Intake manifold recommendations?
#1
Intake manifold recommendations?
I need some intake manifold recommendations for my engine combo. I am running the Edlebrock Performer RPM at the time being. I was wondering if my combo might run faster with a single plane? If so what are your thoughts? I am on a tight budget right now as I just bought my first house.
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
#2
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Intake manifold recommendations?
I think you may gain a smidge of power going to a single plane (Vic Jr for example) but it's probably not worth the expense.
I remember reading an article in Hot Rod, or Chevy Power, or Car Craft, where they tested intake setups back to back on the dyno. They lost more low end power when swapping to the single plane, compared to what high end power they gained. Something like 25hp lost vs 11hp gained.
I remember reading an article in Hot Rod, or Chevy Power, or Car Craft, where they tested intake setups back to back on the dyno. They lost more low end power when swapping to the single plane, compared to what high end power they gained. Something like 25hp lost vs 11hp gained.
#3
Re: Intake manifold recommendations?
For the Performer RPM, the recommended use RPM wise is 2,500 to 6,500 or something to that aspect. I would assume that my car would be peaking in power at about 6,500 RPM? Causing the intake to be somewhat of a bottleneck if you will.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Intake manifold recommendations?
That 2500-6500 is a bit of a guess though. That is effected by many other things.
A single plane high rise will reduce the pulsations seen at the carb, letting you use a reasonable sized carb (you don't need a gigantic carb). So it might work better since you may be a tad undercarbed right now.
I'd get a carbide cutter for aluminum, and some sanding drums for your die grinder and do a bit of gasket matching. Also some work in the main plenum, maybe lower your dividing wall an inch or so? I'd do that before going to a new intake.
I just don't think you'd get $220 worth of power out of this upgrade. I think the (non-existant) $220 burning a hole in your pocket could find a better use.
Perhaps look into a carb spacer? You really need to be on a dyno with a few spacers hanging around to be sure of what works best though.
Generally an open spacer slows the fuel mix velocity, and 4 holes speed it up. If you've got fuel puddling in the intake then an open spacer eh?
I think in your case an open spacer might work best, along with lowering the divider wall to increase plenum volume - but right now that's a shot in the dark.
A single plane high rise will reduce the pulsations seen at the carb, letting you use a reasonable sized carb (you don't need a gigantic carb). So it might work better since you may be a tad undercarbed right now.
I'd get a carbide cutter for aluminum, and some sanding drums for your die grinder and do a bit of gasket matching. Also some work in the main plenum, maybe lower your dividing wall an inch or so? I'd do that before going to a new intake.
I just don't think you'd get $220 worth of power out of this upgrade. I think the (non-existant) $220 burning a hole in your pocket could find a better use.
Perhaps look into a carb spacer? You really need to be on a dyno with a few spacers hanging around to be sure of what works best though.
Generally an open spacer slows the fuel mix velocity, and 4 holes speed it up. If you've got fuel puddling in the intake then an open spacer eh?
I think in your case an open spacer might work best, along with lowering the divider wall to increase plenum volume - but right now that's a shot in the dark.
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