and cutting a hole in that about the size of the air cleaner. Then throw on a 250 I6 air cleaner LID (roughly 2" smaller in diameter than our stock one), this way the air cleaner will screw down and rest on the air FILTER. Then you use a thick foam ring to seal the normal air cleaner to the hood. This way you're sealing the air cleaner to the power bulge. Cold, fresh, cowl hood, with less work. Assuming you have the power bulge hood.
Carefully grind away the bulky metal in the venturis
When you post, click Post reply on the left side, not the quick reply button on the right side. Then you can click "manage attachments", then browse to your picture, and click it, click attach, click ok, and go back to your post. Type it up and hit reply, the picture should be there. Give'r a shot.
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
"After these mods, the next step is altering the q-jet. Again I'll suggest getting a 2nd one from the boneyard. With a dremel or die grinder, thin down the choke plate. After warm up it is only in the way. Also knife edge the throttle plates. Sharpen them from the edge back to the shaft leaving just a thin amount of the stock diameter. Carefully grind away the bulky metal in the venturis."
Haven't seen this advice since the early '80s. Don't do it. Please. You're taking a large risk for nearly immeasurable gains.
Haven't seen this advice since the early '80s. Don't do it. Please. You're taking a large risk for nearly immeasurable gains.
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Aug 17, 2015 02:00 PM




Not to mention, it looks really cool too! 


