Right now for some reason my car idles at 2000 rpms... When i bought the car less than a year ago, My dad and i looked at the carb and noticed that it was tuned wrong. The choke never set primarily because it seemed like the choke and idle were reversed the last time someone tried to do a "tune up" or modify the idle. My dad and i had the idle around 1500 and i could set the choke RARELY.. the first time we messed with it and tried to get it back to the way it is supposed to be. The timing was adjusted as well the last time we adjusted the carb. My question is is it possible to return the carb back to what it was set originally? I dont know much about carbs but i know what it should idle at... not what its idling at now. My dad was a GM mechanic for years and i'm going to see if he can help me out a little more. Does anyone have a picture of what the stock vacum lines on an LG4 look like?? I would like to see a picture so i can get my car back to original working order. The previous owner really messed up the carb and the vacum lines... Any help would be great... i know i didnt provide much info.. but i dont know much about these carbs.. any help would be appreciated.

 

I don't have any pictures of a cc-qjet in stock form, but i'm sure someone does.

You'll want to get the car nice and warmed up, then set it in park and "loosen" the idle screw on the drivers side. Right below the throttle linkage.

https://webdisk.ucalgary.ca/~jmknopp..._html/carb.jpg

Roughly in the area of the orange arrow. Bring down to 750RPM or so. In drive it'll be a bit lower. Make sure your timing is ~6* with the EST plug unplugged.

Make sure your fast idle cam is DOWN when you're setting this. Ie, make sure it's fully off choke. Since it's warm, it should be, but in case the choke setting is messed up, make sure it's off.

See the orange arrow in this picture:
https://webdisk.ucalgary.ca/~jmknopp...ac%20port2.jpg
Make sure that triangle headed thing is down, like in the picture.

Your choke thermostat (black circular part), should be roughly in the same position as in my last picture there. The electrical blade connector should be parallel with the ground, roughly. You can loosen the screws that the yellow arrow points to, and adjust it by turning it CW or CCW. CCW will make it stay on choke longer, and go on to choke if it's not as cold out. More "aggressive" choke I guess, CW will lessen the chokes effect.

See where that gets you for now.

PS - The carb as pictured is a canadian model non-cc qjet. The stuff that I pointed to you is accurate, but it doesn't have the TPS and MCS, and vacuum lines are wacky. Don't follow those, just the choke stuff.

 

Thanks for the help but it seems like the car wants to die when the rpms get down to 750... it dies right away... I cant keep it running when the idle is that low even with the engine warm...

 

Then your timing is retarded. Pull the ESC and reset it to 6* or so. Then plug it back in and try to lower your idle speed. You may have a plug wire or two that's bad or something, but i'm guessing that's ignition related if you can't go down to a 750RPM hot idle.

 

one of the vacum intel/outlets on the bottom of the carb is broken off so i dont know if that has anything to do with it